Sky-Ray S-R5 XPG-R4

[glenda17]

Recieved this today, it outperforms any flashlight I own, surprised to find it brighter than any of the Q5 Deerelight dropins I own, even looks brighter than my big Aakoray P7. Draws 1.2A.

Build quality is very nice as well.


I'm not up to speed on this new LED (XPG-R4) are there better LEDs than this now, its quite impressive.

Only issue is the transition from hotspot to corona isn't smooth.


My dogs were barking loudly tonight and I fired this baby up to see a big beautiful red fox clear as day, worth the $20 some odd bucks right there even if it breaks tomorrow.

 

[dealgrabber2002]

Picture or link?

Edit: found on DX.

 

[glenda17]

Yea thats where I got it, 4 days of use and no isses, I can't believe the output with only 1.2A on a single 18650 battery, LED technology has come a long way.


I take it this is the top of the line cree LED now?

 

[mfm]

I take it this is the top of the line cree LED now?

If the DX description is correct then it is only an R4 (and R5 is brighter). But the drop-in in the Skyray says R5 and who knows if the other supposed R5 lights/dropins on DX are really R5 or just R4. I wouldn't loose sleep over it anyway... Not as long as the driver and machining is better on the Skyray than on the UniqueFire-lights atleast.

 

[richardcpf]

Does it keep the same brightness for the two hour of runtime? is the clicky replaceable?

This is the only thing holding me back from buying it. Looks good, even if it is a copy of the seraph

 

[mfm]

Does it keep the same brightness for the two hour of runtime?

Using a single 18650? No, current draw at 4.11v on max was 1.2A, current draw at 3.84v was 0.9A. But better than pure direct drive I guess? Seems I won't get any two hours with these blue Trustfire 2500 mAh either...

Got mine two days ago. Nice light, no rattle from the lens or battery (18650). I think I had some dust on the reflector and lens, and a few spots in the anodizing, but generally quite good. Everything is easy to take apart (didn't try the switch, I think it's OK as it is) and I improved the heatsinking by using aluminium stripes, now the whole light gets evenly warm (but not hot).

 

[shark_za]

So tell more!?

Its a Seraph copy, does it have a forward clicky or reverse?

Is it an exact clone, will the P7 Turbo head work in it?
Does it hold the cells in place even with the front removed?

 

[skunknuts79]

Using a single 18650? No, current draw at 4.11v on max was 1.2A, current draw at 3.84v was 0.9A. But better than pure direct drive I guess? Seems I won't get any two hours with these blue Trustfire 2500 mAh either...

Got mine two days ago. Nice light, no rattle from the lens or battery (18650). I think I had some dust on the reflector and lens, and a few spots in the anodizing, but generally quite good. Everything is easy to take apart (didn't try the switch, I think it's OK as it is) and I improved the heatsinking by using aluminium stripes, now the whole light gets evenly warm (but not hot).

Hey, I ordered this light on 2/19 (my first DX experience). It then became backordered, and will hopefully be stocked tomorrow....Anyway, I have become fascinated by flashlihjts over the last couple weeks (thanks to CPF), and would appreciate some advice on how to optimize this light.

I bought some extra o-rings, as some had reported that the lens was loose, even with the bezel tightened all the way. My specific question (I am a total newbie, and not mechanically inclined so much) is how to go about increasing the heat sinking. I have read about others using aluminum foil to this end, and would appreciate details on what you mean about using strips of foil. I don't want to mess anything up by shorting something like the emitter, battery, etc. (if that's even a possibility), or by directing too much heat near the battery.

Any other simple tips/tricks you all know on how to optimize my light when it (eventually) arrives would be much appreciated! I ordered the #6105 charger, plus a pair of the blue 2600mah 18650s to round out the purchase. Oh yeah, I also got a Tank e07 for my girlfriend, as she has been pissed about all the 'pointless' reading I have been doing regarding flashlights, lol.

Thanks much.

Best,
Skunknuts

 

[glenda17]

Its a reverse clickie, I don't like taking flashlights apart if I don't have to so can't answer you other question. To me it looks like a P60 host. SOB is bright, brightest damn light I have and I have a lot including a 2x18650 Aakoray P7.

 

[glenda17]

duoble p

 

[mfm]

Is it an exact clone, will the P7 Turbo head work in it?
Does it hold the cells in place even with the front removed?

Dunno about the turbo head, but someone tried a Seraph cell extender and that didn't work. If you want to use original parts then you should probably buy the original Seraph, it's not that expensive.

The cells won't fall out if that's what you mean, but they are pressed down by the spring of the P60-dropin (don't want to test by taking out the dropin after I got it to fit really tight).

 

[^Gurthang]

Unfortunately the Sky Ray is backordered.... I just ordered the same light w/ OP reflector [UniqueFire] plus a SMO reflector drop-in and a bunch of the #26110 buck drivers [good rep for moding]. I may try one of SB's 3 mode drivers [same one he uses in the L-Mini] later. Probably get a few of SB's forward clickies too.

 

[glenda17]

Unfortunately the Sky Ray is backordered.... I just ordered the same light w/ OP reflector [UniqueFire] plus a SMO reflector drop-in and a bunch of the #26110 buck drivers [good rep for moding]. I may try one of SB's 3 mode drivers [same one he uses in the L-Mini] later. Probably get a few of SB's forward clickies too.

I went with the Skylab because the Uniquefire only draw 1 amp vs 1.2A

 

[mfm]

I bought some extra o-rings, as some had reported that the lens was loose, even with the bezel tightened all the way. My specific question (I am a total newbie, and not mechanically inclined so much) is how to go about increasing the heat sinking. I have read about others using aluminum foil to this end, and would appreciate details on what you mean about using strips of foil.

I didn't use aluminium foil, I improved the heatsinking like this: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=3224978

I also read about the lens rattling, but I had no rattle whatsoever on my SkyRay. What o-rings did you order? The orange 28mm ones?

Also, I drain a new blue Trustfire 2500 mAh cell to 30% (from over 90%) in one hour on max.

 

[Pyranha]

Anyone tested this light with cr123a primaries?

In other words, how is the regulation while running down from original 6.0V?

I'm planning to buy those 4sevens flashlight food-primaries. A lot. For some nightfishing.

 

[^Gurthang]

Glenda,

Yep, I'm aware of the different driver in the UF vs. the SkyRay. Thats why I ordered drivers and a SMO reflector, do a "Phot Rod" on it. The DX 26110 is pretty simple to rework, so I'm going to crank up the current from 1.2 to 1.5A. I went to SB's site but the 3 mode driver I was looking for is out of stock.....

 

[skunknuts79]

I didn't use aluminium foil, I improved the heatsinking like this: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=3224978

I also read about the lens rattling, but I had no rattle whatsoever on my SkyRay. What o-rings did you order? The orange 28mm ones?

Also, I drain a new blue Trustfire 2500 mAh cell to 30% (from over 90%) in one hour on max.

Yeah, I got the 28mm orange ones. I like orange, actually, so it might go nicely with the orange tail cap. Good to hear yours didn't have a rattle, though....

So, the cut aluminum strip just sits in the head between the drop-in and the inside of the head? The heat then spreads from the head down through the body more easily? Sounds so easy, makes one wonder why the manufacturer doesn't add something like that automatically. Well, we all know why, actually.

Good to hear the run time was understated, if anything. I'm nervous that it is still back-ordered. Both because I don't want to wait forever, and also, because I hope that this batch is as well made as the first. It sounds like often a quality batch gets eaten up, and then things go downhill (I knew I should have pulled the trigger sooner). Well, it is a new product, so hopefully QC will still be decent.

Best,
Skunknuts

 

[^Gurthang]

Skunk,

Yeah, I missed the boat too on the first batch of SkyRay', hopefully the UF version's QC won't be too bad. Just hoping that I won't regret this....

 

[Black Rose]

Thats why I ordered drivers and a SMO reflector

Is it an XP-E/XP-G reflector or an XR-E reflector?

I've tried an XR-E SMO refector on my XP-G R5 drop-in, and while it works, it's not perfect. It does make the hotspot larger.

 

[mfm]

Yeah, I got the 28mm orange ones. I like orange, actually, so it might go nicely with the orange tail cap. Good to hear yours didn't have a rattle, though....

I ordered the 28mm o-rings two weeks ago, they have been "waiting for supplier" since then. They are probably too thick, but thought I'd try them anyway.

So, the cut aluminum strip just sits in the head between the drop-in and the inside of the head? The heat then spreads from the head down through the body more easily? Sounds so easy, makes one wonder why the manufacturer doesn't add something like that automatically. Well, we all know why, actually.

Well, P60 was originally for Xenon lamps where it didn't matter much if the bulb got very hot.