Someone smack me

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flownosaj

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Feb 24, 2003
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Fayetteville, NC
Just back from the garage. I've been playing around with my KL1 and everything was going great untill it came time to remove the new emitter from the board and perform the "transplant"
To set the scene, KL1 is apart on the bench with the old emitter removed and sitting next to it. The new led is still attached to the board and I've used a dental pick to remove the leads once the solder has melted. So far I'm feeling pretty good about how things are going. I've heard that some people take a dremel and cutting wheel to the back of the board but I figure it must make a lot of heat and there must be an easier way.
I take a pair of forceps and figure that the easiest way would be to just twist. One hand tight around the board, the other tight around the forceps and *twist* Something sliped-the lens went flying and the board went to the ground.

I'm now the proud owner of a severley scratched lens and a bashed phosphor. Oh, it would have been fine if it was something simple like a cheap one, but guess what-- it was an R2H!


For next time I'm silly enough to try this, does anybody have an easier way remove the emitter from the board?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/help.gif

I'm gonna go out to the garage and sulk for a while... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

-Jason
 
Jason,

I am no expert, and I have only removed an LED from the board once. All I did was simply flex the board in my fingers. It just dropped off. Maybe just applying some heat to the back of the board, right behind the LED, and then flexing it, is all it takes.

Chuck
 
Let me add my own /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twakfl.gif to that, flownosaj. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif

I've not removed any LS's from their stars, but I was told by someone who has done it that to a few that he mounts one edge of the star in a vise, grabs the opposite edge in a pair of pliers and twists. Allegedly the LS pops right off ...

Note this is all heresay, so don't hold me to it, OK?

Drop Larry (tvodrd) a note to see if he can give you a hint or two.

T_sig6.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
Yes, bend the heatsink away from the emitter, it will fall right off. Grab on both sides of the heatsink with pliers and bend away.
 
After you unsolder the leads use two pliers and grab the star at 90 degrees from the leads and bend the star a little. then the emitter should almost fall off.At most a gentle nudge should dislodge it from the star.try and make the bend happen directly under the emitter. I have done this many times with no mishaps(so far) some others have said this in another thread or three.
Chris
 
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First, ChuckDecker has some mighty strong fingers!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I've done a dozen or so and as everybody says, all you have to do is bend the aluminum, and they fall off. No need to notch the backside.

Larry
 
Jason, that's really a shame, notice all the how to after the fact comments, maybe it would have been good to get a few opinions before the calamity. Hopefully you have a backup.
 
JASON, you really deserve this /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twakfl.gif

but that is a bummer /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
but hey, i thought the lens in an HD is an epoxy, so it should not scatter that easily. What do you have there, concrete with a hammer /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
 
Thanks for the advice, guys. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twakfl.gif-me

Well, after a few Sam Adams' in me, I've worked up the courage to try it again and hopefully get it right this time. Unfortunately I don't have another LS, let alone an R2H... so it looks like I'll have to buy a few more and wait for the postman before I can start playing.



Maybe instead of white, I'll go for a nice red hd this time. That way I'll have a red and a nice white.
Anybody have any opinions of the reds?

-Jason
 
shifty...

the luxeon lenses aren't solid epoxy. it is a shell dome of some clear material (i think i knew what it was at one time...), and inside the clear shell is <font color="green">goo</font>. the <font color="green">goo</font> is optically transparrent, and it is there because when the luxeon bond wires heat up, they expand, and with the <font color="green">goo</font>, they are allowed to do so without damage. i suspect the <font color="green">goo</font> also aids a bit in heat absorbtion as compared to the "epoxy" dome of a regular-type led. furthermore, i believe this setup is far more optically pure than that of the standard led, and can possibly allow greater flexability of the die layout in the led casing.
 
ah, thanks roth for the info.

Jason, personally i find no use for the red lux. If i were you, i would try to get another HD white, preferably cheap and good bin. Someone got a sale here and that is a pretty good buy, IMHO. Another word on the red HD. If you get a red led, try to put it in a flashlight and see if you like it or not. It would be cool to have a red HD kl1, but what is it for if you don't like it?

just my 2 cents
 
Order placed for some of the Q3's. I'll get this thing working right eventually...

As to the red led--it would be cool, but a red beamcover would work just as well and I'd still have the option of white when I need it.


-Jason
 
YUP
that is a great idea, jason.
But i dunno on the beam cover though because as i know it, the lux itself does not produde much red light. I might be wrong. someone correct me please.
 
Just tried it with a MM+ and a red m*g filter and it worked fine /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif


-Jason
 
AHH, That is good news /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
shifty...what are you talking about man? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

red luxeons put out quite a bit of light, red/orange ones put out even more.

i beileve flow was talking about putting a white led behind a red filter to allows either red or white light, to use according to a situation.
 
Lol roth, i know what Jason is saying
Of course i know that the red will put out a LOT of red light. what i am saying is that i dunno if the white lux will put enough red light, because the white is from phospored light from the die, which is not red to begin with.
 
ahh, i getcha /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

well, the filter will reduce output (as it does with all light sources), but it should still be bright enough to be useful /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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