LED Zeppelin
Flashlight Enthusiast
I bought some of these in the GB and modded them with SMJLEDs. Here's a step-by-step:
1) Remove the PCB/LED unit.One of my lights luckily missed the crimping operation, and the PCB fell out with finger pressure. The others were crimped and required straightening with pliers and much more persuasion (read whacks) to extract the PCB. The metal is quite thin at the end of the head threads, and it is likely the straightening will shear off a portion of the first threads. Remove and continue leaving as much as possible. Don't try to clean up the end by removing more threads or the PCB might not stay put later.
Once you get it as straight as you can, you'll need to force it out. I removed the nose of a pen, placed it on a hard surface with the nose up, set the LED of the assembled light (without battery) on the tip of the pen nose, and gave the end of the light a few whacks with screwdriver handle. You will win.
The legs of the LED have probably buckled, the base of the LED hit the top of the inductor coil, and the plastic housing of the coil has probably lost a few bits. No problem, it should still work.
2) Remove the stock LED. Save the tiny O-ring on the LED, heat the LED leg connections as you pull the LED off. This part doubles as a test of pain threshold or insensitivity to heat. Once the LED is off, heat the PCB holes and suck out the remaining solder with a solder removal tool.
3) Prep and mount SMJLED. Bend the legs of the SMJLED into a yoke with the proper spacing for the PCB holes (1/4") and so the legs are parallel. Insert the SMJLED into the holes observing correct polarity. The longer leg of the SMJLED is (+), and the PCB is marked on the underside. Install the tiny O-ring on the SMJ and butt it against the LED shoulder. Your objective when soldering the legs to the PCB is to have a gap of 0.220" between the top of the O-ring, and the top of the PCB. This is the dimension of the head from the PCB shoulder, down to the backside of the reflector. This is somewhat important as it will affect the focus if you're off. I determined this by lighting a loose SMJ by squeezing a coin cell between the legs, and playing around with the position and beam in an empty head. I found that installing the tiny O-ring on the SMJLED, and butting it against the back of the reflector, I duplicated the best beam. To get the proper SMJLED position when soldering, it helps to gently squeeze the untrimmed legs, sandwiching the PBC. Again a test of heat resistant fingertips. Simply reheat and nudge if you get it wrong. Only when you are satisfied, trim the legs of the SMJ.
Note: I measured the voltage across the legs of the stock LED running on a Rayovac Max alkaline, and I got 3.6 V. I didn't measure current though.
4) Reinsert PCB/LED into head. This is pretty self-explanatory, but be sure to press on the very edge of the PCB, not on the components or center. Be sure the tiny O-ring is on the SMJ beforehand.
5) Crimp. I didn't do this, but it may be advisable to ensure a better contact between the PCB and the head.
6) Enjoy.
Here are some pics:
A stock head, PCB/LED removed, SMJLED mounted & removed LED, finished unit
Stock head and PCB unit, SMJLED head and soldered, untrimmed unit
Beamshot: SMJLED Clone, Stock Clone, Arc AAA-P. All on fresh Energizer Li primaries, 10" from white wall, F4 & 1/4 sec.
Personally I think the SMJLED clone has a great beam. Great spill, decent hotspot, minimal artifacts, and uniform tint. Not quite the throw of the Arc, but overall preferable IMO.
Lineup of some SMJLED modded lights: My "lipstick" light, Lambda's TurboMate, Chinese clone wrapped in shrink tube.
I also did a post on what I call the "Chinese Clone Lottery"- findings of the various manufacturning QC issues and suggested remedies here:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1245243#post1245243
1) Remove the PCB/LED unit.One of my lights luckily missed the crimping operation, and the PCB fell out with finger pressure. The others were crimped and required straightening with pliers and much more persuasion (read whacks) to extract the PCB. The metal is quite thin at the end of the head threads, and it is likely the straightening will shear off a portion of the first threads. Remove and continue leaving as much as possible. Don't try to clean up the end by removing more threads or the PCB might not stay put later.
Once you get it as straight as you can, you'll need to force it out. I removed the nose of a pen, placed it on a hard surface with the nose up, set the LED of the assembled light (without battery) on the tip of the pen nose, and gave the end of the light a few whacks with screwdriver handle. You will win.
The legs of the LED have probably buckled, the base of the LED hit the top of the inductor coil, and the plastic housing of the coil has probably lost a few bits. No problem, it should still work.
2) Remove the stock LED. Save the tiny O-ring on the LED, heat the LED leg connections as you pull the LED off. This part doubles as a test of pain threshold or insensitivity to heat. Once the LED is off, heat the PCB holes and suck out the remaining solder with a solder removal tool.
3) Prep and mount SMJLED. Bend the legs of the SMJLED into a yoke with the proper spacing for the PCB holes (1/4") and so the legs are parallel. Insert the SMJLED into the holes observing correct polarity. The longer leg of the SMJLED is (+), and the PCB is marked on the underside. Install the tiny O-ring on the SMJ and butt it against the LED shoulder. Your objective when soldering the legs to the PCB is to have a gap of 0.220" between the top of the O-ring, and the top of the PCB. This is the dimension of the head from the PCB shoulder, down to the backside of the reflector. This is somewhat important as it will affect the focus if you're off. I determined this by lighting a loose SMJ by squeezing a coin cell between the legs, and playing around with the position and beam in an empty head. I found that installing the tiny O-ring on the SMJLED, and butting it against the back of the reflector, I duplicated the best beam. To get the proper SMJLED position when soldering, it helps to gently squeeze the untrimmed legs, sandwiching the PBC. Again a test of heat resistant fingertips. Simply reheat and nudge if you get it wrong. Only when you are satisfied, trim the legs of the SMJ.
Note: I measured the voltage across the legs of the stock LED running on a Rayovac Max alkaline, and I got 3.6 V. I didn't measure current though.
4) Reinsert PCB/LED into head. This is pretty self-explanatory, but be sure to press on the very edge of the PCB, not on the components or center. Be sure the tiny O-ring is on the SMJ beforehand.
5) Crimp. I didn't do this, but it may be advisable to ensure a better contact between the PCB and the head.
6) Enjoy.
Here are some pics:
A stock head, PCB/LED removed, SMJLED mounted & removed LED, finished unit
Stock head and PCB unit, SMJLED head and soldered, untrimmed unit
Beamshot: SMJLED Clone, Stock Clone, Arc AAA-P. All on fresh Energizer Li primaries, 10" from white wall, F4 & 1/4 sec.
Personally I think the SMJLED clone has a great beam. Great spill, decent hotspot, minimal artifacts, and uniform tint. Not quite the throw of the Arc, but overall preferable IMO.
Lineup of some SMJLED modded lights: My "lipstick" light, Lambda's TurboMate, Chinese clone wrapped in shrink tube.
I also did a post on what I call the "Chinese Clone Lottery"- findings of the various manufacturning QC issues and suggested remedies here:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/1245243#post1245243
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