Solarforce

[Guy's Dropper]

I just found this page, and I was wondering what everyone's opinion of Solarforce is. They look like Surefire ripoffs, and the lumen rating of 300 looks completely fabricated, but the price certainly is attractive.

 

[Monocrom]

I just found this page, and I was wondering what everyone's opinion of Solarforce is. They look like Surefire ripoffs, and the lumen rating of 300 looks completely fabricated, but the price certainly is attractive.

Their L2 host is decent. Perfect for use with one of their R2 drop-ins. But don't expect Surefire quality. Some of their other lights are hit or miss.

 

[wildstar87]

+1 on the L2, it's build quality is really nice, pretty close to the Surefire IMO, definitely a blatant copy though, won't hold an 18650 without boring, which is the same as a Surefire. The R2 drop-in is pretty decent, you can find one with that on ebay for around $25-30. Switch is a reverse clickie, but they apparently have a foward clickie that can be gotten, if that's important to you.

Nice P60 Host definitely.

 

[oronocova]

I think the L2 is an awesome light. My only dislike is that their strike bezels are annoyingly sharp. 300lm probably not, more like 200+ range? Mine is right there with the Fenix T1 on high.

 

[Superdave]

their new strike bezels are really nice.. i bought one off ebay last week. It has yet to arrive..

http://www.solarforcestore.com/servlet/the-837/tactical-head/Detail

 

[Monocrom]

As far as the Solarforce forward clickies go, save your money. I bought one from Lighthound.com, and they are a perfect fit on my L2 and L600. (Two very different lights. The L600 is a G&P Scorpion copy that runs off of 2x18650 cells. And a rather **** poor copy at that).

Got the forward clickie to use on my L600. But the switch is too sensative. Almost feels as though the light would turn on if a fly landed on top of the rubber boot. I put the reverse-clickie from my L2 onto my L600. It's a 99.9% perfect fit. Tough to describe.... The L2's reverse-clickie works on the L600. Not even a loose fit. But just seems a bit off somehow.

I've found that it's best not to mix & match too many parts from different companies. The Solarforce R2 drop-in is a good one. The single-stage version is bright, cheap, and actually pretty decent.... And a poor fit in my Surefire C2, no matter what I tried to get it to fit. But it's an excellent fit in the Solarforce L2 host. The momentary switch on my L600 was horrible! Hard as a rock! When I switched it onto my Solarforce L2 host, it works perfectly! Can't explain why. Just know it does.

 

[Zatoichi]

I found a UK supplier of these, and ordered one with a single mode R2. They seem like a bargain. I'll give my opinion (hopefully) tomorrow when it arrives.

 

[jirik_cz]

I had some issues with their R2 5-mode drop-in, but their big lights (T700, L900, L900M) are one of the brightest in the category. And they are also very well built.

 

[Zatoichi]

My L2 arrived today from KMNW, and I see why they're popular. Cost me £22 with an R2, and the quality definately exceeds what I expected for the money. I can't find a single flaw with it. That's not to say my novice eyes aren't missing anything, but the threads are smooth, the fit/finish are fine, emitter perfectly centred etc... Nice.

 

[Swedpat]

Hi!

I have a few questions about Solarforce. I recently received a Solarforce L2-R (2AA) with a 3 mode 0,8-4,2V dropin to it.
I think Solarforce is a good value for the money, with good grip and robust performance. But there are two things I am not satisfied with:

1: the PWM of low and mid modes is extremely low frequence (I notice it all the time)

2: the tint is the most blue-purple of all my LED-lights, very uncomfortable

Is it the same with the other of the dropins?

Also I have one more question: are all Malkoff dropins to Surefire possible to use in Solarforce?

Regards, Patric

 

[vasp1]

Hi, I've just taken delivery of a Solarforce L2 with flat bezel from flashlight_express on ebay. The description is "Solarforce 5Output BLK L2 R2 18650/CR123 Flat HeadTorch". It cost about £18.50 which I consider good value. I'm using a rechargeable protected 18650 and so far no problems. I've only used it round the house or in the garden at night to scare off foxes.

The build quality is very good, the finish is even and the H/M/L levels seem well spaced. I'm not that bothered about the strobe/flash modes so I can't really comment on those.

At this price I would recommend it and I would definitely buy another.

 

[ghostguy6]

My L2P doesnt work with a standard P60 incan. I think I would need to make a spacer to hold the cells in tightly. Im using it with a Pro -1 head so Im not to concerned.

 

[Black Rose]

My L2P doesnt work with a standard P60 incan. I think I would need to make a spacer to hold the cells in tightly. Im using it with a Pro -1 head so Im not to concerned.

I never tried using a P60 incan in mine. Just tried it now and you're right...it does not work in the L2 or the L2P.

It's not the battary that's the problem, it's the opening at the head end of the battery tube.

The negative contact spring at the bottom of the drop-in falls right through the battery tube opening, so there's not proper negative contact with the body.

EDIT: It only seems to be a problem with Surefire P60 modules.
I've used the DX 10w and 15W 7.4V incan drop-ins, as well as Lumens Factory incan drop-ins, and they all worked fine.

 

[ronkar]

Guy's Dropper,

I looked at the page you linked to, and did not see any Solarforce flashlights. I saw some XXXfire's and some others, but zero Solarforce.

Try SBFlashlights or Lighthound for the real Solarforce.

OOPS! Looked at the date of the original post. Carry on.

 

[It01Firefox]

I never tried using a P60 incan in mine. Just tried it now and you're right...it does not work in the L2 or the L2P.

It's not the battary that's the problem, it's the opening at the head end of the battery tube.

The negative contact spring at the bottom of the drop-in falls right through the battery tube opening, so there's not proper negative contact with the body.

EDIT: It only seems to be a problem with Surefire P60 modules.
I've used the DX 10w and 15W 7.4V incan drop-ins, as well as Lumens Factory incan drop-ins, and they all worked fine.

That is correct, here's the dimensions for a washer that would make the Surefire drop-ins work in the Solarforce bodies:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=3275758&postcount=7

 

[rizky_p]

wow this is an OLD thread.

 

[Midnight Oil]

All the threads and posts therein I've come across that compare the Solarforce L2 and L2P hosts to the Surefire 6P host are not specific about how the quality of the Solarforce hosts, though "very good for their price," falls short of the Surefire's, even that of the Fenix lights.

Someone please point out the specifics: wall thickness, the machining of the threads, shape of the threads, knurling, mating of the seams, finish, waterproofing, lens, QC, etc.

Thanks.

 

[Gryffin]

Someone please point out the specifics: wall thickness, the machining of the threads, shape of the threads, knurling, mating of the seams, finish, waterproofing, lens, QC, etc.

I can take a stab at that...

Ladies and gentlemen, in this corner, my Surefire G2 (original nitrolon head) and 6P (put together from parts, actually). And in this corner, a Solarforce L2M, L2P and assorted tinkertoy parts (bezels, tailcaps, heads, clips, lanyrad rings, etc.)

Wall Thickness: the Surefires are built for 16mm cells; the Solarforces both accept 18mm cells, so the walls are thinner. But not thin; they feel plenty sturdy, and the l2M even has a screw joint in the middle to allow it to use either one 34mm-long cell or two (or a single 176670 or 18650). So, thinner walls, but greater flexibility in cells. You choose.

Shape of threads: the same. All four share the same head and tail threads, and hence same thread shape. (For some reason, the Solarforce heads use a slightly different thread for the bezels; seems odd, since they made sure to match the other threads, why not the bezel?) Thread are all smooth yet firm, even the nitrolon G2.

Knurling: SF G3 has a molded-in waffle pattern that's very easy to grip, but you can't really compare that to the others. The 6P is nicely knurled, grippy and well-cut. The Solarforce L2M's knurling is very shallow, worst grip of the lot; the L2P knurling, though, is similar to that of the 6P.

Fit & Finish: All four fit together very well. By design, all of them leave a gap between the body and tailcap, from .5mm to 3mm depending on how you mix and match tailcaps, to allow for a lanyard ring. The L2P is the only one with HA-II hard anodizing, and it's an even, satiny black; the L2M is only Type II anodizing, but it's even in color and consistent between all body parts. Surefire is famous for mis-matched anodizing colors, but mine matches very well, especially considering the parts came from different sources! The G2 isn't anodized, natch, but the color is consistent.

All four seem well waterproofed, with o-rings in all the right places; I haven't taken any of mine snorkling, but haven't and any leakage problems.

One thing you didn't ask, but I'm gonna answer anyhow: the switches. Both Surefires have simple twisty lock-out tailcaps, which I don't care for; both have been replaced with NetKidz' excellent forward-clicky replacement innards. The Solarforce lights are both reverse-clicky from the factory; the L2P has a longer tailcap with the switch recessed, allowing it to tailstand. Clicky feel on both is very good; I don't own a Surefire clicky to compare to, but they're as good as any reverse clicky I own.

The optional Solarforce forward-clicky tailcaps are another matter, though. The two models I have both use the same switch mechanism, which is very "mushy" (but quiet, unlike most clickies; the tailcaps themselves are VERY large, making the back end of the light seem bigger than the business end. I've bought some aftermarket forward clicky switch that are supposedly the same ones used in Fenix and JETbeam lights, and supposedly straight replacements for the Solarforce reverse clickies; I haven't gotten the soldering iron out yet, but from what I can see, they'll only replace the L2P's switch directly; the L2M will need a bit more work.

Another bonus item: the aftermarket. Solarforce sells a good range of accessories and replacement parts, offering a lot of flexibility in configuring your light to your needs; but the Surefire aftermarket is much bigger (albeit much pricier!). You could go crazy trying out every possible "LEGO" combination (and go broke trying to buy every piece that fits!)

So in conclusion: I can't really compare the G2 to the others in quality, due to it's unique construction, but it's a quality light. The L2M is a cut above the Chinafire lights in fit and finish, with an excellent switch to boot, but not quite in the same class as the Surefire. The 6P is admittedly Surefire's entry-level light, but well made; it's only real weakness is the relatively delicate Type II anodizing (and the LOTC, but that's more a matter of taste). IMNSHO, the Solarforce L2P is the best light of the three, with fit and construction nearly as good as the 6P, but with the advantage of HA-III hard anodizing and an excellent switch in a tailstandable tailcap.

That concludes today's lesson. Any questions? Anybody? In the back? Beuller?

 

[Midnight Oil]

Gryffin,

Thank you for the in-depth comparisons. This is a good lesson.

To me, the most helpful reviews, comparisons, and recommendations of products are those whose judging criteria are purely performance-based, and hence quantifiable. With regard to flashlight hosts, that, to me, means judging them by their design, engineering, and manufacturing.

I don't know if you could tell, but there is a bit of frustration in my previous post. Traversing this forum, looking for facts to help me make informed purchasing decisions on a host, drop-in, batteries, charger, and lube, I've come across so many threads just cluttered with opinions and brand-loyalty and in which users draw conclusions or make recommendations which they don't or can't substantiate quantitatively. That's not to say there is no truth or wisdom in those threads; it's just that one has to spend a lot of time and effort to filter out the nonsense and identify those who really know their stuff.

I must say you're gutsy :thumbsup:, as many members here would rather not take part in this particular discussion lest they offend loyal users of the respective brands of lights or start a yelling match. I, on the other hand, think these open discussions are beneficial to us in the end. In fact they're a must. They enable us to make better purchasing decisions and help us become, if not more rational, at least smarter, consumers. My motto is, "Don't tell me, show me."

 

[Midnight Oil]

Hey...wait just a sec....Gryf,

You're the same guy who "Ain't touchin' THAT one with a ten foot battery tube " over in Craig's P60 host thread! :thanks:though, for finally breaking the silence.