Rec: Throwy Incan

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mattevt

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jul 14, 2011
Messages
167
City & State/Province
Space Coast, FL via Essex, Vermont
I didn't really like the idea of asking for suggestions, but I saw the recommendation guide and thought it'd be OK.

In sum, I'm looking to purchase my first incan since the recent increase in my enthusiasm for flashlights. Lumens are not a high priority with this light. Furthest usable throw is preferred.

1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?


____I would like to purchase the light from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
_x__I will be mail-ordering or buying online, so this doesn't matter.


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :-)

____Less than $25.
____Less than $50.
__x__Less than $75.
____Less than $100.
____Less than $150.
____Less than $300.
____I have no limit.
____I’m flexible, tell me what you gotJ.
____Other, please specify ________


3) Format:

__x_I want a flashlight.
____I want a headlamp.
____I want a lantern.
____I want a dive light.
____I want a portable spotlight.


4) Flashlight-specific format/size:

____Keychain size.
____Every day carry small (2-4 inches).
__x__Every day carry medium (4-7 inches).
__x__Holster carry.
____Big enough to need its own travel caseJ.
__x__I don’t care.
____I don’t know.
____N/A


5) Emitter/Light source:

____LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
__x__Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

__x__I want to buy a light from a traditional mass producing manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
__x__I would consider getting a light that is pieced together (for example a “host” or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a “drop-in” emitter from another source). Under the right circumstances, this path can provide more options to the consumer to meet specific needs, and can often be easily upgradeable as technology improves.


7) What battery type do you want to use?

____I intend to use alkaline batteries (AAA, AA, C, D) (disclaimer, while it does not preclude all choices, these are not recommended for many of today’s most powerful lights)
__x__I intend to use rechargeable nickel chemistry (NiCad, NiMH, NiZn)
__x__I intend to use lithium primary batteries (CR123, CR2, Energizer Advanced/Ultimate Lithium AA/AAA)
____I intend to use rechargeable lithium (li-ion) chemistry. Feel free to specify a size if you know which size you want (14500, RCR123/16340, 17500, 17670, 18650, etc.)
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery. (Note: these choices may be very limited unless you are looking at spotlights)


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).

____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (0-10 lumens).
__x__I want to walk around an unlit rural area (50-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
____I want ridiculous amounts of lumens (800+ lumens).


9) Throw vs. Flood: At what distance will you be most likely to use this light? Select all that apply.

____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
____Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
____5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
____30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
__x__150+ yards (I want maximum throw possible)


10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum output).

____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
__x__30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
__x__90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).


11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase “you get what you pay for” is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A “night-stand” light).
___x_Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
___x_Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't care.
____I don’t know.


12) Switch Type and location (choose all that apply):

____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
____I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today’s high end lights).
__x__I don't care.
____I don’t know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
____I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
____I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Blinks to show location.)
____I want SOS mode.
____I want a beacon mode.
__x__I don’t care.
____I don’t know.


14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
____Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today’s flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
__x__I don’t care.
____I don’t know.
____Other, please specify____________.



 
Maglite can be focused quite good, if You find a better (brighter) bulb ...

Dont know the Strion and over You budget, but: SF 9N Turbohead
(or maybe 8X turbohead)
with some luck You might find a used one ...
 
Maglite can be focused quite good, if You find a better (brighter) bulb ...

Dont know the Strion and over You budget, but: SF 9N Turbohead
(or maybe 8X turbohead)
with some luck You might find a used one ...


Try finding a 9N turbohead, good luck with that. I have an 8AX and a 8NX, the 8AX is turboheaded and does indeed throw well, but the chances of a turboheaded 8AX showing up on the marketplace is slim, let alone one in the OP's pricerange. The magchargers supposedly throw extremely well with the stock lamp, you might want to take a look at one of those. I have one of the brightest stock surefire's ever, the 10X Dominator, and I wouldn't be surpired if the mighty magcharger might out throw it even it due to the extremly tight beam.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I was thinking about getting a 6D Mag, just because I could get one for $15 with my $10 Amazon credit, then think about modding it as money comes around.
 
I think you're on the right track to buy a maglite and mod as money comes along. I'm not sure the 6D mag is the best solution, since they're large and unweildy, but if it works for you, go for it.

A common first time mod is a ROP. Do a search, and you'll find a bunch of threads. If you go for a 6D light, you can simply use 6 nimh D batteries (varies), a ROP-low bulb ($5), and be set for a killer light that will last (almost) all night. The ROP-high bulb will require a metal reflector ($15-$25) and a glass lens ($6), but the light is a screamer!

Another great option is the ROP in a 2C maglite with Li-Ion cells.

For ease of use, I second the recommendation of a Streamlight Strion Incandescent. You can find them on the marketplace occasionally for $40 or so. They're a great light.

-John
 
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The OP is looking for maximum throw, and if he was to decide on a streamlight rechargeable the strion would not be a good choice. It is a small light with a small bezel that probably won't throw any better than a 6P with P60. He could get a stinger HP for the same price or less that will beat the strion in throw.
 
The streamlight Ultrastinger!!! its not as big as it looks and throw like a champ...i got it after Ebow86s advice and im happy with it
 
The streamlight Ultrastinger!!! its not as big as it looks and throw like a champ...i got it after Ebow86s advice and im happy with it

Ultrastinger is definetly a nice light and a true legend. My biggest compaint though is the plastic lens which is very diffucult to replace with a glass one. How great would the ultrastinger be with a glass lens and NIMH battery pack?
 
I think you're on the right track to buy a maglite and mod as money comes along. I'm not sure the 6D mag is the best solution, since they're large and unweildy, but if it works for you, go for it.

A common first time mod is a ROP. Do a search, and you'll find a bunch of threads. If you go for a 6D light, you can simply use 6 nimh D batteries (varies), a ROP-low bulb ($5), and be set for a killer light that will last (almost) all night. The ROP-high bulb will require a metal reflector ($15-$25) and a glass lens ($6), but the light is a screamer!

Another great option is the ROP in a 2C maglite with Li-Ion cells.

For ease of use, I second the recommendation of a Streamlight Strion Incandescent. You can find them on the marketplace occasionally for $40 or so. They're a great light.

-John

Hey Thanks for this info! I think I will do just that. Maybe I will go with a 4d mag.
 
Hey Thanks for this info! I think I will do just that. Maybe I will go with a 4d mag.

Before you buy the light, take a step back.

The first thing to think about when building a hotwire mod is to determine what sort of bulb you want. This will determine the load and how much battery capacity you need. With that in mind, you'll need to determine what sort of battery chemistry you want, and how many batteries you'll need. Finally, this will determine how big of a host you'll need.

So, instead of just buying a light, think of what you want it to do, and then buy the pieces for assembly. You'll end up saving a lot of money and avoiding a lot of rat holes.

This is a great hobby! The research and building is most of the fun.

-John
 
I would consider the ROP as jaundice suggests. I would probably go with the 2D host coupled with a 6AA->2D battery holder. I'd load the holder with AA Eneloops. The 2C host is a great size, but you will probably have to bore out the body to fit 26500 (C size) Li-ions (almost certainly, the orange wrappered AW IMR26500). For added throw, you can get a FiveMega VLOP Ver2 Deep Mag Reflector. You can also get either a borofloat or mineral glass window from FM as well.
 
Last edited:
Before you buy the light, take a step back.

The first thing to think about when building a hotwire mod is to determine what sort of bulb you want. This will determine the load and how much battery capacity you need. With that in mind, you'll need to determine what sort of battery chemistry you want, and how many batteries you'll need. Finally, this will determine how big of a host you'll need.

So, instead of just buying a light, think of what you want it to do, and then buy the pieces for assembly. You'll end up saving a lot of money and avoiding a lot of rat holes.

This is a great hobby! The research and building is most of the fun.

-John

Thanks for the advice...the thing I just realized is the Pelican bulb I bought runs on 6 volts. I only purchased a 2 D Mag. A 4 D mag would have put me at 6 volts with out having to purchase the 6AA->2D device. Oh well, live and learn.
 
Thanks for the advice...the thing I just realized is the Pelican bulb I bought runs on 6 volts. I only purchased a 2 D Mag. A 4 D mag would have put me at 6 volts with out having to purchase the 6AA->2D device. Oh well, live and learn.

4 D cell alkalines wont power the pelican bulb, you need to run 6AA nimh. 4 d cell alkalines might have 6 volts, but they sag under load.
 
Excellent to know. I learn so much here. :)

Yes, 4 alkalines won't power the pelican bulb, and not even 6 alkalines will power it any good either, it's applications like these that show the shortcomings of alkalines.
 
Matt;

Which Pelican bulb did you buy? The ROP is a specific 2 bulb pack made by Pelican. I'm thinking that you may not have the same bulb we're talking about. If it's not a high-powered bulb, it might work in maglite powered by alkalines. You won't get decent performance, but it may work.

Also, hotwire mods usually overdrive the bulb above the rated specs. This is what provides the wonderful white light and much greater output. This comes at the expense of bulb life. We usually run 6v bulbs at 7.0v to 7.4v.

-John
 
Matt;

Which Pelican bulb did you buy? The ROP is a specific 2 bulb pack made by Pelican. I'm thinking that you may not have the same bulb we're talking about. If it's not a high-powered bulb, it might work in maglite powered by alkalines. You won't get decent performance, but it may work.

Also, hotwire mods usually overdrive the bulb above the rated specs. This is what provides the wonderful white light and much greater output. This comes at the expense of bulb life. We usually run 6v bulbs at 7.0v to 7.4v.

-John

I purchased a Pelican 3854 replacement lamp for the Big D searchlight.
 
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