Preon 2 to 1 neutral white issues/solution

cnp1234

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 21, 2010
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I recently ordered a couple of lights from 4sevens, one of them being the neutral white Preon 2. I also got a 1 aaa preon body as I wanted it to be as small as possible for edc. Long story short, this configuration didn't work due to either the depth of the pcb in the head being to deep or the length of the 1 aaa battery tube above the shoulder near the head being to short. I got in touch with someone at 4sevens and she pretty much told me that because it was a special run, they are all gonna be that way and I could either get a return on the 1 aaa body or trade the neutral white head for a regular cool white head. Well I really like the neutral white (first neutral flashlight) so I decided to hell with it, I'll void the warranty and just modify it. I'm probably gonna put a 10440 in it eventually anyway so I'm not loosing much (except maybe a light). What I did is I sanded down the head just enough for the 1 aaa tube to make contact with pcb. This created a sharp edge on the inside of the head that actually cut the o ring, so I knocked that down with some sand paper and replaced the oring. Everything works fine now, so hopefully if anyone else runs into this problem, they can just sand the head down a little. Oh and I guess I should say hi since it's my first post. Long time lurker and closet flashaholic.
 
Damn. I have a nw Preon 2 on the way along with the Preon 1 body also.

If it turns out like yours, maybe a spacer/washer under the head would to the trick? Seems to be a better alternative to sanding it down.
 
:welcome: I got the preon 2 neutral as well and while I don't have a preon 1 body to lego I do have an itp a3. The preon 2n head fits better than the original a3 head on the a3 body! I just carry both in their native state though. I just love the feel of the preon 2 in a cigar grip and it slips right into the front pocket. I've been EDC'ing since I got it.
 
[...] Long story short, this configuration didn't work due to either the depth of the pcb in the head being to deep or the length of the 1 aaa battery tube above the shoulder near the head being to short. [...]

Hard luck that you had to go through that. I can say that all of my preon heads (I have cool, neutral, and warm) work fine on all the preon bodies I have. The preon1 body came in a Preon Kit, so it's a pretty early run. I'm glad you got yours working.
 
I'm glad I got it working too. I thought I was losing my mind until I busted out the caliper and started measuring. I don't think the woman I spoke to from 4sevens even believed me. Anyway, having a 1 aaa flashlight that's this bright is perfect for me. Outside of having to do this little bit of sanding, I'm very pleased with this and the Quark that I ordered.

@ACRbling: I'm sure you could find some kind of spacer. The key is that the spacer would have to very closely match both the inner and outer diameter of the body tube. I suppose with button top batteries, the inner diameter has little more play. It was only 1/128 of an inch off from making contact so it'd be a pretty thin spacer if you even needed one.
 
Strange, I also got the NW Preon II and a Preon I body, and it works fine with Energizer L92s. Maybe it's because I have the clicky tailcap installed?
 
The issue was with the battery tube not making contact with the outer ring on the pcb in the head, so it wouldn't have mattered what tailcap was used. All I've got is clicky anyway. I'm convinced one of the pieces I've got is out of spec, just not sure which. It may be I just happened to get the one part that was goofed, but the woman I spoke to from 4sevens said the entire lot was probably the same so I figured I'd post in case anybody else had the same issue.
 
:welcome:
Thanks for posting. My Preon 1 body is in the mail. Have a warm Preon 2.
Did not know I can grind down an aluminum head with sandpaper. How long did it take.

I have an old Fenix L1P whose PCB has been pushed into the head to the point the battery tube no longer makes contact. Maybe I'll try sanding that head too.
 
It was a pretty quick job. Like I said before, it was only 1/128 of an inch away from contact and aluminum is pretty soft. I think it took maybe 5 minutes at the most. The trick is to use a nice flat surface and go in circles. And don't forget to knock down at least the inside edge so you don't lose an o ring like I did.
 
Strange.

I've got a neutral white Preon with a 1 AAA body that I carry on my keychain. It has worked perfectly without modification.
 
I received my neutral white Preon 2 along with a Preon 1 body in black today. Everything fit together nicely and is working fine.

Sadly the tint of the led isn't like my other neutral white xpg r4. It's actually white/slight purple.
 
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