Raw Power

[l1ghtm4ster]

Which would give me closest in light output to something like the Microfire Warrior III K3500R 35W HID? I want an LED light Q5 or SSC, and something that would run on the CR123's. I've read about lights such as the SPEAR, A9, Dereelight etc, but as I'm new to this some guidance would be much appreciated. Do any of the lights using Seoul P7 use CR123? And finally, which lights generally are known for staying cool and not getting to hot?

 

[AOBRICK]

Thats a tall order. I think the first question is what are you planning to use the light for? 3,500 lumens is a lot of light, impractical for all but only the most specialized uses.

My fenix T1 and P3DQ5 are usually too bright on their higest settings. I have a MicroFire T500 on my AR-15 and at night It is bright enough for long range target identification.
My closest recommendation however is a multi-led in a Mag lite host(ex:electrolumens wall of fire, Malkoff triple, TLE-300)

I use a Malkoff Quad (no longer in production) to shine through even the darkest tint on traffic stops.

:welcome:

 

[Gunner12]

:welcome:

3500 lumen, lets see. Presuming overdriven Cree Q5s at 300 lumen. The LED will be driven a bit more then 1.5 amp at that output, which is 50% more then the max recommended drive current. So that is 12 50% overdriven LEDs needed to hit that output, or around 15-16 normally driven ones. With an overdriven Seoul P7(so it hits 900 lumen), that's still 4 LEDs. That is a total of, humm, 3.6v * 1.5 amp * 12 LEDs = 64.8 watts of power(probably 45-65 watts, depending on LED). That's before losses by the driver. I don't think you need to do any calculations to see that there will be a lot of heat created. 45-65 is watt more then the 35 watt of the HID bulb, both before losses of the driver or ballast.

Also to have the same beam pattern as the Microfire, you'll need a good sized reflector for each LED. Also you'll need quite a few CR123 batteries to power the light. Overall, you'll get a light that is much larger, then the Microfire and costs more to run.

The Spear, DBS, A9 and other throwers are great thrower for their output, but they still pale in comparison to many of the HIDs(46500 lux from a 20w AElight Xenide, 35100 lux from a 10w Wolfeye Boxer, max of around 30000 lux from the Dereelight DBS).

Well this and this P7 light can both take CR123s.

As for staying cool, that usually mean larger amount of heatsinking, which means more metal, which means larger size and more weight, unless the light has the right fins.

 

[kavvika]

Maybe 4x Cree MC-E's or Seoul P7's in something 4D Mag, each powered by one of KD/DX's AMC7135 3amp drivers? There won't be room in anything but a custom turbo head for enough single-die LED's to hit 3.5 "kilolumens". And still, that's ~12 amps from the cells, which would need to be NiMh, as alkaline's couldn't handle the draw.

 

[l1ghtm4ster]

So which one then!!!!!! The A9, Spear, Dereelight, or even the new Olight Warrior? I would like good balance between decent throw, yet usable spill light. Is this a too much of a tall order? Comments and suggestions please.
Also.....anyone know of any actual stores around Los Angeles, where you can get a hands on feel of these lights? Most seem only available online. Thanks.

 

[Gunner12]

I though you wanted a LED light as close to 3500 lumen as possible, so I was listing why this will be a very hard thing to do. It is hard to match HIDs in both output and throw.

What will you use the light for? How much throw?

Most of these lights are easiest bought online. It is probably easier to find a kind CPFer in your area who will let you see his/her light instead of finding a store that sells the Dereelight, Tiablo, Lumapower, or Olight.

 

[DigitalGreaseMonkey]

Which would give me closest in light output to something like the Microfire Warrior III K3500R 35W HID? I want an LED light Q5 or SSC, and something that would run on the CR123's. I've read about lights such as the SPEAR, A9, Dereelight etc, but as I'm new to this some guidance would be much appreciated. Do any of the lights using Seoul P7 use CR123? And finally, which lights generally are known for staying cool and not getting to hot?

I was just going through this exercise myself. In my application (security) I need a good combination of throw and flood. I was going crazy digging through the threads till I found gold in another thread asking for advice. (Thanks Selfbuilt!)

This was the MVP comparison thread (another contender):
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=205174

And this is the link to the wonderful night shot comparison page:
http://www.ledmania.cz/fotky-venku

In the end I have just ordered the Solarforce T700 from Lighthound.

Best of luck in your hunting!
DGM

 

[shakeylegs]

There are so many variables involved, without knowing your specific needs it's hard to make a good recommendation.
If you are willing to go incand the osram 64447 will give you your 3500 lumens and run relatively cool (100 degrees) when driven at 16 volts. matched with a fivemega head you'll have a lot of light but not much runtime.
For a fist full of light with good throw, great flood and reasonable runtimes, look at the P7's. Here are a bunch at DX http://www.dealextreme.com/search.dx/search.p7. Also, check electrolumens in the marketplace. I think Lumapower now has a P7 as well.
The single emitter throwers like DBS and Tiablo are superb for spotting at a distance but they don't spill much.

 

[bullterrier]

Which would give me closest in light output to something like the Microfire Warrior III K3500R 35W HID? I want an LED light Q5 or SSC, and something that would run on the CR123's. I've read about lights such as the SPEAR, A9, Dereelight etc, but as I'm new to this some guidance would be much appreciated. Do any of the lights using Seoul P7 use CR123? And finally, which lights generally are known for staying cool and not getting to hot?

+1 SPEAR:thumbsup:

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

Why not just get the damn HID??:devil: