Smallest D26 head & clicky tail

recDNA

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I know the size of a 6P type head is mostly dictated by the size of p60 drop ins but I wonder if there is one smaller than the others?

I'm using a fivemega 18500 x 1 body and want to make my light small for pocket carry.

Also, what is the smallest clicky tailcap, preferably forward type clicky tail. I don't want to spend a fortune on it.

Oh, I almost forgot, I'm also looking for a deep carry pocket clip that will fit the setup I've described.

I think I'm going to use Nailbender's 3 mode 2.8 amp SST-50 in it with max mode only for short "show off" bursts.

I'm trying to get something a little smaller than my 6P or C2 that packs the same wallop.
 
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I know the size of a 6P type head is mostly dictated by the size of p60 drop ins but I wonder if there is one smaller than the others? I'm using a fivemega 18500 x 1 body and want to make my light small for pocket carry.
Also, what is the smallest clicky, preferably forward type clicky tail. I don't want to spend a fortune on it.
Z44 aka 6P's bezel is already the smallest
just take it off and inspect the bezel, you can see it is already very thin.
compare to the thread, you will see the Z44 is almost no space inside
why the overall size is big? its because the wall of the torch is thick
and the D26 drop in is big
 
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Surefire heads and tails are the most expensive. If we can't get smaller (and i still hope we can)can we get as small and cheaper?
 
Surefire heads and tails are the most expensive. If we can't get smaller (and i still hope we can)can we get as small and cheaper?
Even the diffuser made of a simple plastic, few metal rod and a diffuser plastic lense, costs you 32$
and the glue-ing of the lense is so bad, i can see it from the back
 
Surefire heads and tails are the most expensive. If we can't get smaller (and i still hope we can)can we get as small and cheaper?

There are a lot of Surefire knock offs out there that parts are way cheaper to get... I would suggest spending some time filling up a shopping cart over at lighthound.com with some stuff.

The smallest click tail cap would probably be a Z41 with a McClicky installed.

As for your question about the deep pocket clip there are a few clip options for both bezel up or bezel down but the only one I know of that would be deep pocket is the overready delrin tail shroud.
 
There was a head that was smaller in length but you wont find anything smaller in diameter. It would be impossible to go slimmer than the SF D26 size bezel. The shorter head I know of is the Fivemega heatsink head which is unavailable except on the aftermarket sales thread.

If you want cheaper go Solarforce. how much cheaper can you go than that ?
 
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Rec,

I could see a cut-down 6P style bezel and a non-reflector pill assembly [think Gizmo mule] but this would require some machining. For a tailcap I don't think I've seen any sort of "shorty" tailcap design that wasn't a custom made piece.


 
There are a lot of Surefire knock offs out there that parts are way cheaper to get... I would suggest spending some time filling up a shopping cart over at lighthound.com with some stuff.

The smallest click tail cap would probably be a Z41 with a McClicky installed.

As for your question about the deep pocket clip there are a few clip options for both bezel up or bezel down but the only one I know of that would be deep pocket is the overready delrin tail shroud.

Oh, I never knew the Delrin shroud had a clip. I was afraid the Z41 with McClicky was the smallest - afraid because it is by far the most expensive. I could put a Solarforce clicky on my 6P and use the Z41 in my new pocket light...just hoping to find something as small for a lot less dough.

I think I'll try the Solarforce L2 clip first. (only 5 bucks)

I prefer the Fivemega IMR18500 size body to the 16340 due to the extra battery life at 2.8 amps or even 1.5 amps sthe 3P is no good for me.

I know the width of the bezel is fixed but I thought some might be shorter.

I'll have to look up the Z21 tailcap - never heard of it before. Seems to be an archaic twisty that is no longer available? I hate twisties anyway. Z41 is small enough - just hoped someone had cloned a cheaper one that was as small.

G2 head is no good for high heat applications so I need a metal head.

I'm leaning toward buying a Solarforce head and tail and using a Z41 tail from a 6P with the Fivemega body and using the SOlarforce clicky on the 6P. The extra length won't matter so much on the 6P because it is too big for me to EDC anyway. If the Nailbender 2.8 amp SST-50 proves to be too hot too fast I'll try a 1.2 amp Dereelight low voltage R5. I think it's about the brightest low voltage R5 commercially available.
 
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Yes ive seen a SF 3P (discontinued)

I don't see how what I posted is the same as the 3P. The FM is cheaper and slimmer in the body. The integrated switch seems to decrease the overall size as well.

As for the head, there is not much that can be done. Even if you could source the FM Finhead, the extra width of the fins makes the light bulkier and can be a drag to draw out of a pocket. The smallest head seem to still be the standard Z44.

In regards to the battery and runtime, not much can be done either unless you go with the fatter 18mm size.

As for drop-in, I'd probably go with the 'anto' XP-G. The copper heatsinking and the efficiency of the XP-G will both be big pluses in a smaller P60/D26 host.
 
Solarforce L2m would be like a 3p. Just leave off the extention.
Also saw some on eBay, angel something?
Good luck and goodnight
 
I could put a Solarforce clicky on my 6P and use the Z41 in my new pocket light...just hoping to find something as small for a lot less dough.

Low cost tailcaps generally have low cost switches, which are not usually built for flashlights, but are adapted. Adapted switches are larger, making the caps designed for them, taller as well.


I know the width of the bezel is fixed but I thought some might be shorter.

Focusing on the stuff inside, the battery is in contact with the spring of the drop in, which continues up to the underside of the lens, which continues up to the underside of the bezel ring. Designing a bezel from scratch, options for making a shorter bezel would be a thinner bezel ring, thinner lens, or shorter drop in. ~85% of a bezel's length is the drop in, which by convention cannot be shortened and still be compatible.

Keeping to the P60 format, a shorter body/battery is the easiest, cheapest option.
 
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Solarforce Mini and Micro, both can be viewed in the Show your Solarforce thread in the flashlight collecting forum.
Both very small, nicely made and not expensive.
 
If you use any drop-in other than a Malkoff you will want to use the VitalGear F2 head so you don't block some of the beam. It is a nice compact P60 head that is more compact than the SF bezels because it slims down where the SF and clone heads have the large hex shape. It fits almost all E-series bodies (only a Leaf I have does not agree with it) including the slim, light VG clicky body the Sgt. mentioned. But of course it is no longer sold and I will likely never sell mine as long as I own a D26.
VME head, lens, and vitalgear body.
 
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Low cost tailcaps generally have low cost switches, which are not usually built for flashlights, but are adapted. Adapted switches are larger, making the caps designed for them, taller as well.




Focusing on the stuff inside, the battery is in contact with the spring of the drop in, which continues up to the underside of the lens, which continues up to the underside of the bezel ring. Designing a bezel from scratch, options for making a shorter bezel would be a thinner bezel ring, thinner lens, or shorter drop in. ~85% of a bezel's length is the drop in, which by convention cannot be shortened and still be compatible.

Keeping to the P60 format, a shorter body/battery is the easiest, cheapest option.

Yes, that's why I'm going withthe FM 18500 body. I'm going to keep my eyes open for a used Z41 I can pick up cheap too. My best bet might actually be a used 6P then just use the FM 18500 body. It will be a little shorter than a 6P but still have decent battery life and with an IMR18500 I can use a drop in that requires higher amp draw. I think 2.8 amps will be OK as long as I shut it down when it gets hot.
 

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