Quark Tactical 123x2 on a shotgun?

[readyme]

I am considering mounting a Quark on the end of my 870 shotgun. Has anybody done this...any problems with the light?
The light sounds like exactly what I want, but I have not heard of anybody using it for a mounting on a weapon.
Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[ARA]

i believe the 123x2 flashlight has a body diameter of .86", if you can find a mount which fits, you can give it a try. The only thing that bothers me with shotgun lights is that they can disturb the balance of a weapon, also if not mounted to an appropriate rail the tension mounted lights do tend to move with the recoil. Otherwise the LED should be ok. Hope that helps

 

[carbine15]

two primary cr123 cells will crush each other during recoil.

 

[readyme]

two primary cr123 cells will crush each other during recoil.

"crush" as in destroy each other?
Can you please explain.
Wouldn't that be the case in all 2 cell flashlights used on shotguns? I am pretty sure I have seen pictures of Surefire's attached the fronts of shotguns in the past...just curious (since I asked the original questions, I obviously don't know the answer).

 

[defloyd77]

"crush" as in destroy each other?
Can you please explain.
Wouldn't that be the case in all 2 cell flashlights used on shotguns? I am pretty sure I have seen pictures of Surefire's attached the fronts of shotguns in the past...just curious (since I asked the original questions, I obviously don't know the answer).

Surefires have both bezel and tail end springs for shock absorption.

 

[R@ndom]

Also in department they use a special battery which is 2 CR123a connected with a felt washer.

 

[AnAppleSnail]

"crush" as in destroy each other?
Can you please explain.
Wouldn't that be the case in all 2 cell flashlights used on shotguns? I am pretty sure I have seen pictures of Surefire's attached the fronts of shotguns in the past...just curious (since I asked the original questions, I obviously don't know the answer).

As I understand it, the weapon recoil will jam the batteries into the front of the light. This is unhealthy for the front of the front battery and the back of the driver electronics in the Quark. Many dedicated weapon lights have a spring in front and back (Also ensures contact during the recoil) while spreading out the force of the battery staying still while the gun moves around it.

 

[carbine15]

You could just use a single cell (like an 18650 or 17670) for your weaponlight. Don't use protected cells for mission critical jobs or it will cut out on you at a very inopportune time.

 

[readyme]

So it sounds like the Quark tactical is for hands only...what flashlight (removable) would you suggest for use on a shotgun then?

 

[Mercaptan]

So it sounds like the Quark tactical is for hands only...what flashlight (removable) would you suggest for use on a shotgun then?

SureFire.

Built from the ground-up for these sorts of purposes. With a proven track record of making quality attachments for weapons, there won't be a problem.

Don't skimp if you are trusting it with your life.

I would not recommend using a 'removable' light for a shotgun. Get a fixed fore-end (the best solution) or use a magazine-tube mount for a 1" bodied light (second best).

Why do you want it to be 'removable?'

Also, in response to above: All of my weaponlights use 2x CR123s and I've never had a problem with crushed cells. They are always SureFire cells and SureFire lights.

 

[PCC]

One other thing to note about what you want to do: don't use multi-mode lights on a weapon. You might find that you are using the wrong mode at the wrong time and fidgeting with your light when you should be concentrating on what you are doing can be hazardous to your health. A single-mode light is the way to go.

The best light is a dedicated weapon light. It is designed to handle the recoil. If you are cheap, like me, you can use a SureFire 6P clone but be aware that the recoil will eventually kill it. If you are a civilian who just wants to hang a light onto the end of your "bump in the night" weapon then that should be fine so long as you remove it before heading out to the gun range but if you're LEO/military then get the proper tool for the job.

 

[Patriot]

don't use multi-mode lights on a weapon. You might find that you are using the wrong mode at the wrong time and fidgeting with your light when you should be concentrating on what you are doing can be hazardous to your health. A single-mode light is the way to go.

I think that low light combat folks would agree unanimously. I personally wouldn't mount this particular light as it's just far too complicated in function. Frankly, I can't even imagine using the quark on the shooting range against the clock, never mind a much more serious situation. There's just too much involved in shooting, moving and crucial decision making already.

The only multi-mode exception I would make is the Surefire two mode that allows you to push a little for less light and push all the way for max light. This is very intuitive and one of the few dual-mode types that doesn't get in the way.

Balance isn't an issue with the type of weights we're talking about. Most shooters wouldn't even notice the difference on a long gun and even if they did, it's a quick adaptation.

 

[readyme]

I wouldn't mind having a Surefire forend for my shotgun, but there is no way I am going to pay more for the forend than I payed for the whole shotgun.
I want it removable so if I am away from my house/shotgun, I still have a good flashlight to use.

 

[carbine15]

...I want it removable so if I am away from my house/shotgun, I still have a good flashlight to use.

Get a second light. Or a third fourth or thousandth light like the rest of us. A light dedicated to the shotgun is the best and only REAL option. It should be single mode forward clicky (or even a twisy with momentary function like a 6P) with an easily reached button for quick burst activation. Use locktite. Keep your battery fresh (or freshly charged) regularly. Practice with it so you know it'll hold up under the recoil.

I don't own a shotgun. I love them but I can't hit anything without real sights so I've been discouraged in my shotgunning.

I can hit clay pigeons with my AR all day long.

 

[Mercaptan]

Get a second light. Or a third fourth or thousandth light like the rest of us. A light dedicated to the shotgun is the best and only REAL option. It should be single mode forward clicky (or even a twisy with momentary function like a 6P) with an easily reached button for quick burst activation. Use locktite. Keep your battery fresh (or freshly charged) regularly. Practice with it so you know it'll hold up under the recoil.

I don't own a shotgun. I love them but I can't hit anything without real sights so I've been discouraged in my shotgunning.

I can hit clay pigeons with my AR all day long.

Agreed.

I have at least 4 dedicated weaponlights... which is more than I have in terms of normal flashlights, go figure. Dedicated means devoted. Devoted means properly designed, properly maintained, and properly practiced.

By the way, my X300 is 1/2 the cost of my pistol it is mounted to. I wouldn't bat an eye to buy another one. I have faith in my systems; if it fails once it's out (repaired or flat out replaced).

A jack of all trades is a master of none. You want a master of one use in this role, and experts will agree.

 

[Hogokansatsukan]

Just like everyone else stated. You need a dedicated light that has on/off only for this purpose. Get one with a tape switch as holding the "tail button" down, or having your hand too close to it, can be painfull if firing slugs and buck, as the recoil will jam the light into your hand. Ask me how I know.
Even for a bump in the night gun, I would not go with any light that has anything but on and off.

 

[ionizedsky]

Thought I might share this thread with ya'll as this had some good info in it pertaining to topic at hand.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=244126

 

[Dennis]

I have tons-o-Surefire weaponlights but I am very tempted to mount a Quark 2x123 tactical on an AR or AUG because of the small size. I am very confident it would work just fine, however there doesn't seem to be any good mounts made for a light that small!

Dennis.

 

[JeffInChi]

SureFire.

Built from the ground-up for these sorts of purposes. With a proven track record of making quality attachments for weapons, there won't be a problem.

Don't skimp if you are trusting it with your life.

I would not recommend using a 'removable' light for a shotgun. Get a fixed fore-end (the best solution) or use a magazine-tube mount for a 1" bodied light (second best).

Why do you want it to be 'removable?'

Also, in response to above: All of my weaponlights use 2x CR123s and I've never had a problem with crushed cells. They are always SureFire cells and SureFire lights.

+1

My favorite weapon mounted light is the Surefire Responder. This unit replaces your slide or fore-end with a compact unit sporting an integral light module. The Surefire unit is adequately protected against the heavy recoil of shotgun cartridges -- the light bezel, battery pack and light body all incorporate recoil-absorbing features to make sure that your light doesn't die. It's not just good enough to hose-clamp a Surefire 3P or 6P onto your shotgun; you have to make sure that the recoil of the gun will not damage the batteries or lamp unit.
Note that a bottom-mounted sling can interfere with the Responder unit, as the lamp assembly may get in the way of the sling. However, you might be able to drill and tap a hole in your shotgun to allow the sling to be side-mounted.
The Surefire Responder comes standard with a momentary on/off pressure switch. A nice feature about the Surefire and other weapon-mounted lights is that there are no wires hanging around your weapon to get snagged on branches, doorknobs or whatever. Everything is integral to the fore-end or slide. For an additional fee, Surefire also provdes a parallel constant on/off rocker switch, which allows you to turn the light on and leave it on without applying constant pressure to the momentary switch. Why would you want such a feature? Well, imagine that you've apprehended a goblin in your home. It's dark, so you have your weapon-mounted light trained on him. You reach for the phone to call the police. Which hand do you use? If you use your non-dominant hand, your light goes out because there is no pressure on the momentary switch. If you use your dominant hand, the goblin knows you can't fire so he rushes you. This problem is solved by the parallel constant on/off switch.

Spend the extra money, you'll be glad that you did. I use a surefire model 618fa on my 870 tactical, I bought it for $200 on ebay, money well spent. If it's not bright enough for you (which it should be in most close combat/indoor situations), you can always use a malkoff m60 drop-in which will fit this light and dramatically increase brightness.

 

[ionizedsky]

One of the things I have done with flashlights of different sizes when utilizing them as a inexpensive bike light in conjunction of two hose clamps. I use duck tape around the light where I will be putting the hose clamp around the light to protect the finish, but this also can be done to increase the outside diameter.

I also do not recommend a multi-mode light as a weapon light. Vibration of multiple shots fired could actually cause the light to switch modes when you need it most

I have tons-o-Surefire weaponlights but I am very tempted to mount a Quark 2x123 tactical on an AR or AUG because of the small size. I am very confident it would work just fine, however there doesn't seem to be any good mounts made for a light that small!

Dennis.

You might want to check out your link as I do not believe it is your intend link you wanted to post.

+1

My favorite weapon mounted light is the Surefire Responder. This unit replaces your slide or fore-end with a compact unit sporting an integral light module. The Surefire unit is adequately protected against the heavy recoil of shotgun cartridges -- the light bezel, battery pack and light body all incorporate recoil-absorbing features to make sure that your light doesn't die. It's not just good enough to hose-clamp a Surefire 3P or 6P onto your shotgun; you have to make sure that the recoil of the gun will not damage the batteries or lamp unit.
Note that a bottom-mounted sling can interfere with the Responder unit, as the lamp assembly may get in the way of the sling. However, you might be able to drill and tap a hole in your shotgun to allow the sling to be side-mounted.
The Surefire Responder comes standard with a momentary on/off pressure switch. A nice feature about the Surefire and other weapon-mounted lights is that there are no wires hanging around your weapon to get snagged on branches, doorknobs or whatever. Everything is integral to the fore-end or slide. For an additional fee, Surefire also provdes a parallel constant on/off rocker switch, which allows you to turn the light on and leave it on without applying constant pressure to the momentary switch. Why would you want such a feature? Well, imagine that you've apprehended a goblin in your home. It's dark, so you have your weapon-mounted light trained on him. You reach for the phone to call the police. Which hand do you use? If you use your non-dominant hand, your light goes out because there is no pressure on the momentary switch. If you use your dominant hand, the goblin knows you can't fire so he rushes you. This problem is solved by the parallel constant on/off switch.

Spend the extra money, you'll be glad that you did. I use a surefire model 618fa on my 870 tactical, I bought it for $200 on ebay, money well spent. If it's not bright enough for you (which it should be in most close combat/indoor situations), you can always use a malkoff m60 drop-in which will fit this light and dramatically increase brightness.