Quarks failed. I need a new pocket light

[passive101]

I have a 123a Mini and a 2x 123a regular Quark. Both lights have progressively gotten worse with the same problem. When they are on the lower settings if there is a slight bump or if it's just sitting on a desk (tail standing) it bumps to the next level and keeps going cycling.

This is NOT a quark rip thread. I simply need a new pocket light. I know Quark will probably fix them under warranty. Only 1 of them was ever dropped.

I need one that has a pocket clip. I need it small short and able to stick into the pocket well. I'd prefer it to be as close to 200 lumens as possible. A single 123A would be ideal.

It's getting to be storm season and the lights have gone out where I work 2x now.

In the very near future is something new and better coming out? I'm open to suggestions. I just want it to be built a bit more durable.

 

[umc]

What kind of budget are we working with here?

 

[sol-leks]

Maybe the Jetbeam rrt-0? Or an RA twisty/clicky?

 

[jhc37013]

Maybe the Jetbeam rrt-0? Or an RA twisty/clicky?

+1 for the RRT0 and with the Nitecore D10 clip.

 

[Viper715]

Zebralight SC30 got mine and love it. It is small brigh and pockets easily. I love have access to the levels from off. Good luck.

 

[HIDblue]

Take a look at the Fenix PD20 R2. It only requires one 123 battery, turbo mode at 190 lumens, and has a pocket clip. I think it's roughly 3 inches long so it's my favorite EDC that fits in the small pocket of my jeans. Simple UI with a clickie at the rear. Great light.

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[carrot]

I am not convinced that this is a coincidence that BOTH your Quarks are having issues. I do not wish to imply that you are operating your lights wrongly, but it is the simplest explanation for why BOTH of your lights are having issues.

I am curious to know how much you tighten down the various parts of your light. I believe tightening it down too hard (quite excessively) may cause the innards to unscrew slightly (this can happen on OTHER lights that are similar in design, but I have not inspected my Quarks carefully enough to know if this is a design problem with these lights), which could cause intermittent contact that would result in the experience you are having.

Conversely, not tightening the bezel all the way down on the MiNi or the switch on the regular could also cause intermittent contact which would also cause the same issues.

You may have a better experience with a Ra Clicky. It is a bit bigger than a lot of popular lights (about 1" diameter) but is very robust. You may also be pleased with a Surefire E1B, which is another excellent option and a good deal slimmer.

 

[Chauncey Gardner]

Second on the rrt-0 & the Bitz Titanium Pocket Light is also on sale at lighthound.com for about $120 after cpf discount.

Would not swear to it but I rember reading a thread with from an IS that put the output of the Bitz @ 180 lumens. Selfbuilt did a review of the Bitz aluminum that will at least give an idea of the build quality you can expect on the Bitz lights:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=195410

You can also check his review on the RRT-0.

I also really like the Jetbeam magnetic ring UI after using it. Smooth mode changes & nice tactile feel to it.

The Olight Infinitums are also nice (in CR123) & fairly throwy for a pocket light & in between the Bitz & Jet.

And there is always the Fenix P2D/PD20 & Lumapower Incendio. Both are great simple lights. The Lumapower does not have strobe or beacon modes.

 

[jhc37013]

That Bitz looks interesting now I also might be considering a new light.

 

[rookiedaddy]

I have a 123a Mini and a 2x 123a regular Quark. Both lights have progressively gotten worse with the same problem. When they are on the lower settings if there is a slight bump or if it's just sitting on a desk (tail standing) it bumps to the next level and keeps going cycling.

I experience the same on one of my Turbo "occasionally", instead of changing mode, it goes into programming mode. Compare to other lights, Quark does have a little more play in the thread upon entering tighten mode, usually loosening the head further will solve it.

Maybe thoroughly cleaning the threads on both lights will help, together with a drop or two of DeoxIT Gold on the contact, also not forgetting tightening the tail cap retaining ring.

For new pocket light, EagleTac P20C2 MKII 300 OTF lumens will not disappoint you. Did I mention 300 OTF lumens?

 

[Monocrom]

Take a look at the Fenix PD20 R2. It only requires one 123 battery, turbo mode at 190 lumens, and has a pocket clip. I think it's roughly 3 inches long so it's my favorite EDC that fits in the small pocket of my jeans. Simple UI with a clickie at the rear. Great light.

There are simplier U.I.'s, and some might not like that it comes with a reverse-clickie.

However, I must admit that it is one of the most versatile lights I own. Not a tactical light. But it performs very well for other uses where one would need a light. The clip is nicely designed. I've given away a couple of my other Fenix lights. But the PD20 is a Keeper.

 

[passive101]

I would prefer a forward clicky so it could be used as a tactical light if possible.

My budget is around 100 dollars.

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

I am not convinced that this is a coincidence that BOTH your Quarks are having issues.

I wondered about that, too.

 

[ToNIX]

My Quark AA Tactical does that when I hold the light too tightly in my hand.

With the bezel unscrewed for mode #2, holding it too tight makes the head bend a bit, and the contacts makes it like it's tightened...

This may be the same "problem"?

 

[Brasso]

I would second the Zebralight SC30 or SC50. Fantastic.

 

[jtivat]

Get the RRT-0 it is an awesome light.

 

[SCEMan]

I've discovered if I don't loosen the head of my 123-2* Tactical XP-G far enough it doesn't switch modes properly. Being used to my NDI which switches modes with a 1/4" twist, I've found that if I don't twist my quark loose far enough it will change to the other mode but still allow momentary "press-through" to the "tightened" mode. Kind of like an Surefire LX2 - but not consistently enough to be useful. It also went into programming mode once this way.

I'm now careful to twist-loosen the head at least a half-turn

 

[pseudoblue]

Ooo, i hear recommendations of P20C2 MK II and RRT-0! They are also my current main EDCs So far so good. :thumbsup: The RRT-0 has been really put to good use and it has been reliable (got it in Dec 09). The P20C2 is only a month old, no issues so far.

I would recommend to get your Quarks replaced btw, I also EDC a mini 123 and it's been good too.

 

[UpChUcK]

I have the JetBeam RRT-0 enroute to me right now. As well as a EagleTac T20C2 MkII and Nitecore D20 R2. :thumbsup:

The EagleTac P20C2 MkII or T20C2 MkII would make a nice replacement for you Q123-2.

For a replacement for your Quark Mini123, take a look at the ITP A1 EOS 1x123. The UI is identical to the Mini123 (which I have) - twisty > low > med > hi and is rated at 190 lumens.

 

[passive101]

Hmmm I think I am falling for the Jetbeam RRT 0.

Where is the best place to order this so the price is competitive and I am sure to get the newest version?