SOLUTION to the Pelican M6 clickie switch problem

[LightChucker]

The length of the threads of the black PM6 are too short!

The problem is that the threads of the black PM6 are shorter than the silver version by quite a bit. While tightening the tailcap to the battery tube, this allows the tailcap to come to a stop before it can push the switch all the way in to the battery tube, and the contact is not complete.

The solution I am using is to wrap a piece of wire around the shaft of the clickie switch. This fills the gap between the switch and the battery tube, and the contact is made as intended.

I found that 14 gauge wire worked well. It has a problem though - it is too thick, and makes it impossible to insert the switch, but the thickness is just right to take up gap between the battery tube and the tailcap. So, after making the wire ring, I sanded it around the outer edge until it would allow the switch to slide into the cap.

If you need to see pictures of this, I will post them later. But it REALLY fixes the problem.

Chuck

Chuck

 

[MR Bulk]

Chuck,

Nice fix concept. But I saw where some of the PM6's were different from one another in size and threads, even among the same color. Different batches made on different offshore machines, perhaps?

 

[LightChucker]

OK, here is the picture. I can't get any closer to show the gap without losing focus. Anyway, the point is that the threads are different from light-to-light. Your mileage may differ, but it worked for me.

Chuck

 

[LightChucker]

[ QUOTE ]
MR Bulk said:
Chuck,

Nice fix concept. But I saw where some of the PM6's were different from one another in size and threads, even among the same color. Different batches made on different offshore machines, perhaps?

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks.

I had tried and tried to make the black lights work. I stumbled onto this idea when I just pushed the switch into the battery tube by hand (without the tailcap). I could make the switch work perfectly by just pushing it into the battery tube. I discovered this after I put a nylon washer into the tailcap before inserting the switch. That made it work, but the switch throw was too far. I also tried playing with the amount that I screwed the plastic part of the switch into the aluminum can.

Oh well, this might help someone with a light that has similar dimensions to mine.

Chuck

 

[MR Bulk]

Well a couple things come to mind -- perhaps a washer between the clickie housing and the bottom of the tailcap? To raise it nearer to the tube lip's shoulder?

Anyway I had time to disassemble a new PM6 tailcap and yes, there is a bunch of gunk in the threads. It is not a hardened type of compound in mine, more like very viscous plumber's putty, so I dug out a bunch with an angled scribe tool, turned the internals till they bound up, screwed it back in, dug out the bunched up gunk, tuynred some more, etc., until everything all came out. Do-able certainly, so I guess the Sale is On. Add $5 bucks for my removal/install sweat labor to the figures above, plus another $5 bucks for Delivery Confirmed Priority shipping.

Sound off at the Buy/Sell thread, and Thanks.

 

[flashlightlens]

How about dropping an o-ring in the tailcap before the clickie module? This would let the sleeve make contact with the body a little sooner. I've got a few o-rings on order that should be here Friday to try out. If it works out, anyone who has one of my clickie's and is having any problems will be sent one free of charge.

 

[LightChucker]

[ QUOTE ]
MR Bulk said:
Well a couple things come to mind -- perhaps a washer between the clickie housing and the bottom of the tailcap? To raise it nearer to the tube lip's shoulder?


[/ QUOTE ]

(I mentioned that above, but I guess I wasn't clear.)

I tried that, and it worked, but I didn't like the feel. It made the "throw" or "travel" of the switch too long for my liking. But, give it a try - you might like it.

Chuck