Just got a brand new Solarforce L2T, threw a couple of Surefire primaries in it and dropped a Malkoff M60LL in it, clicked the switch and nothing happened. So what's wrong? The batteries are new and work in other lights and the Malkoff works so what gives? The head and tail on the Solarforce were screwed down tight as well, just not sure what's going on.
Solarforce Help
- Thread starter ash211
- Start date
recDNA
Flashaholic
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2009
- Messages
- 8,765
Try taking off thr tailcap then connect the negative end of the battery to the side of the flashlight.you could use a wire or a nail. If the light turns on the problem is the switch. If it doesn't you may need to wrap the dropin in aluminum foil to make a good tight connection.
If it is the switch try tightening the ring inside the tail. You'll see two little indents. Stick something in them and see if you can twist the metal disk down tighter. It may be loose.
If it is the switch try tightening the ring inside the tail. You'll see two little indents. Stick something in them and see if you can twist the metal disk down tighter. It may be loose.
digitalerik
Banned
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2011
- Messages
- 33
I'm sorry to say, but you get what you pay for. I don't think I'll ever buy a solar-force product again.
PCC
Flashlight Enthusiast
digitalerik , you're not helping. Solarforce makes great flashlight hosts. The problem is that they cut the pocket that you put the drop-in into a bit generously which makes negative contact difficult at times.
You're not getting negative contact between the host and the Malkoff. Try wrapping the drop-in with some copper tape or use a spring.
You're not getting negative contact between the host and the Malkoff. Try wrapping the drop-in with some copper tape or use a spring.
Malkoff designs his drop ins to work with SureFire lights. As stated above you may have to modify things slightly to ensure a good earth conection. This has nothing to do with the quality of the Solarforce host.
Norm
Edit: hotwire beat me to it I was composing my post and hadn't seen hotwire's post.
Norm
Edit: hotwire beat me to it I was composing my post and hadn't seen hotwire's post.
Last edited:
![Pampers Sensitive Baby Wipes, Clinically Proven, Fragrance Free, Unscented, Water Based, Hypoallergenic, Multi-Use, Hand Wipes 336 Wipes Total (6X Flip-Top Packs) [Packaging May Vary]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41KLBHu9CAL._SL500_.jpg)
OCD
Enlightened
That's fine. More for the rest of us. But I believe the OP was asking for help, not your thoughts on the brand.
To the OP...what recDNA said is right on. Try to isolate the problem and then take care of it.
I have an S5 tail cap that was had issues when I first got it. Turns out that the retaining ring inside was loose just as recDNA mentioned. Tightened it up and worked fine. I think I've taken the light apart lego-ing it more than I have used it. Took the extension off of it last night and it wouldn't turn on and when I got it to, it was dim and flickered. The retaining ring worked loose again. Tightened back up and works flawlessly. I don't know that I got it sufficiently tight the first time cause I didn't have the right tool for the job.
Let us know what you find out.
Edit: In the process of typing this up, a bunch of people replied. So take my advice with a grain of salt (and a lime and shot of tequila, if needed!) :nana:
Last edited:
Stress_Test
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2008
- Messages
- 1,334
Almost certain to be a lack of contact between the outer (negative) spring of the dropin and the body of the flashlight.
I bought a SureFire P90 lamp assembly to go in a SolarForce host, and had the same problem. I finally realized that the lamp's reflector hits the end of the body tube before the spring makes contact underneath.
I took the outer spring off of a SolarForce dropin and installed it over the P90, and that was wide enough to make contact (makes sense; the SolarForce dropin was made to work with the SolarForce body after all).
Read here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...odule-and-SolarForce-L2-Not-Exactly-a-Drop-In...
for details on the whole sorry saga of me trying to make the P90 work. ;)
I bought a SureFire P90 lamp assembly to go in a SolarForce host, and had the same problem. I finally realized that the lamp's reflector hits the end of the body tube before the spring makes contact underneath.
I took the outer spring off of a SolarForce dropin and installed it over the P90, and that was wide enough to make contact (makes sense; the SolarForce dropin was made to work with the SolarForce body after all).
Read here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...odule-and-SolarForce-L2-Not-Exactly-a-Drop-In...
for details on the whole sorry saga of me trying to make the P90 work. ;)
richpalm
Banned
Oh, pleeeeease... some of you guys aren't happy unless everyone spends $500 on a light. Give the guy a break. Solarforce is the best host and getting better. I love the things. Haven't had any problems with ~15 hosts, but I do my own dropins.
Rich
BIGLOU
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2009
- Messages
- 717
ash211 here is the photo of the spring on one of my Nailbender XML drop-ins I have on my Solarforce L2m. The copper band you see is the copper tape used by many of us to make contact with the body and help in transfering heat away to the flashlight body. If you dont have one PM me your address and I send you one that I have extra. And yeah there is nothing wrong with Solarforce flashlights they are great hosts the L2T is awesome, and thats coming from a Surefire Fanboy.
Here is my Solarforce L2m with a Solarforce cell extender, Clipped Delrin Shrouded Surefire Z59, Z44 head with GG&G Tactical Impact Device rocking a Nailbender XM-L 4500K tint.
Here is my Solarforce L2m with a Solarforce cell extender, Clipped Delrin Shrouded Surefire Z59, Z44 head with GG&G Tactical Impact Device rocking a Nailbender XM-L 4500K tint.
Last edited:
digitalerik
Banned
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2011
- Messages
- 33
My other post was deleted. Maybe because solarforce advertises here. But, yeah solarforce hosts are ok. Certainly not their drop-ins. They are great until you have a problem and need to contact solarforce. Solarforce won't help you against any defective product.
lightfooted
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- May 6, 2010
- Messages
- 1,017
You can also make a "spring" out of 16 gauge solid copper wire that is available at Radio Shack, while it won't be suitable for absorbing recoil shock...it will work fine for making electrical contact with the body. There is a small shoulder inside where the spring is intended to rest and make contact.
I had issues with my p60l in a solarforce l2. With a bit of playing about it turned out that the drop in spring was actually going down the body tube rather than resting on the lip in the body tube. I didnt want to bend the spring on the p60l so i removed a little anno from the tube so the spring would make contact and now it works fine.
I hope this makes sense, i have never been very good at getting the contents of my brain on to paper. good luck sam
I hope this makes sense, i have never been very good at getting the contents of my brain on to paper. good luck sam
RI Chevy
Flashlight Enthusiast
You could always try another drop-in if you have one to see if it is the light/switch or the issue already explained above with the spring on the Malkoff drop-in. I have great luck with my Solarforce lights and will continue to buy them, They are good quality lights and hosts. I have not had any issues with any Solarforce drop-ins.
The spring is slightly larger diameter one end, you may have had the spring upside down.
Norm
I dont know if its normal or not but the spring on my p60L looks like it is soldered to the drop-in, so it doesnt look like I would be able to swap it round. I hadnt thought of creating the electrical path on the side of the spring though, hmm i wonder if we have any copper tape around. Thanks for the brain food.
