Recommendation Pls: Form incuded

jgourlay

Newly Enlightened
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Apr 21, 2010
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Folks, new to the forum here. If you would be so kind, I need a flashlight recommdendation and have included the form. I do have one unique requirement. I need a flashlight having no "electronics". This means no LED's, no "driver" circuits, ability to use batteries w/o "protection" circuits. Xenon is fine, if the light does not have an electronic driver. Resistor/capacitor/inductor based circuits are fine, transister/diode based ones are not.

0) What Region/Country/State will the light be purchased in?

____I will be mail-ordering or buying online, so this doesn't matter.
____I am in North America. More precisely I am in Texas


1) Price Range: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :)


____I am willing to spend $80-$120.


2) Format:

____I want a flashlight.
Interesting option: I want a headlamp.


3) Length:


____1-2 inches. (Keychain sized)
____2-4 inches. (Pocket carry)

4) Width:

____I don't care.
____I prefer a long narrow light.


5) What batteries do you want to use? Alkaline batteries are easier to find and less expensive but don't pack as much stored energy and are don't work well in cold temperatures. Lithium batteries have long shelf life (10+ years, great for stored emergency lights) and are not as affected by cold but must be kept dry and are more expensive. Rechargeable start expensive, but if used frequently pay off quickly.

____I want common Alkaline batteries. (AA, AAA, C, D)
____I want lithium batteries. (coin cells, CR123, AAA, AA...)

CR123 are okay, with a recommendation of "unprotected" brand.


6) How much light do you want? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).

____I want to read a map, or find a light switch, in a dark room. (5-10 lumens)
____I want to walk around a generally paved area. (15-20 lumens)
____I want to walk unpaved trails. (40 lumens)


7) Throw vs Flood: Which do you prefer, lights that flood an area with a wide beam, or lights that "throw" with a tightly focused beam? Place an "X" on the line below.

Throw (distance)--------------------X--|----------------------Flood/close-up
Prefer an ability to "focus" the bezel. I seem to do about 50/50, but never have a good idea of when I'm going to be in the dark.



9) Durability: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Self-defense, Survival.)

8) Switch Type:


____I want a momentary switch. (Only stays on while held down.)
With the option to have continuous on.

9) Switch Location:

Preferred, not essential. I want a push switch on the back end of the body.


10) Operational Modes: Check all that apply.

____A simple on-off is fine for me.

11) Is it important whether the body is metal or plastic/composite?

____I don't care.


12) Special Needs: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Circle any below or write in your own comment(s).


____Waterproof – how deep: Puddle/shallow stream Proof

Strongly preferred Built-in second (or spare) lamp or filament

Preferred Wrist/Neck Lanyard
Strongly Preferred Kobuton/self defense features
 
I do have one unique requirement. I need a flashlight having no "electronics". This means no LED's, no "driver" circuits, ability to use batteries w/o "protection" circuits. Xenon is fine, if the light does not have an electronic driver. Resistor/capacitor/inductor based circuits are fine, transister/diode based ones are not.

Oops, I missed this line at first. My recommendation went poof after reading this.

Welcome to Candle Power Forums!
 
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The Ra Clicky certainly has a LED and plenty of circuitry.

IMHO your best bet is the Surefire G2, 6P or E2E. Surefire lights are legendary for their reliability and I recommend you run the lamp for at least 1 hour (one full set of batteries) before you place your full confidence in it. A spare bulb is always a good investment as well.

Personally I would go for the E2E, but the choice is truly yours.
 
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Can I ask why you need to eliminate electronics from the affair? They really do well for making an extremely useable light.

I think that the xenon versions of the Parat X-treme lights are free of electronics, but I am not entirely certain. I do know that they are certified as intrinsically safe and may meet your needs that way.

http://www.pilatorch.com/parat_gx1.html

I got the PX1 xag. Liking it!
 
If your looking for another, with the addition of self defense features mentioned at the end, I'd recommend the E2D...this will give you 2 lamp options (NOT including the Lumens Factory lamps), the MN02 (25 lumens for 2.5hrs) and MN03 (60 lumens for 1.15hrs.). Get an SC3 (also water/crush-proof) that can hold the other lamp and 4 batteries. Either this or the E2e (lacks the defense features found in the E2D).

The G2/6P/C2 are also good recommendations, but these lack the runtime available with the E2 lights/lamps.
 
I'm also curious about the "No Electronics Allowed" part. Why?

*scratches head*

I'm guessing 3 things;

1) Has to be EMP "proof"
2) Can't have any electronics that may interfere w/ sensitive equipment
3) He works some-where around large magnetics fields that would interfere (i.e. ruin) a light with sensitive electronic components.
 
Seems that Your 2nd point is "not too much light".

I really dont like them (never had) but: Maglite 2AA

... except for the bulb lifetime of 1.5 sets of batteries and that they tend to switch themselves on when pocketed, they are quite a value for the money.


personally - when I would not mind making all the unnecessary battery waste - I would go for a SF E2 with the low output MN02 lamp assembly with these requests.
Or, better, a comparable light but running on bi-pin bulbs and then putting lower power bulbs into, like Streamlight Scorpion and such ...



PS: I am also curious, because I totally switched away from these lights to LED, which in this output and size class easily overrules incans:
have there some led lights been tested and did worsen the situation?
(interfering with equpiment, been killed from EMP/magnetic field, ...)
 
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