Solarforce versus Seraph??

liteboy

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I'm thinking the same. The clicky switches on my SP-6 and SP-9 are both marked "Max. 2A". I only purchased the hosts (not the kits with accessories), so I don't have a twisty to compare.

Lumensfactory has the mcclicky switch for 18$, which I bought. Mark says twisty can handle all output while clicky is 2 amps max.
 
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liteboy

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Seraph is an excellent, affordable host that every P60 fan should check out, IMO. It looks great, and feels great in the hand too. The tailcap can readily accept a mcclicky, and you also get one plain and one crenulated stainless bezel ring included. These rings are surefire compatible too (unlike the solarforce bezel rings), which is a plus for me. Be sure to grab an incan LA from Lumens Factory while you're there.:thumbsup:

Prices super reasonable too coming from Asia. Mark also gave quick replies to my questions. I want to add incan La and a turbo head once i figure out what adapters I need.
 

liteboy

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I own a regular Seraph 6 (not Ti), and it makes a great host. It will take an 18650 without boring, and with the 1½ adapter, can be built to take almost any combination of 18650, 18500, and 18340 cells. The same with the Seraph 9. Right now Lumens Factory has host versions (no lamp assembly) on sale for very good prices. Each Seraph includes both a twisty and clicky tail cap, plus extra O-rings. For 3amp and over loads they recommend using the clicky tail cap only. LF also has a C to M adapter so that one can use M series heads with the C Seraph bodies. And they are a great company to work with. Mark, the owner, has a presence here, and will pop in from time to time. Every time I have asked a question (by email) I have received an answer within a day or two, many times from Mark himself.

Thanks timbil for the heads up on adapters as I wanna use 2 cells to run a few drop ins. Can the p60s fit into the M heads?
 

vudoo

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I just ordered a SP-6 and SP-9, the prices are so good and you can't loose at less than $20 for. Complete host. Also bought a "high powered" Incan dropin. Really love old school Surefire dropin a but they are a bit lacking in output
 

ven

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Wow, finally got the seraph owners to chime in!! I have a sp6 incoming. Also have the stainless steel solarforce.

Wow Ven, I should've known that you had a special seraph incoming. That handsome! Thanks for the nice photos as always.

What's th difference between 219b and 219c?

My p60 nichia 219B triple is around 4500k and in optics. It has around 92(ish) cri rating , a 4 mode driver with a sub lumen mode. The triple 219C mule , no optics so pure flood. 5000k tint so a little cooler than the 219B with around 80cri(ish)and drivervnx2

The 219C can also be driven harder then the B .

Few more pics








Work lights



 

Timothybil

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Prices super reasonable too coming from Asia. Mark also gave quick replies to my questions. I want to add incan La and a turbo head once i figure out what adapters I need.
The D36 turbo head is C thread so no problem. The M series Mini Turbohead will NOT fit P/C/Z/G Surefire lights even with the C to M adapter. It will fit the Seraphs with the C to M adapter. The other M series heads will with no problem with the adapter. Check the detailed specifications for each head to make sure of compatibility.
 

MX421

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I have both and the Seraph seems built a little better, plus it came with a bunch of accessories.
 

liteboy

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The D36 turbo head is C thread so no problem. The M series Mini Turbohead will NOT fit P/C/Z/G Surefire lights even with the C to M adapter. It will fit the Seraphs with the C to M adapter. The other M series heads will with no problem with the adapter. Check the detailed specifications for each head to make sure of compatibility.

Thanks I will explore more configurations once I get the host. Lego is fun again!

How long are ppl waiting to get their LF and SF deliveries from Asia?
 

ven

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Every time this thread gets a bump i feel the need to post fresh pics :laughing:

Good few days use of the seraph now, yep love it . Had a little flicker early on and it was the switch, just needed securing well(firm/tight) in the tail . Today it hardly ever left my hand, it appears one of those lights when used , it has to be held!(even if not on).

New home for now in my tool box top draw




[/URL


Solarforce(sportac nichia triple)
[URL=http://s1126.photobucket.com/user/venn105/media/Flashlights%203/B5845646-9297-4E2E-A6FC-BE71DC339305_zpsdywstol4.jpg.html]



 

ven

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Dark i presume liteboy,normal ti tends to be a bit brighter in colour when HT from what i have seen anyway.

I do like it when you get different colours from different angles.
 

m4a1usr

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Hmm, not much seraph love here. The stainless solarforce def looks good. Do I need to change switch for high output engines?

I wouldn't use a stainless steel host for high output/current drop in's. Thermal conductivity is horrible for stainless steel. Just look at a Conducive heat chart for Stainless. Copper is rated at 401 on a standardized chart, Aluminum is at 205. Stainless is way down low at 16. The lower the number the worse it is at conductivity. That means its getting closer to being an insulator than a conductor.

Not that I hate stainless lights. I own more than one. They are works of art and for wear who could argue durability! But keep things in perspective. I just hate to see someone put a spendy drop in a ticking time bomb.

:poof:
 

ven

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Yes, you dont want to be pushing crazy outputs for sure, i use lower outputs in work and now it has a sportac triple nichia inside. Most uses are on the 20%(around 160lm) and handles it all day fine. Higher outputs only for a short time! It does cool down fairly quick still not a host for banging out 2 or 3000lm!
 

CelticCross74

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Solarforce. Because Ive basically never heard of Seraph. I just know Solarforce has an outstanding catalog and you can drop damn near anything into them. Tons of accessories for them as well. Surprisingly cheap to boot.
 

ven

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I just got my two Seraph hosts. None of my dropin's work in them. Will play around with them when I have more time.

Which seraphs? ti or the alloy?

Only little issue i have had is the high amp tail cap coming loose after a few cell swaps. I would try to switch on and the switch would not catch, so more like a forward (momentary) clicky. So it is real secure now ,thanks to cir-clip pliers .
 
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