yup put post 5 and post 6 and 7 together and that is what i would say.
get the best darn bin and item from the most reliable source WHEN:
1) your time is worth more than the differance in price
2) its only a 1 shot deal, and when its done its done
3) you already paid $20+ for drivers and $50+ for battery tubes, and $30+ for mods
4) the item your putting it in cost some 200$ bucks to begin with.
and you get an ol cheaper cree, which works just fine WHEN:
1) you can remove the item anytime, to change for the next wizz bang stuff , or when the price drops
2) its just an area light, and your using 30+ of them anyways
3) or a cheap mod, you just made a 20$ light a 50$ one, who cares if it looks 10% brighter to your eyes on max
4) your replacing 5mm leds
stuff like that. because they did not change the original gate type of the led, and drive CURRENT makes a big difference in led voltage, that really has not changed so much for YEARS now, with any of the stuff. from any of my testing , its how hard you run it, and how well it was heat removed, (which can include age) that did any major VF things that change HOW most of the driving items work. pluss the drivers themselves, and the battery voltage.
So to me i havent seen any huge differential in the voltage of the "white" led gates , that makes that much differance, even in Luxes, it seemed to be more gate fault and precision of parts, than some magical junction that worked at totally different voltage AT the same current and heat.
the gate voltages will change , when the gate itself is made of different materials, other than when damaged, heated, or manufactured better or worse.
(compared to three P4s) over getting four cheaper P4s + four McRs instead
