pyrex in the SF 6P?

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davidefromitaly

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i have a new 6p and the lens is plastic-like, i don't know if this type of plastic is pyrex... but i have immediately changed with a mineral glass /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/buttrock.gif and the same thing in my TT 1L, i think this material can do better performance of any type of plastic, what do you think about?
 
The 6P has had a Pyrex lens for quite a while now.
Pyrex is a type of glass.
Lexan is a type of polycarbonate.

If your 6P bezel has a black plastic ring holding in the lens like you see the G2Z (front in the photo below) then the lens is Pyrex.
If your 6P bezel does not have a black plastic ring and looks like the Z2 (back in the photo below) then the lens is Lexan.

DSC04969.jpg

Shelby Chan Photography

I'd like to see photos of the change you've made. Pleaes can you show us?

Thanks

Al
 
Does the "follow the bezel ring" advice apply to the E-series lights and heads? Or are all Executive Elites and KL1/KL4s made exclusively in Pyrex?
 
All E1e, E2e, L4, L1, KL1, KL4, E2D are made with Pyrex. Unless you happened to own an E1 and E2, you should not worry.
 
Great. Tap test with coins confirmed that a while ago, just making sure. Pyrex freak at work here, I have seen how Lexan will get slaughtered by keys in a pocket whereas the Pyrex bezels look as good as the day they came once you rinse off the lint.

(edit)PS: Almost bought an E1 classic on closeout at $49, just that Surefire ran out of stock. I was kinda upset because the E1e was so much more expensive (to a non-flashaholic in search of a powerful pocket light).. but I find the side-mounted clip indispensable and the E1 would have made me sacrifice the clip for the KL1. Maybe it was all for the best? Either that or I may just have had to buy another light /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif
 
Pyrex is just so sweet and cool. I would not want a light without the Pyrex on the bezel. Some may argue about the breakability of Pyrex on impact but I remained steadfast in my believes. To me, I stand a higher chance of scratching and melting the Lexan than breaking the Pyrex.
 
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I have just bought a Pyrex lens for my 6P which has a slightly melted Lexan lens (from running a P61 too long).

What is the best way to remove and replace the lens? It seems like brute force is required, but I am worried that this will damage the bezel.
 
Welcome CFM!

Where did you buy a Pyrex lens for you 6P from?

The way to remove a Lexan lens from a 6P is brute force. They are push-in snap-fit. I get a screwdriver and whack the lens from the inside by bringing the screwdriver down onto a hard surface...

SureFire have a Lexan lens replacement kit called the Z17. It contains instructions.

Al
 
I was imprecise. The lens is a 29.1mm UCL lens from Flashlightlens.com. (It may be too big.)

Do I understand correctly that the lens comes out forward (beamward) rather than toward the lamp?

I just replaced the plastic lens in a Maglite bezel (That mod uses a 75W MR16 so it deserved to melt.) and I expected the SF 6P lens to come right out the same way.
 
x size15s:

here the photo that you have required:

http://www.sharemation.com/orologiaiodc/glass-polymer.jpg

i'm sorry that in this image you can't see the same with naked eye...

the first photo is the dorcy spyder with the original plastic lens... you can see a lot of dust that was attracted by electrostatic charge

in the second the streamlight TT 1L with a mineral cristal that i use like replacement on watches... i can easily clear all the dust and when the light is on seems that the glass doesn't exist for how is clear

in the third the surefire 6p, all the considerations is the same of the TT 1L. for replace the lexan i have use the "brute force" for remove the lexan then i have found the right diameter of a glass (i have all the size, for example 30,1mm 30,2mm 30,3mm...) and insert in the bezel with a little pressure (there is a risk to break the glass...)

only i can't be sure that this light remain waterproof... i haven't to the test
 
Yup, this 29.1mm lens is too big. I imagine a push-in snap-fit for glass in aluminum is going to need to be a pretty close tolerance.

David, do you know the diameter of the lens you used?

Where did you get it?
 
i have forgot the diameter of the glass that i used /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ohgeez.gif

but now i measure the internal diameter of the bezel: the 6p is 28,0mm so i think that i have used a 28,1mm glass. the TT 1L bezel is 29,3mm so i think that i have used a 29,4mm glass. this glass go in with a pressure on the bezel so there is a risk of broke... but if you can put in after installing the gasket the glass become very stable (there isn't risk of lose...)

the glass that i use is the same of the common watch, there are all diameter and all thickness and the cost is quite low (5-10 $ depending on the size)

i'm thinking to use also sapphire glass, they are 4 time stronger that tempred glass but the cost is much high and is difficult to find all diameter...
 
I test for Pyrex/Lexan in a way some might disapprove of but it takes only a second or two and I find it convenient and reliable. I take one point of a very sharp little Fiskars scissors, place it on the lens next to the rim at a slightly off-vertical angle and press lightly. It will stick in Lexan and slide on Pyrex. There will be no visible mark on Lexan unless you carefully search for it, and even then you might miss it.

Brightnorm
 
David,
You have been very helpful. I am now searching for 28mm watch crystals. What thickness do you think you used for your replacement SF 6P lense, 1.2mm?
Charlie
 
around 2,2mm for the 6p and 2,8mm for the TT 1L

remember that if the crystal is too thin there is the risk that it can rattle because the internal o-ring can't make the correct pressure on this glass

p.s.
are you sure that 28mm is enough? i think 28,1 is better...
 

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