Polarion PH40 Annoyances?

adamlau

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 8, 2007
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Location
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Any design, or usage annoyances of the PH40 aside from the following:

1. Loose fitting filters may be apt to inadvertently dislodge
2. Rotary power switch may requires maintenace lubrication
3. Battery alignment feature burdens rapid pack changes
4. Transluscent plastic tailcap prone to breakage upon impact
5. Metal tailcap prevents viewing of battery status indicator
 
I can be fairly critical of lights and other high tech toys if they don't feel intuitive and logical to me in design and function. I can't say that the PH-40 falls under the nose of my scrutiny though. I'm very satisfied with it overall.

I personally haven't experience the filter issue because I don't have any yet.

I'm not sure if the possibility of rotary switch maintenance is really that big of a problem. I'll probably never have to do it...to be honest. I guess I wouldn't mind if the ring fit a little bit more tightly in its retainer groove but I don't have any real complaint with it.

As a competitive shooter, I like simple and quick mechanical operations and I haven't felt as though the battery pack was anything but that. As a matter of fact I've never even thought about it. I'm familiar with the line-up notches and everything but the battery always seems to fall right in with a tiny twist....hmm.
:thinking:

I didn't know that the semi-translucent tailcap was prone to breakage. Is that a fact or is this a speculation based on the fact that they offer an aluminum one? I just can't recall reading about any breakage issues.

I'm actually considering an aluminum tailcap just for the solid, machined look and feel. I'm not diving with the light or anything like that. I was just thinking about dressing it up a bit. It doesn't bother me that I can't see the LEDs because it's a calculated trade-off. The purpose of the aluminum is for ultimate durability and depth rating. For someone who needs or wants that feature, giving up the LEDs doesn't seem like a big deal to me.
Because my batteries are charged after use I don't tend to monitor the LEDs at start-up anyhow.

I'm not trying to be disagreeable at all. I just don't have any criticisms for the PH-40 other than the cost of accessories.
 
As stated on the telephone when you called me, the filters are quite secure when properly attached.

Some people do not add the final 1/16th" of a turn to lock them down.
Other than that, to date I have not had anybody give me negative feedback in this regard.

If folks are having problems, let me know.

The tailcap can break if the light is dropped directly on it. I have dropped my Polarion's numerous times on concrete from 3-4' and have yet to break the tailcap. Each time I cringed, but the picked up the light and kept on going.

That being said, I have replaced 2 customer tailcaps over a 2 year period since Polarion-USA's inception.

One looked like the customer dropped it directly on the cap and the inside of the recharge connection incurred damage. The light was perfectly functional.

One was due to the fact that the customer cross-threaded the tailcap upon installation.

Both were replaced at no cost to the customer.
 
Your support over the phone and the fact that there have been no actual criticisms regarding the PH40 is why I feel comfortable with Polarion. Not a single reason why not to own in any thread I have come across. Nice :thumbsup: .
 
Be disagreeable as I have no problems with disagreements! The PH50 will not be shipping for another three weeks via the GB, was curious of issues I may (or may not) encounter upon receipt of the light.

:) I guess what I meant was that I wasn't just answering your post with the opposite opinion just to be objectionable. I'm indeed very happy with the PH series in every regard.

It sounds like Ken has stated the "fix" with regards to the filters and it doesn't sound like the tailcap is fragile. I guess we can cross those two off the list.
 
Adamlau, I'm on the PH-50 Fenix-Store GB with you now. :whistle: Three weeks and counting..:shrug:
 
HIDSGT:

The PF40 I sent you for testing has no alignment grove in the body whatsoever, nor does the X1's.

The PH40/50 does and it might take all of 2 secs to index the battery. I am not sure what the fuss is to be honest.

To each his own!
 
Well, GreyEminence, you have certainly demonstrated with that post how it is possible to put a dampener on a perfectly good thread and bring it to a shuddering stop. However, I don't think your comment was either necessary, relevant or in good taste.

To get back on to the topic of PH40 annoyances and robustness: I returned a few days ago from a diving trip, during which I used my PH40 at depths down to 40 meters (~130 ft). The PH40 is stunningly bright, and superb in every way underwater.

As any diver will tell you, gear has to be TOUGH to survive a dive trip - things get banged about on a dive boat. I had no issues with the PH40 at all, other than it being TOO bright for some uses. The diffuser lens would have been very useful in some situations, and I intend to get one.
 
I am not sure what the fuss is to be honest.
No alignment groove = no fuss :) .

As any diver will tell you, gear has to be TOUGH to survive a dive trip...

That brings up another question: When snorkeling in shallow conditions near the sea floor, debris is often stirred up. Can this debris become embedded behind the diffuser underwater, adversely affecting beam signature and output? Or would a properly installed diffuser lens be fully sealed and waterproofed to the Polarion housing?
 
To get back on to the topic of PH40 annoyances and robustness: I returned a few days ago from a diving trip, during which I used my PH40 at depths down to 40 meters (~130 ft). The PH40 is stunningly bright, and superb in every way underwater.

As any diver will tell you, gear has to be TOUGH to survive a dive trip - things get banged about on a dive boat. I had no issues with the PH40 at all, other than it being TOO bright for some uses. The diffuser lens would have been very useful in some situations, and I intend to get one.

Cool to hear it will be suitable as a dive light. I don't do as much night diving as in the past, but I do like to walk the shallow reefs at low tide at night. :thumbsup:
Should blow my UK light cannon and SSC modded Barborlight away. :cool:
 
DM, thanks for sharing the diving experience with us. 130 feet is fairly serious depth for sport divers and it's really neat to hear about someone using your the way it was meant to be used, so to speak. You had mentioned that at times it was too bright. Do you carry a couple of other lights with you when you're down there? I have diving friends who use 5 or 6 different lights for different conditions. As you stated, I'll bet the PH series diffuser would be a great addition to your diving package.

One more question...do you ever take pictures when you're down there?

Thanks
 
I don't dive but, the fact that this light has that kind of waterproof abilities certainly makes this light that more desireable. Thanks for the observation and the sharing of the information.


Karl
 
@ adamlau - I doubt any debris would have any effect at all on the light, even if it could get between the lens and the diffuser. I would hope the diffuser is not actually sealed in place, as this would create an extra airspace between it and the lens, creating a potential pressure problem. I would prefer it if water could get in there.

Incidentally, to address one of your other concerns, I do not find the alignment groove on the battery a problem at all. You just place the battery in the light and rotate it until the groove locates. It takes maybe 3 seconds.

And the polycarbonate tailcap seems pretty darned solid to me – you'd have to give it a hell of a whack to break it. The Al tailcap would be nice to have, but I gather it doesn't have the charge status window, which is an extremely useful feature on the polycarbonate one.

@ NITEFISH - yes, the PH40 will make your Light Cannon look pretty feeble, and it will totally obliterate your Barbolight. I have a Light Cannon, and there is no contest. The PH40 is not much larger in size, either.

@ P36 – I do some technical diving, sometimes much deeper than 40m/130ft, but that was the deepest I went on this trip. I always carry at least 3 lights plus an emergency strobe. Sometimes you need light that isn't quite so bright for objects that are closer. Also, some marine creatures can be startled by bright light, and will go away, which you don't want. On this trip I did some experimenting with my Yellow Monster Dive Light, which was great fun and very interesting (I will be posting a follow-up thread about this soon – with pics).

But the PH40 rules underwater. Nothing else comes close. Except the PH50, I suppose…
 
The interface between the filters and the bezel in not air/water tight.

One another note, although the PH/PF's can go underwater and obviously are up to the task so far, they were never designed with this application in mind per se.

Polarion is releasing a Dive Dedicated light the U2.
It is built like a tank, 35-watt, 3400 lamp lumens, 100 meter rating.
Not sure when it will be available.

Tailcaps: One of the failure points at the deeper depths was the initial release composite tailcap. Apparently the aluminum tailcap allows you to take the light deeper.

Finally, Polarion has made a couple of changes to it's current composite tailcap.

The new one I saw has an metal sleeve for threading. I have experienced several times difficulty getting the tailcap off after using the light.

The heat/expansion difference between materials might have been culprit.
I also believe they have an even more robust/shatter resistant composite they are going to as well.

Again, not sure when we will start seeing the inline change, but it is coming.

Best to everybody.
 
@ P36 – I do some technical diving, sometimes much deeper than 40m/130ft, but that was the deepest I went on this trip. I always carry at least 3 lights plus an emergency strobe. Sometimes you need light that isn't quite so bright for objects that are closer. Also, some marine creatures can be startled by bright light, and will go away, which you don't want. On this trip I did some experimenting with my Yellow Monster Dive Light, which was great fun and very interesting (I will be posting a follow-up thread about this soon – with pics).

That's cool stuff DM. I'm glad that the Polarion works so well for you down there. I remember when you purchased the YMDL and I just barely missed out on purchasing it. It's better that you got it though. You actual use it. For me it would have just been a hot-wire of some type. I dig that light though.

Looking forward to pics too!

:popcorn:
 
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