Radio Shack 123 1500 mAH?

degarb

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Radio Shack has rechargeable cr 123's it claims to have 1500 mah. Seems like a misprint, purposeful probably. Or is it not?

Also, if I built own parallel 18650 pack. How can this be done if no holder on market. And would one potentially charge the other, causing explosions?
 
Radio Shack has rechargeable cr 123's it claims to have 1500 mah. Seems like a misprint, purposeful probably. Or is it not?
Do you have a link? It's hard to know the exact product to which you refer without a link or product code.

Do they come with a charger? Rechargeable 123A's from retail outlets almost always come in a package with charger.

From the 1500 mAh rating they are most likely primary CR123A cells and the rechargeable bit is the misprint.
 
I stopped at my local RS on the way home tonight and checked out this charger and batteries. I would not recommend getting it. The batteries are only 400 mAh 3.0V batteries.
 
That wasn't my question. My question is " At the Shack here, there ARE rcr 123's marked on package as 1500 mAH, even on their spec sheet. So, is this even possible? I know its more likely some marketing idiot mistake, or Chinese translation issue."

I will have to call them to find out their product number.

Yes, they sell 450s with the charger. I wouldn't be surprised with any real spec on these.
 
My other question here was: " Does putting Lions in parrallel risk reverse charging and explosion?"

So, I might switch to lions if, 1. I found reasonable price on charger and 18500 or higher protected bats 2. Knew parallelling, up to a 30 watt hour pack, them was safe 3. Found some premade or easy to make holders.

Also, 14500 might be a good size since they are AA size. But, not interested until capacity gets to nearing 2000 mAH, while all I see is 800 mAH. I would need to parallel 12 cells to triple typical AA NiMH capacity! No thanks.
 
Don't forget that
nimh AA is 1.2V * 2.0Ah = 2.4Wh
Li-Ion 14500 is 3.7V * 0.8Ah = 2.96Wh

12 Nimh cells = 14.4 Volt 2.0Ah
12 Li-Ion (4 in series, 3 such packs parallell) = 14.8 Volt 2.4Ah

Though if you actually construct such a pack you have to take balancing and protection into account :)
 
""""Don't forget that
nimh AA is 1.2V * 2.0Ah = 2.4Wh
Li-Ion 14500 is 3.7V * 0.8Ah = 2.96Wh

Though if you actually construct such a pack you have to take balancing and protection into account :)

Actually, a power user would have 2650's or 2900 batteries. I don't play around with 2000 mAh batteries. In theory, a 2650 is 3.18 watt-hour off charger. And I consider a 30 watt hour battery pack as the ideal, but may someday settle with 18 watt hour 6 cell setup.

I am confused whether 14500 is AA or 10500 is. Both are googled to be AA size.

I guess 6 li-ons would be lighter in parallel. But at a cost of safety and need to buy 3 chargers. The ideal would be to get the 14500 capacity to be more like triple the AA for same size, not less 2.9*1.2=3.48.
 
Actually, a power user would have 2650's or 2900 batteries. I don't play around with 2000 mAh batteries. In theory, a 2650 is 3.18 watt-hour off charger. And I consider a 30 watt hour battery pack as the ideal, but may someday settle with 18 watt hour 6 cell setup.

I am confused whether 14500 is AA or 10500 is. Both are googled to be AA size.

I guess 6 li-ons would be lighter in parallel. But at a cost of safety and need to buy 3 chargers. The ideal would be to get the 14500 capacity to be more like triple the AA for same size, not less 2.9*1.2=3.48.

A real power user would know that under a high load you'd never get 2650mAh and there's no such thing as 2900mAh cells, the max is around 2700mAh. Also you should realize that 2000mAh Eneloop type cells will stand up better under high current. Hi-cap NiMH will start to degrade quickly running high loads some failing to go above 2000mAh after a few cycles. I've toasted a few sets of those hi-cap cells already(that's a few hundred dollars) but these eneloops they're holding up well.
 
Define high loads... For me I just use 3 one watt lights, I wear, for a typical 10 hour work day. About 1 watt headlamp + .5 watt on wrist for each helper. (Though the process may be evolving.) I would like to push 3 watts per headlight, but battery technology isn't there--I would need 30 watt hour to get one workday, or spend half day popping in batteries and testing cells.

Also, you need to be more clear about branding. I found Duracell 2650 much reliable than any other brand (kodak worst, then energizer). Also, I take wrappers off for better heat transfer (beware, on some lights you need that vinyl insulation) and put ice pack on cells when quick 15 minute charging, so they are cool. Since doing this a few months ago, I haven't lost a cell to higher resistance--the more contact with ice pack, the better. I've yet to invest in a more expensive slow charger, and know this will horrify some users here. I find charging on cheaper slow chargers seem to ruin my rechargeables for some reason.

Even Eneloops have first few hour off charger drop in capacity. I know a 2900 Maha isn't 2900 after a few hours, but assume at 1 watt to 1.5 watts, the ratio is similar to package rating 2000/2900. I sure see a difference between runtime with 2650's and 2000's of a few hours, but yet to try Eneloops but have my share of the Rayovac Hybrids.
 
My high current draws are 8amps are about 3.5-4C.

The branding means nothing. As most of the commercial cells(duracell - enegizer) are made by Sanyo. Just some sit longer on shelves.

The self-discharge on the hi-cap cells get extremely high after a while even under small loads. The cells just seem easier to damage and are more sensitive.

I have a Maha charger and I charge them at 1A. 2 hours wait is acceptable to me as the cells don't heat up, they just get slightly warm.

The thing is the Eneloops hot off the charger would be around 2200-2300mah and after a while will drop to the 2000mah. The hi-cap cells say a 2650 will start at 2500mah and drop to around 2300-2200mah.

If you're just using the cells in 1 watt lights then yeh there's a difference. I don't use NiMH in LEDs anymore, I used to but now they use RCR123s my only use for NiMHs now are for high current hotwires(they are the only cells that can handle up to 4C draw. Without having to invest in a new charger for A123.)
 
Hi Tebore,

DealExtreme has protected 880's RCR 123's for reasonable. But to convert lights to 6 or 8 cells in parallel, I would need to solve following issues: 1. How to construct the holders for 6 cells. 2. how to charge at least 6 cells at one time. I need to find a safe charger, perhaps charge inside a metal can ( I am thinking popcorn can)?!! 3. how to reliable and safely test all cells ( would simple volt meter work?) so they are balanced. 4. find out if this brand is safe.


This capacity seems in line with the 14500 size, and far easier to get.
 
li-ion in parallel is perfectly safe provided they are put in parallel while they are in a somewhat similar state of charge. They will balance out and charge and discharge in balance without any problems.

If power density is of concern, and you just need a 3.7V source of power, but lots of amp hours to work with, your best bet is going to be a parallel li-ion pack loaded with 18650s. heat-shrunk versions of such setups are available.

here's an example:
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2843

or you could buy some good quality cells, like some LG 2600mAH cells, with tabs, and solder the tabs to a common junction, (don't solder right to a cell, the heat is not healthy for the cell). Install a PCB for the pack and use some heat shrink to hold it all together.
 
There's a universal charger for li-ions that allows you to select what you're charging.

Just have someone build the cell for you. Either that or just build a pack using protected cells. The protection circuit will do the job.
 
here's an example:
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2843

or you could buy some good quality cells, like some LG 2600mAH cells, with tabs, and solder the tabs to a common junction, (don't solder right to a cell, the heat is not healthy for the cell). Install a PCB for the pack and use some heat shrink to hold it all together.

I like that pack. But I am guessing better ways to go for the price. What is best source for 18650 protecte with tabs? That $15 charger might do other cells like lion 3.7 packs?

This make it very tempting to take the DX cr123's http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.8683 and solder together, against your advice. That alligator clip charger, opens up alot of possibilities.
 
DO NOT SOLDER ON LI-ION BATTERIES UNLESS YOU ARE TRULY AN EXPERT - WELDING IS THE PREFERRED METHOD. (and if you're an expert you know better than to risk soldering)

NEVER ATTEMPT TO SOLDER PROTECTED LI-ION BATTERIES. YOU WILL DESTROY THE PROTECTION CIRCUIT AND SUBSEQUENTLY RISK PROPERTY OR PERSONAL DAMAGE.

Okay, now that we've got that out of the way....


You don't build packs using protected cells. You build packs using unprotected, pre-tabbed cells then you ADD a PCB that is properly sized (voltage/discharge rate) that is for the entire pack.

I'm not clear what actual voltage, capacitance and discharge rates you're actually trying to attain or I could make a specific suggestion. 30Wh...break it down for me.


Also:
Duracell AA NiMh are not made by Sanyo.
10440 = AAA
14500 = AA
 
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Hi Tebore,

DealExtreme has protected 880's RCR 123's for reasonable. But to convert lights to 6 or 8 cells in parallel, I would need to solve following issues: 1. How to construct the holders for 6 cells. 2. how to charge at least 6 cells at one time. I need to find a safe charger, perhaps charge inside a metal can ( I am thinking popcorn can)?!! 3. how to reliable and safely test all cells ( would simple volt meter work?) so they are balanced. 4. find out if this brand is safe.


This capacity seems in line with the 14500 size, and far easier to get.

There's some testing data on DX RCR123 cells in this thread:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=195712

sku.8683 looks like it manages a bit over 600mAh capacity at 1A discharge, but the "rated" 880mAh is way overstated. Just a bit of info if you were planning on figuring runtimes based on stated, rather than measured, capacity.
 
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