Reverse clickies - why?

[Brewer]

I remember reading about fwd vs rev clickies when I first visited this site. IIRC the reason the Quarks, for example, had to use a rev clicky was because of the cycling UI.

But surely the UI doesn't know where the click is - it just knows it has power, then it doesn't, then it does. So why can't I supply momentary power, release, apply again, and so on, enjoying momentary operation in any available mode - then lock it in with a firmer push when I want it to stay on?

Seems to me the reverse clicky assumes you want to switch modes of an already-operating light, whereas surely it is more likely you want to find the right mode before you start?!

Am I missing something obvious?

 

[pjandyho]

I hear you. I have problems with reverse clickies too. I really disliked them but there are people here who swears by reverse clickies. Seems to be very predominant in Chinese made lights. Are there any lights manufactured in the US using reverse clicky?

 

[mvyrmnd]

I don't mind reverse clickies, depending on the UI of the light. I find my Quark easier to use with the reverse clicky. In fact, I'm sure that my Jet III-M would be easier to program with a reverse clicky.

My Tri-EDC is nice with a forward clicky. Since it always comes on in high, it's quick and easy to get to low with a "tap-tap-click". The quark, since it has the twist for high/moonlight doesn't need to quickly tap to get to the mode I want.

I quite like having momentary, though...

 

[yellow]

reverse are much cheaper to build,
and the can be built shorter and smaller. (dont ask me why)
... both is a major point, especially in budget lights


and they are easier to operate/"understand" for non flashaholics
(if they are able to find the switch, located at the end of a flashlight)

 

[Lynx_Arc]

Reverse clickies tend to be more robust than forward clickies and will not come on accidentally in transit as easily. Try pressing a reverse clicky in half way and see if it comes on and do the same for a forward clicky and think about tossing one in luggage or a bag with a bunch of other stuff. If the forward clicky has no lockout it could be put in a bind and be on and drain the batteries dead while the forward clicky has to be clicked all the way in and then released out to activate.

 

[Outdoorsman5]

You can use a forward clicky in place of a reverse clicky. I learned this a few years ago with my Fenix P2D, LD20's, & LD10. I bought forward clickies for them from 4sevens simply because I did not like reverse clickies (I don't think you can buy forward clickies any more for the fenix LD20 & LD10.). The only advantage a reverse clicky has is that is is shorter and can allow the light to tailstand. Most forward clickies protrude out unless they have an elongated frame around them. I have 9 Quarks. 3 of them are the tactical versions that came with a forward clicky & the rest are the regular versions that came with a reverse clicky. I bought a forward clicky for every single one. I even got a flat forward clicky for my turbo quark just so it would/could tailstand & still have momentary on. My edc is a quark AA R5 Regular UI with a deep carry pocket clip and a forward clicky. You do not have to "click" it to get the light to change modes....just lightly press release & press again & again until you get the output level you want then click it. Very nice.

 

[Chrisdm]

Im a team leader for a search and rescue team and make recommendations to the county for gear... i seek reverse clickies for our team for 2 reasons. Reverse clickies are harder to activate, making them less likely to activate in a pack or holster inadvertently... also during a search our visual range can change from a few feet to a few hundred meters again and again, so the ability to change levels easily without having to turn the light off is also crucial. So reverse clickies are much preferred for our field use.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[Brewer]

I even got a flat forward clicky for my turbo quark just so it would/could tailstand & still have momentary on.

That sounds exactly what I'm after. Where from? Are they still available? Tailstanding is handy, but physical protection against unintended operation is perfect. I don't mind a bit of extra length if it means I get both.

Now to persuade some talented modder to make one for the S12...

 

[kramer5150]

I am split even 50/50 on this one. I think both types offer strengths and weaknesses that offset each other, and I can very easily get used to either UI.

One thing thats a near-must have for me is a lockout tailcap with that forward switch. I have had several accidental turn-ons both pocket and pack carrying my E2L and L1T-V2... learned this one the hard way. Fortunately both of these have LOTCs, as long as I can remember to use it.

A LOTC is a feature I definitely look for in all my lights, regardless of switch type.

 

[Outdoorsman5]

That sounds exactly what I'm after. Where from? Are they still available? Tailstanding is handy, but physical protection against unintended operation is perfect. I don't mind a bit of extra length if it means I get both.

You can find them - HERE

By the way, I have edc'd lights with forward clickies in my front pocket for 2 1/2 years, and have never had one get switched on accidentally. I do agree though that it seems logical that a reverse clicky would be harder to turn on accidentally, but so far so good with my beloved forward clickies. I admit thought that when I throw my lights in a bag for a trip, I do twist the tail to lock them out just to be on the safe side.

 

[TMedina]

I hate reverse clickies - to activate a light is an extra step which isn't a big deal under normal circumstances; but in panic mode, I can see myself screwing that up quite easily.

Also, noise discipline - which is not a major issue for 99% of flashlight users, I realize, but I hate the sound of a click and no light; I much prefer the "click and light" or even the half tap for brief flashes of light.

-Trevor

 

[bkumanski]

I hope this isn't too far off topic, but why do MOST of our lights have forward or reverse clickies anyway? Isn't it cheaper to use electronic "button" switches and just program the modes into the circuit itself? Not too sure if that made enough sense, but a good example is the Inforce line. The push button is similar to a tv remote button. They are quiet (no clicking, so its good for tactical environments) and they don't really wear out because there are no moving parts per-se to malfunction. Does this add significant cost to the lights board to handle the on-off ability of the light? The nice thing about my Inforce light is the switch is still capable of momentary too (it has a half and full press built in with a stepped boot that activates one or two contacts in the tailcap depending on how far it's pressed). Do switches like this have inherent drain on the battery? I think the new Streamlights (stinger series) also use an electronic switch instead of a "clickie" style.

 

[kramer5150]

I hope this isn't too far off topic, but why do MOST of our lights have forward or reverse clickies anyway? Isn't it cheaper to use electronic "button" switches and just program the modes into the circuit itself? Not too sure if that made enough sense, but a good example is the Inforce line. The push button is similar to a tv remote button. They are quiet (no clicking, so its good for tactical environments) and they don't really wear out because there are no moving parts per-se to malfunction. Does this add significant cost to the lights board to handle the on-off ability of the light? The nice thing about my Inforce light is the switch is still capable of momentary too (it has a half and full press built in with a stepped boot that activates one or two contacts in the tailcap depending on how far it's pressed). Do switches like this have inherent drain on the battery? I think the new Streamlights (stinger series) also use an electronic switch instead of a "clickie" style.

Personally I have always found mechanical click switches (of either type) are more reliable than electronic switches. Many times they can be easily replaced or repaired with some light oil. I only have three E-switch lights (Zebralights, Fenix), and all 3 have had issues of varying degree. So its not a good representation across a population, but its enough to deter me from acquiring more.

Yes E-switches do exhibit parasitic drain, its usually insignificant with the CPF popular lights and brands. I have seen some poorly designed E-switches that can drain 3xAAA in a week.

 

[Brewer]

Thanks everyone for the comments (and the link) - I get it now. Smaller, cheaper, less prone to accidental activation.

It probably also makes the instructions for multi-mode lights easier to write - "turn on, half-push to change modes" rather than explaining about 2sec delays and full-push-without-releasing etc.


I still prefer a forward clicky.

 

[TMedina]

Oh, amen. I tolerate reverse clickies, I don't like them.

-Trevor

 

[jupello]

I don't fully agree with the statement that reverse clickies would be less likely to be accidentally activated. It takes much smaller push for reverse clicky light to fully activate and STAY on. The same amount of pressure might just activate forward clicky light for a few seconds and then let it shut down again after the pressure is gone. The design of the light (how well the switch is protected) is the most important thing against accidental activations.

I mostly go for the forward clicky lights because of the ability to use momentary activation.. but it's not only that, the UI's made for forward clicky lights tend to be more "attractive" too.

 

[thedub808]

I'd much rather have momentary on. I have a solarforce l2, and bought a foward clicky. The only thing is if you try to go " on off on" too quickly it will change the mode. :thumbsdow