Sharpening help

[webley445]

I originally had a really long post with some background on my statements but accidentallt clicked "back and lost it, so here goes again, but shorter and more to the point.

I totally suck at sharpening knives. They always come out duller than when I first started. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif What do I do?

And while we're at it, how do I sharpen my Spyderco? Isn't there a special sharpener I need? Any advice on its use?What about ceramic or diamond sticks for my other knives?

I really prefer plain edge in small pocket knives, like around 2" blades. I love the razor sharp edge on my knives when they are factory new, how do I get it back? I am not abusive with my knives but they do dull eventually. What about the leather "strops" I see barbers using? I figure they could help towards getting the kind of edge I like. I love the edge a knife has when first bought and factory fresh. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

I just can't seem to get the hang of using stones, do those attachments to hold the knife at proper angle really help? I'm not sure that would even help as bad as I have been in the past trying to sharpen blades. Am I gonna have to continue taking them places to be sharpened [I hate having to pay someone to do somehting I should get a handle on /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif].

I would appreciate ANY help, and I'm sure to have more questions. Thanks.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

I do not do well sharpening knives, also. I was thinking about getting a Cheif's Choice electric sharpener. Many models to choose from. The 300 sells for $40 to $60.

Bill

 

[Joe Talmadge]

http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&selm=P08Ka.11140%24Fy6.4162%40sccrnsc03&rnum=1

The above should do it. If not, hit the link below and then click on "read the rest of this article" at the bottom of the very first article. This is the newest version of the Sharpening FAQ


http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&frame=right&th=14018b6a5e2c3634&seekm=bdumna%244ui%241%40coranto.ucs.mun.ca#link1

 

[ledfanfromjuno]

I read tons of those free faqs and books. You can save lots of your time by just doing the folloing.

Get:
1. The spyderco sharpmaker
2. The diamond sticks for the sharpmaker if you want
3. A klawhorn redi edge pro.

That is all you need. Usually all you need is the spyderco. It comes with its own book and video. You only need to watch the video for the book is redundant info. For any knife that is to long for the sharpmaker, like a japanese sword, you can use the redi edge. Just be careful not to cut yourself.

The rediedge can ruin the beautiful edge on a well sharpened knife. But it is functional. It makes it sharp. It is very useful. You'll see what I mean when you use it.

If you want, you could go one step further and get an angle holder by the razoredgesystems. Then you could get a couse and medium combo stone by norton or another good name. With this stone and the angle holder you could put a quick working edge on ANy damaged blade. Thereafter, all you'd need is the sharpmaker. It's just that when a blade gets really dull and wide at the edge you need to thin the blade fast. The waterstone is a lot faster. You definately need the angle holder with all flat stones. Maybe in time you could do it freehand but not in the beginning.

 

[flownosaj]

I second the Spyderco sharpmaker--I've never found anything that's so idiot-proof (not to imply anything /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif) that still works so well.

You can take an hour and get all the knives in the house supersharp and then get all your friends to do theirs...not bad for $40. Then you can work on the scissors and fishhooks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

-Jason

 

[MeridianTactical]

I'll third the The spyderco sharpmaker!!

Its the ONLY one I recomend, and the one I use to sharpen up my stuff.

I can now shave hair with my knives!

Chris

 

[Mark_van_Gorkom]

Bought a Sharpmaker a week back, but it didn't come with book or video /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsdown.gif The package only mentions a book anyway, but then it seems to be an older model (203MF). The retail shop adviced me to email Spyderco, so I filled in their web form, but they haven't responded yet. I think I have figured out how to use it, but being a complete newbie at knife sharpening I'm a bit concerned about ruining a knife.

 

[ewick]

I don't have a Sharpmaker, but it seems as though there is no way to keep your working angle consistent. If that's the case, I would go with a Lansky or *something* with guide rods.

 

[MeridianTactical]

ewick, The Lansky system was such a pain!!!!!!!!!!! I had used one prior to the sharpmaker and sold it at a big loss with a smile! I have used the sharpmaker for years and love it. The Lansy system took too much time, required oil and the clamp scrached the blade...

NOW, I sell both systems on my site so ultimatly it does not matter from a $$ point of view to me which one you get. But The sharpmaker is my recomandation.

Just keep the knive blade vertical and finish on the same side of the blade and you will be shaving in no time!

Chris

 

[Bill.H]

Take a look here.

Steve has tried all the different ones and gives the good & bad of each.

 

[Joe Talmadge]

ewick: Sharpmaker only requires that you're capable of holding the knife vertical, which most people can do very accurately instinctively.

The biggest negative to the sharpmaker is that it's got only two set angles (for the 204) or one set angle (for the 203). If your knife has a higher-angle bevel than the set ones, the first time you sharpen you'll have to grind in new angles -- basically, a re-profiling job that can require the removal of a lot of metal. After that first sharpening everything is a breeze, but that reprofiling can literally take an hour or two if you have a highly wear-resistant modern steel and just the brown-grey "medium" stones to do the reprofiling on.

So, the thing I recommend, besides buying the sharpmaker, pick yourself up a 6"x2" x-coarse hone of some sort. The first time you sharpen a knife on the sharpmaker, mark the edge with a magic marker and take a few strokes. If the magic marker is only gone at the very top of the edge bevel, you've got a big re-profiling job ahead. So, now lay the x-coarse hone against one of the Sharpmaker's sticks and use it to grind down the edge until all the magic marker is gone. Switch x-coarse hone to other side and repeat. Voila, you've reprofiled to the exact angle, in a few minutes instead of a few hours. Now that the angle is close, you can use whatever technique you want to work the sharpmaker.

One final note on the Sharpmaker. You should definitely get the video and check it out. I can't remember if Spyderco is still using a counting method (e.g., "do X strokes alternately on the points of each stone, then X strokes on the flats, then switch to finer stones and repeat" kind of thing). I, like nearly 100% of professional knifemakers, use the burr method instead, since it's the only way to guarantee a sharp edge along the entire length ... the burr method can be used just fine on the Sharpmaker. It's outlined in the FAQ above, along with tips and tricks on edge angles, finishing grits, etc.

Joe

 

[MicroE]

The model 204 Spyderco Sharpmaker is the way to go. I sharpen everything with mine (except the lawnmower blades--they require serious metal removal by a bench grinder).

I also own the Lansky and hate it.
---Marc

 

[ewick]

I'm really surprised no one likes the Lansky. I've used one for years, and love it. Like I said, no Sharpmaker here, I guess I may be missing out.

I just can't buy into non-guided sharpeners. By holding the blade vertical, I'm not following the exact working angle with each stroke. I might be +1 degree, -2 degrees, whatever, but it's not exact. And because of that, I'm effectively rounding off the edge rather than sharpening it.

And I never use oil. Never. Using oil on honing stones makes the stones hold the shavings. Then during each sharpening stroke, the dross from the stone is drug across the edge of the blade, creating microscopic gouges and nicks, instead of creating a smooth, polished edge, which is what I want. When the stone gets dirty, I just wipe it clean with a rag. If I want a microscopically serrated edge, I simply don't follow up with finer and finer stones.

I will agree that the clamp on the Lansky can scratch the blade, but I just sandwich the blade between cardboard - like the backing from a notepad.

Either way, the Lansky may not work for everyone, but it works out great for me. But you've all made me curious about the Sharpmaker...I'd like to try one just to see what all the fuss is about.

 

[sunspot]

I'm with you ewick. I have the Lansky and can put on a shaving edge with it but with this many people backing the Spyderco, I need to try one.

 

[Mark_van_Gorkom]

[ QUOTE ]
Mark_van_Gorkom said:
Bought a Sharpmaker a week back, but it didn't come with a book. The retail shop adviced me to email Spyderco, so I filled in their web form, but they haven't responded yet.

[/ QUOTE ]

Update: just found a manual in the mail /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

 

[d'mo]

I'm a big fan of the Lansky sharpening systems.

http://www.lansky.com/systems.html

 

[Towelie]

if you are new to sharpening the Lansky Diamond system is idiot proof, but for overall ease of not having to deal with the clamp and all that shiz it takes to get it setup, I would go with the Spyderco. However, the Lansky can get definite angles on blades which might be something that you're into.

 

[Kanai]

I have been using the Spyderco Sharpmaker for years. Maybe there is something better. But I really like the Spyderco. Just my 2 cents. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yellowlaugh.gif

 

[droopy170]

Can't remember where I read it but the Lansky is supposedly about 3 degrees off of what is marked. Sharpmaker gets my vote. Of course there is always the EdgePro system at the higher dollar amounts. For those that don't know, Joe is one of the most trusted and knowledgeable experts on several knife forums.

Droopy

 

[Joe Talmadge]

[ QUOTE ]
ewick said:
I'm really surprised no one likes the Lansky. I've used one for years, and love it. Like I said, no Sharpmaker here, I guess I may be missing out.

[/ QUOTE ]

For the record, I've never seen such an anti-Lansky crowd before! Most people like their Lanskys from what I can tell, though I notice many switch to something like the Sharpmaker. The only thing Sharpmaker folks ever abandon it for is the Edge Pro, a system that costs over $100, which is a pretty good sign that it's working for people.

[ QUOTE ]

I just can't buy into non-guided sharpeners. By holding the blade vertical, I'm not following the exact working angle with each stroke. I might be +1 degree, -2 degrees, whatever, but it's not exact. And because of that, I'm effectively rounding off the edge rather than sharpening it.

[/ QUOTE ]

Are you saying this because you've actually used the Sharpmaker and gotten bad results? If so, then definitely the Sharpmaker might not be right for you. But if this is just theory, I can tell you that the amount of support you're seeing here for the Sharpmaker should convince you that perhaps you should wonder if the theory applies in practice. I can assure you, it does not take a lot of skill to get a hair-popping sharp edge on the Sharpmaker, any theories about rounded edges to the contrary.

[ QUOTE ]

And I never use oil. Never. Using oil on honing stones makes the stones hold the shavings. Then during each sharpening stroke, the dross from the stone is drug across the edge of the blade, creating microscopic gouges and nicks, instead of creating a smooth, polished edge, which is what I want. When the stone gets dirty, I just wipe it clean with a rag. If I want a microscopically serrated edge, I simply don't follow up with finer and finer stones.

[/ QUOTE ]

I'm with you for synthetic stones and diamond hones. On natural hones, based on Juranitch's advice I tried not using oil. What I found was that it worked fine for some types of natural stones, but other types of stones would fill up and lose cutting ability so quickly that it just wasn't as simple as Juranitch claims. Some natural stones fill up too quickly to make oil-less sharpening practical.

[ QUOTE ]
Either way, the Lansky may not work for everyone, but it works out great for me. But you've all made me curious about the Sharpmaker...I'd like to try one just to see what all the fuss is about.

[/ QUOTE ]

With a little practice, I think you'll find the Sharpmaker is quicker to set up and use than clamp-based systems, and can get you very close to the same accuracy (though something like a Razor Edge guide will of course give a bit more accuracy). That said, if you're good on the Lansky, there's really little reason to switch.

Joe