So... how are you going to use the MC-E?

Jarl

Flashlight Enthusiast
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My plan (not sure whether I'll ever manage this) is to have a linear dropper running off one 18650 running one die at 350ma for going up hills/being seen, with the other 3 dice in series with a boost circuit at 0/350/700ma. The LED will be soldered onto a copper slug inside a copper tube to give the best possible heat dissipation. Not sure on switch mounting yet- it'll be a bit tricky getting a tough switch which won't break in a crash. Ideally I could get hold of a waterproof 4t2p rocker switch- off, 1 die at 350ma, 4 dice at 350ma, 3 dice at 700ma/1 die at 350ma. However, I doubt this switch exists. Chances are I'll go with a 1t1p for on/off and a 3t1p to control the 3 dice.

Combined with a helmet mounted R2 with a tight optic (6 deg? definitely less than 8) I think I'll have a killer system :)


Let you imagination run wild!
 
Well I want to see what optics become avalible but I can see myself trying a three chip setup being driven by a maxflex as two strings of 6 die at 600ma :devil:

Ifor
 
I'm planning to make a custom machined housing similar to this:

housing.jpg


The exact size will depend on the optics available, but it should be quite a bit smaller than the Wilma. I plan to run all 4 dies in series driven by a maxflex.
1 on the bars and 1 on the helmet should do the trick :)
 
Definitely a dynamo light!

Hmm.. each die is rated for 350mA? In that case, I'd probably run two parallel strings of two dies. This would get connected to the rectified power from the dynamo. This would essentially be the same arrangement I've got with a Lux V on one light right now, but with improved output.

Any info on when the part & optics will be available?

thanks,
Steve K.
 
Steve, its 700mA max each die, so the 500mA from the dyno is good for a 4s setup.
400+ lm from one dynamo driven MC-E. :twothumbs
 
The problem is then the efficiencies of the dynamo- you're probably going to loose about 10-15W. Doesn't sound like a lot, but i'd imagine it's noticeable over a long ride.

Li-ion for me :)
 
Steve, its 700mA max each die, so the 500mA from the dyno is good for a 4s setup.
400+ lm from one dynamo driven MC-E. :twothumbs

yep, you're right! I took a closer look at the datasheet and noticed that while they do spec a few things at 350mA per die, each die is rated for 700mA. Pretty slick!

In light of this info, I'll set it up similar to what I did for the quad Cree light I built last winter. 2 LEDs (in series) on at all speeds, and 2 more that get automatically switched in series at higher speeds. The ability to do this with one set of optics or reflector will help reduce the size and weight of the light. Very nice!

So now we just sit and wait until the MC-E and suitable optics/reflectors show up on the market?? dang, this is like waiting for Christmas to arrive!

Steve K.
 
The problem is then the efficiencies of the dynamo- you're probably going to loose about 10-15W. Doesn't sound like a lot, but i'd imagine it's noticeable over a long ride.

Li-ion for me :)

And a li-ion battery is cheaper than the Schmidt dynamo too.....
but I use the light for commuting, and there's a certain comfort to not having to wonder if the battery is charged or if it is losing capacity. I've had the Schmidt since around 1998, which certainly reduces the cost per mile.

For commuting, the drag isn't a big issue. However, I did include a switch so that only 2 leds would be powered. This is my preference when I'm using the lights in the daytime for visibility.

With the Schmidt dynamo (or Li-ion batts) and good leds, life is soooo much better than what it was just 10 years ago! Well, make that 11 years ago, since I had the Schmidt 10 years ago.

Steve K.
 
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