So which Duracell LSD AA's are newer?

Marlinaholic

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As most of you know, the Duracell LSD rechargeable batteries have been sold with both "made in Japan" (Eneloop rebrand) and "Made in China" (I don't know what rebrand) on them. My question is, which way is Duracell going with these? I noticed today in Wal-mart they had both, but only the Japan ones said "new" on the package, so does that mean that the China ones are the more recent version, where they already took "new" off the package, and they will become standard? I hope not, as I think the Japan ones must be better than the China made ones. What do you guys think?:thinking:
 
As most of you know, the Duracell LSD rechargeable batteries have been sold with both "made in Japan" (Eneloop rebrand) and "Made in China" (I don't know what rebrand) on them. My question is, which way is Duracell going with these? I noticed today in Wal-mart they had both, but only the Japan ones said "new" on the package, so does that mean that the China ones are the more recent version, where they already took "new" off the package, and they will become standard? I hope not, as I think the Japan ones must be better than the China made ones. What do you guys think?:thinking:

The Japan ones are rebranded Eneloop, China ones are made by the same factory as the Rayovac Hybrid. The Eneloop are better! :)
 
Considering the Chinese ones are probably cheaper and therefore represent a larger profit margin, expect the Eneloops versions to disappear.
 
As most of you know, the Duracell LSD rechargeable batteries have been sold with both "made in Japan" (Eneloop rebrand) and "Made in China" (I don't know what rebrand) on them. My question is, which way is Duracell going with these? I noticed today in Wal-mart they had both, but only the Japan ones said "new" on the package, so does that mean that the China ones are the more recent version, where they already took "new" off the package, and they will become standard? I hope not, as I think the Japan ones must be better than the China made ones. What do you guys think?:thinking:

Fortunately, you don't have to wonder, Duracell date codes their NiMH cells.

The code itself consists of 6 characters:

1st = a number from 0 to 9 representing the last digit of the year.
2nd = a letter from A to L representing the month.
3rd = a number from 0 to 9 representing the first of two numbers denoting the day of the month.
4th = a number from 0 to 9 representing the second of two numbers denoting the day of the month.
5th = purpose unknown, but generally believed to denote a batch.
6th = ditto.

When actually making a purchase, keep in mind the cells in the package have been know to bear an older date than the package itself. In other words, they differeniate between the date the cells were manufactured and the date they were packaged. Usually the difference is only a month or two though, so it's not a significant factor.
 
Fortunately, you don't have to wonder, Duracell date codes their NiMH cells.
...

I should have noted in my initial post that the code is just impressed longitudinally into the clear wrapper of the cell, so it can be difficult to see. I've found a bright light that can throw a hard shadow helps.

It's usually machine stamped on the package with black ink though, so it should be relatively easy to to locate when deliberating a purchase.

The date code used by Sanyo for the Eneloop can be found in this post.
 
So what is the difference between the blacktop and white top?
The black top ones are thought to be relabelled Rayovac Hybrids, or come from the same factory.
The white top ones appear to be relabelled Eneloops.

Since Rayovac Hybrids sell for less than Eneloops, if you bought a black top Duracell at full price, you are paying Eneloop prices for Rayovacs.

The Rayovacs are not bad batteries, they are just not quite as good as the Eneloops, so if you have a choice between black top Duracells and Hybrids - you will be getting the same cells for at least $5 less if you buy the Hybrids.

Duracell changed suppliers (or perhaps Sanyo decided not to offer Eneloops for rebranding) but didn't change the price.

As to the actual difference, SilverFox did some tests and the results are here. You'll see the Eneloop and the Hybrids in the middle of the chart.
 
My Digital Camera does not like any brand China made LSD NiMH. Does not like regular NiMH. Keeps telling me Battery Empty when they are not. The only ones it is Happy with is Eneloop/Duracell Made in Japan.
 
Is it a Pentax?

If so, see if you can find some Kodak Pre-Charged. UnknownVT's Pentax digital SLR is very picky about batteries. Eneloops and Kodak Pre-Charged worked well in his.
 
I saw some Duracell LSD at Wally world with a white top at only 1500Mha for about $10 for 4 and some 2100Mha at $17 for 4 at best buy. I wanted to get some but not at only 1500Mha or for more then Envelopes. my circuit city was out of envelopes.
 
I saw some Duracell LSD at Wally world with a white top at only 1500Mha for about $10 for 4 and some 2100Mha at $17 for 4 at best buy. I wanted to get some but not at only 1500Mha or for more then Envelopes. my circuit city was out of envelopes.
Envelopes can be had much cheaper than that at any stationery store. :D
 
Does anybody have inside scoop on availability of Energizer low self discharged batteries? I can not believe that Energizer still does not have LSD on shelf at usual places.

- Vikas
 
I noticed that at wallyworld the duracell lsd's came with a black and white top......reading posts from way back i got the white tops instead......i dont really like energizer's since the ones that i have like to heat up in the charger.....and there only charging at .5amps.......since then i have gone lsd's now for everything....I use Duracell's, Eneloops, and Titaniums.
 
My Digital Camera does not like any brand China made LSD NiMH. Does not like regular NiMH. Keeps telling me Battery Empty when they are not. The only ones it is Happy with is Eneloop/Duracell Made in Japan.

My Kodak C875 has this problem with NiMH, too. Since I don't take a lot of pictures, I eventually gave up and put Energizer lithiums in it.
 
I fought the same problem with 2 Kodak and one Samsung camera, and concluded it was due to resistance losses at the terminals. Deoxit and Progold only helped a bit, so I caved and took ULTRA fine sandpaper (2000 grit body finishing paper) and scuffed the battery terminals with it. So far, all of the batteries I have been handed as "dead" for charging since have indeed tested as fully exhausted, so I think I found the root cause. It seems to be an invisible layer that adds resitance, and at higher votages (i.e. hot off the charger) can be overcome, but shortly will cause the camera to cry wolf that the batteries are dead.
 

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