Simple design... what do you think?

Candle Power Forums

Help Support Candle Power:

logicnerd411

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 24, 2002
Messages
1,246
City & State/Province
Fairfax, VA
madmax123.jpg


Comments? Questions? Flame mail?

Dan
 
[ QUOTE ]
McGizmo said:
Which end do you load the battery from?

[/ QUOTE ]

I...... have no idea. Most likely from the Kroll side.

bucken, how do you keep the NX-05 in? Did you make it smaller?

Dan
 
NX-05 is the Lumileds reflector optic for the LED.

Where does the penny come in? Is it soldered into the tube as the neg battery contact? Cute idea. I like the use of an old penny (made of copper) since new ones are made of zinc and harder to solder. I think the changeover was in the early 70's, in case anyone wonders. The penny in the picture is from the 50's or earlier (because of the wheat stalks).
 
Yes, the NX05 (standard Lumiled optic) had to be sanded down to a smaller diameter to fit. The burr in the I.D., created by the tubing cutter, does a great job of keeping everything held together. The switch is momentary only, which is OK because there is no special heat sink.
fc980225.jpg

fc980210.jpg


Edit: A penny is used inside the plastic thread protector to make negative contact when the cap is pushed in.
fc980217.jpg
 
Soldered a piece of bent shim stock to the Mad Max. It rubs against the inside of the tube. The spring keeps the penny from touching the copper tube until the cap is pushed.
fc98021e.jpg
 
Bucken, that's a really clever design, nice work. What keeps the thread protector and penny from falling off the back? Just friction?

How hot does the light get if you run it for say a minute? Do you think adding a metal slug around the MadMax would help?
 
logicnerd, the krolltailcap threads are too small to acommodate a 123 cell /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif you would need to either add a piece in between, or make the battery come out the top.

bucken - wow!
 
I just realized - - there are two designs in this thread . . . a drawing by logicnerd411 and a set of photos by bucken. I like 'em both, but have not heard much about the first one.

Logicnerd411: what stage are you at with this? Are you developing this from the ground up, or have you put any hardware together? Or are you testing it as a concept?
 
paulr,
Friction holds it on. It's a perfect fit.
After a minute, or two, it doesn't really even get warm, yet.
A metal slug would definitely help. Actually, I've added a copper heat sink around the Mad Max since the photos were taken. Used Artic Alumina to keep it in place.
fc4fb798.jpg
 
bucken,

You are well on the way to pioneering low cost design. Have you considered lengthening your heatsink as long as possible without hitting the optic? That and some heatsink paste (not epoxy) for better transfer to the tube and you may achieve continuous duty capability!
Very creative!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Larry
 
This was just a drawing because a person on CPF is sending me some tubing, which I would try to implement this drawing with. I don't have many skills, so I'll need to improvise...

Rothrandir, I don't know how I'm going to solve that problem yet... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif

Dan
 
logicnerd411,
Please let me apologize for using up so much of your thread. I didn't realize there would be so many questions.

To get back to your design, you will need a way to hold the optic (and thus everything behind it) in place. It's already been pointed out that the Kroll switch threads are too small for a CR123 to pass. What is the tubing material? I've got a simple idea for the switch section to connect to the body, but the machining may be too complex. I'll see if I can come up with some sort of illustration.
 
Ask tvodrd up there... he's the one sending me the stuff. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif I don't know the material, but OD = .750 and ID = .650.

And by all means use up more of my thread!! I want to learn more about your light!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Dan
 
logicnerd411,
I just measured a couple Surefire 123's and they measure .650" O.D. Sounds like you may have a VERY tight fit.

The copper tubing I used measures .750" O.D., and .680" I.D.
 
Back
Top