Soldering: how do I keep my tip tinned and clean?

likeguymontag

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Nov 18, 2005
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I got a new tip for my iron the other day because I think I had trashed the old one. I hadn't treated the previous one very nicely; using acidic tip cleaner/tinner too often, not wiping off burnt flux residue, leaving it hot and not properly flushed, etc...

So you see, I kind-of know what I'm doing, but I'm having the darnedest time treating this new tip properly. I can't seem to get the entire wettable surface covered in fresh solder. What am I doing wrong? Is my iron too hot? It's a 40W Weller with a pencil tip, no temperature control. Am I using the wrong solder? The label peeled off, but it's definitely lead/tin with rosin core.

I wonder if there's any hope for a non-thermostatted iron anyway. :sigh:
 
Use a wet sponge, wipe the tip until it's clean (silver color), apply a little bit of solder to the tip, you can start soldering.
 
I noticed mine will not tin sometimes if I let it sit there and get blue/black/grey (anything other than shiny silver). My solution is just put it on full heat, let it heat up to full temperature, then quickly wipe it on the damp sponge, and immediately poke a bunch of solder at it. It will stick very well and stay shin... and that's with 96% tin solder.
 
Use a wet sponge, wipe the tip until it's clean (silver color), apply a little bit of solder to the tip, you can start soldering.

I noticed mine will not tin sometimes if I let it sit there and get blue/black/grey (anything other than shiny silver). My solution is just put it on full heat, let it heat up to full temperature, then quickly wipe it on the damp sponge, and immediately poke a bunch of solder at it. It will stick very well and stay shin... and that's with 96% tin solder.

Yeah, I was working last night and noticed that my tip turns blue/black/grey within a few seconds of wiping it clean. It looks shiny immediately after I wipe it, and I try and quickly flood it with solder, but I can't get the entire tip covered before part has oxidized. :confused: I wasn't using an actual sponge btw, just a damp cotton ball.

For what it's worth, I destroyed my first iron's tip by trying to sand it into a point; I've learned a lot since then.
 
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I also have used the damp sponge for years with excellent result. I would use that instead of a damp cotton ball. I'm still using the same Hakko tip.
 
I just use radioshack tip cleaner/tinner, and re-clean before using it. It works well enough for me.
 
I'm having a similar problem with my 25W Weller iron.

It is always that blue/black/grey colour, even after I clean it in the brass shavings.

I've also tried dipping the tip in water and wiping it on a paper towel, to no avail.

Even when I place the tip of the hot iron on 60/40 solder, it takes a few seconds before the solder "melts".
 
I got a cheap pencil iron from The Source (basically Canadian Radio Shack). After I use it for awhile (like 6 months) the tip starts to melt or corrode or something. Since it is such a cheap iron I took it out to the angle grinder and ground myself a new point on it. Originally it was silver in colour and after time it changed to kind or the blue/black/grey colour that Black Rose says his is. After it got the grinder treatment it was coppery in colour. I think the tip is steel plated brass or something. Anyway it works as good as new now. I don't know if anybody is willing to try this with more expensive tips but if you have a cheap one its worth a try.
 
When the wet sponge doesn't work I use Tinner/Cleaner. It goes by different names.

Here is one at Radio Shack.

The three methods (there may be more) to clean your soldering tips:

1) Wet sponge.

2) tinner/Cleaner

3) brass coiled sponge

You need item 2 above if you soldering iron doesn't have a sleep mode or park mode as the tip will oxidize and become useless if it sits idle for more than a 10 seconds or so.

Wayne
 
Wet sponges are not very good because they will cool down the tip too fast which will cause tiny cracks. you should avoid such big temp differences.
 
if your tip is turning blue black rapidly that means it is over heating. those high temperature irons are made to work with lead free solder. unfortunately that's something you can't avoid unless it is made out of better? material. what iron do you have?
 
if your tip is turning blue black rapidly that means it is over heating. those high temperature irons are made to work with lead free solder. unfortunately that's something you can't avoid unless it is made out of better? material. what iron do you have?

It's a 40W Weller cheapie. Clearly too much power for a non-thermostatted iron. I used to think that more was better; it's not. I'll be getting a lower powered iron next time I'm at the hardware store.
 
I have a 25W Weller cheapie and am having the same issues.

Since I don't do enough modding (yet) I'm not sure if it's worth spending the $$$ on a soldering station.

EDIT: The Weller kit I bought (SP23LK) actually came with lead-free solder.
I guess I'll try my old iron I bought in the leaded solder days and see how that one works.
 
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My WTCP Weller has never had any problems with the tip. If it oxidized, a wipe on a wet paper towel would make it shiny right away
 
I always leave solder on my tip, on or off and rarely need to use cleaner. I just need to clean my sponge quite a bit when using it.
 
My WTCP Weller has never had any problems with the tip. If it oxidized, a wipe on a wet paper towel would make it shiny right away

Same here, I love my WTCP. You can find the WTCP cheap on Ebay sometimes.
 
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