Remounting work

[Codiak]

So, I'd like to cleanup the outside of my light, previous turns used varying tools has left me with 3 sections of very different finishes

When put together they look much like a 2 d mag handle with one end plugged tight.

I'll post a picture tomorrow, but think a bored out rod with one closed end.


I can put a live center in the open end, but if I use the jaws on the bottom side I'll not be able to cut the whole piece.

Could I reply on pressure for the live center to hold the piece against a block in the jaw?

Is there a right way to do this?
How about a safe way?

 

[gadget_lover]

I would not try that way, since you will have a problem if the tool digs in and sticks. I'm assuming the end is rounded. I'm also assuming that you don't want to mar the end by drilling a spot for a center. If you shape the block such that it cups the end and add some two sided tape you might be OK with super light cuts. Spin it by hand to make sure you are not off center. You don't want to accidentally take a big cut on the first spin.

A better way to do it is to glue (cheap epoxy or hot melt) a plug to the end so that you have something to grip. Use a 4 jaw and you can dial it in despite it not being perfectly centered. Use the tailstock with a bulldog center in the open end. When done, heat it to loosen the glue and it will break right off.

I have some neat 'fixturing metal' that melts at low temperatures ( below boiling water) that I can literally cast around the end of something like that to give me something to grab. IT only takes a few minutes to melt and pour it into a mold. It machines just like aluminum, so I can just cut right through it. ( http://www.rotometals.com/Low-Melting-Alloys-s/21.htm ) When done, dunk in boiling water for a minute and it melts off. It's reusable.

Daniel

 

[Codiak]

Thanks for the feedback. I'll look at some type of slight recess holder with double sided tape

The solid end is faced flat.... The internal bore has a cut out where the drill was first used, the metal is only 10mm think there but meant for a mount still tbd

If I had the I'd just recut the section... Will fix this on the next light to begin with ;)

Too bad herculiner acts like an insulator or I'd just cover up the ugly exterior

 

[precisionworks]

Is there a right way to do this?
How about a safe way?

The right way is normally the safe way :)

you don't want to mar the end by drilling a spot for a center.

The normal "center drill" (like the 2 at lower left in the photo) leaves a deep drill hole with a cone shaped rim. There is an alternative, called a spotting drill (aka spotter) like the 3 standing upright:

The SD is most often used to provide a small depression that allows a larger drill to start at the desired location. For what you're doing, it provides a shallow V-shaped surface that a sharp live center will engage. It will leave a mark at the center of the tailcap, but the mark need not be deep - somewhere over 1mm and under 2mm. Once the open end is gripped on the inside and the tail end is supported by the live center, you can machine everything except the small area directly around the live center point.

Not a perfect solution, as the live center is engaged on only the sharp point instead of the center cone, but pretty safe.

 

[Codiak]

I bored a larger diameter tube and left it as a mount in my chuck, then put a lip on the bottom on my light so I could turn the complete light.

I then did as suggested and hit every number on the dial after tighting all the adjustments.
Given the remount I'm very pleased with the final turns, thanks for the assist!

Now I did say this was 3 seperate parts....

and for those who want a size reference

With my light, the tail cap and head are shown.


This is a new dive light which will hit the water this weekend. not sure I want to put the led and batteries in prior to a checkout dive on the housing.

I'll be posting a full design for discussion in the diving section soon... quick details..
3x18650, LFlex & Hallsw from TaskLED... and an Cree XM-L, topped off with an Ahorton aspheric and 5.5mm of Acrylic.

Not sure what color yet... but I'm leaning blue, using the heat cured Molyresin

Only remaining mechanical work is to mill a slot for in a Piezo Switch..... but since I haven't used my mill attachment...perhaps I'll wait until I know this works first!!!!!

 

[Anglepoise]

Finish looks great.............

 

[wquiles]

Finish looks great.............

+1

Looking good!

 

[will]

I have been looking into doing some different coatings - Moly Resin, Cerakote, and Duracoat. They all require a sandblasted finish for the coatings to adhere properly. ( it seems, in a pinch, you could get by with sanded finish ) Check out the various web sites for surface preparation . ( http://www.molyresin.com has this information )

This is probably a case where a nice smooth finish is not the best..