Spike Light - V3
- Thread starter ahorton
- Start date
Help Support Candle Power Flashlight Forum
UltraRunner
Newly Enlightened
Same boat here. Status reads "Received and awaiting clearance for delivery" at LAX since Jan 2nd.
Ash
Do you have the weight of v3 headlamp, with and without batteries...
Couldn't find it in thread.
Do you have the weight of v3 headlamp, with and without batteries...
Couldn't find it in thread.
ahorton
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2008
- Messages
- 715
Last time I weighed one it was 187 grams without cells and 282 grams with the cells.
Yours may be slightly more or less. Each one is a little different.
Yours may be slightly more or less. Each one is a little different.
Mine was in LAX customs for four business days and it was express mail. That was over the New Years holiday though. It was also unopened when I received it so it appears they are still just backlogged from the holidays. It'll be worth the wait:twothumbs
Last edited:
jonathanluu2
Newly Enlightened
ahorton, you have definitely done some fantastic work here, and it sounds like you enjoy your "side" hobby. I may have to consider one of your headlamps as, like another user said, a "thing that I would like but dont have the funding for it".
Do you use a 3-D modeling software to build your battery case, or your headlamp assembly for that matter? I used some software in school called Pro/ENGINEER that did a good job, plus it had a module within it that was specifically designed for plastic parts manufacturing (where to inject the plastic, expected grain patterns, weak spots, etc.) I would expect that this type of software would assist in shaving weight and size, while optimizing strength. Hopefully I am not preaching too hard to the choir!
Do you use a 3-D modeling software to build your battery case, or your headlamp assembly for that matter? I used some software in school called Pro/ENGINEER that did a good job, plus it had a module within it that was specifically designed for plastic parts manufacturing (where to inject the plastic, expected grain patterns, weak spots, etc.) I would expect that this type of software would assist in shaving weight and size, while optimizing strength. Hopefully I am not preaching too hard to the choir!
ahorton
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2008
- Messages
- 715
I spent so many hours in CAD that I don't like to think about it! It certainly was valuable to shave mass wherever possible.
UltraRunner
Newly Enlightened
My Spike Light finally cleared customs and arrived yesterday. This morning at 4:30 a.m. I took it for a 10 miler in the woods. All I can say is "WOW." This is a great light for runners. For a trail runner it's darn near perfect. Broad wash of warm and soft, happy light, lets you see your footing and everything to the sides as well. No more tunnel vision. The spot, holy crap this thing throws. You will have no problem finding the trail or distant markers, or cutting through rain and fog with this bad boy. There is NO bounce with the head strap. The light stays where you aim it with no creep. I can't speak to run times yet but I'm sure this will go all night. I got the competition UI and it's a chinch to learn and use.
I'll be depending on the Spike Light at the Barkley Marathons at the end of March where it will get the true torture test: 100 miles, 60 hours, no trail, no support, 60,000 feet of climb and decent.
If you are a trail runner, buy this light.
I'll be depending on the Spike Light at the Barkley Marathons at the end of March where it will get the true torture test: 100 miles, 60 hours, no trail, no support, 60,000 feet of climb and decent.
If you are a trail runner, buy this light.
ahorton
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2008
- Messages
- 715
I'm glad you like it!
Unfortunately, two people today have just written to me about problems in their switches. The issue is that they were too tight and unusable. The solution is to slightly loosen the small set screw at the back. It's a shiny stainless steel one. The perfect tool is a 0.89mm or 0.9mm Allen key. However, just about any tool that fits will work. I have used a tiny slot-head screwdriver without problems.
Why did it happen? I don't know. At first I thought it might be a thermal expansion thing. I assembled them in 40 degree C heat (something like 100F) and both of the problems happened in the USA (where I assume it's pretty cold now). However, I don't think this works as an explanation. Since I did some calculations and the hole that the screw sits in couldn't have contracted by more than 2um.
Bottom line:
I'm sorry if your switch is too tight when it arrives. Find something 0.9mm wide (ideally an Allen key) to stick in the SS screw and loosen it until the button works nicely.
Please keep letting me know any problems you find with these headlights. I want to support my customers and eliminate problems in future designs.
Someone else had a switch that worked intermittently. So I'm replacing his whole torch and I'll try to work out what went wrong.
Unfortunately, two people today have just written to me about problems in their switches. The issue is that they were too tight and unusable. The solution is to slightly loosen the small set screw at the back. It's a shiny stainless steel one. The perfect tool is a 0.89mm or 0.9mm Allen key. However, just about any tool that fits will work. I have used a tiny slot-head screwdriver without problems.
Why did it happen? I don't know. At first I thought it might be a thermal expansion thing. I assembled them in 40 degree C heat (something like 100F) and both of the problems happened in the USA (where I assume it's pretty cold now). However, I don't think this works as an explanation. Since I did some calculations and the hole that the screw sits in couldn't have contracted by more than 2um.
Bottom line:
I'm sorry if your switch is too tight when it arrives. Find something 0.9mm wide (ideally an Allen key) to stick in the SS screw and loosen it until the button works nicely.
Please keep letting me know any problems you find with these headlights. I want to support my customers and eliminate problems in future designs.
Someone else had a switch that worked intermittently. So I'm replacing his whole torch and I'll try to work out what went wrong.
Anyone in USA still waiting for arrival? Dang post office taking the long way around...
OK, so USPS finally delivered.
Too bad the 18650 batteries I have are AW 3100mAH flat tops.
17670's fit, but don't seem to work. Bummer.
I have an expensive headlamp paperweight now.
Don't have any magnets thin enough.
I don't know why, but it seems all the better Panasonic based 18650's are flat topped now. Would really like to use the best 18650's in this Spike light.
Too bad the 18650 batteries I have are AW 3100mAH flat tops.
17670's fit, but don't seem to work. Bummer.
I have an expensive headlamp paperweight now.
Don't have any magnets thin enough.
I don't know why, but it seems all the better Panasonic based 18650's are flat topped now. Would really like to use the best 18650's in this Spike light.
Last edited:
ahorton
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2008
- Messages
- 715
From now on I'll be warning Americans about their own customs delays. It's not even the same delay for everyone. Looking at the tracking data, some of you had a two-day delay, while others are still waiting after two weeks. I sent some on Jan 4 which arrived by Jan 10, while others sent on Dec 20 are still waiting! I'm upset for all you guys, but it is out of my control.
I'm surprised that the 17670s don't work. Is it because they also have flat tops and don't make contact? Or is there something else going on?
I'm also surprised that you can't get a magnet in the gap. How thick and wide are your magnets? I can send you some that will fit.
I've been using Xtar's Panasonic cells and they work well for me.
How are you planning to use the soldering iron? I'm nervous about putting solder blobs on your cells. I also advise against soldering to the brass contact in the battery case. The plastic will soften.
If you really want to use flat-tops without magnets, then my advice is to carefully drill two holes through the middle of both +ve contacts, and screw in two screws. You can drill the holes easily from the plastic underside on the holder. Then put the screws in from the inside so that their heads make a button to contact your flat-tops. If you choose the drill size well, then the screws will bite into the brass and plastic nicely. Ideally you'd tap the hole so that the screw goes in nicely. Washers can be added to raise the height. I can send you brass screws that should work, but you'll be much quicker getting them locally for under $1.
The circuit does have reverse polarity protection. My bigger concern stems from the fact that the two cells are wired in parallel. So if someone reverses one cell, then they will form a closed circuit. This is not good. If the cells are protected then it's probably not a problem. However, sooner or later some fool will buy unprotected cells and I don't want to be responsible for blowing a hole in the back of their head.
I'm sorry you've had a rotten experience with the shipping and the product. I'll happily give you a refund for the product if you send it back to me. Sadly you will have lost the shipping expense. Or perhaps you can sell it on to someone locally. I'll gladly set you up with the Americans on my order list.
I'm surprised that the 17670s don't work. Is it because they also have flat tops and don't make contact? Or is there something else going on?
I'm also surprised that you can't get a magnet in the gap. How thick and wide are your magnets? I can send you some that will fit.
I've been using Xtar's Panasonic cells and they work well for me.
How are you planning to use the soldering iron? I'm nervous about putting solder blobs on your cells. I also advise against soldering to the brass contact in the battery case. The plastic will soften.
If you really want to use flat-tops without magnets, then my advice is to carefully drill two holes through the middle of both +ve contacts, and screw in two screws. You can drill the holes easily from the plastic underside on the holder. Then put the screws in from the inside so that their heads make a button to contact your flat-tops. If you choose the drill size well, then the screws will bite into the brass and plastic nicely. Ideally you'd tap the hole so that the screw goes in nicely. Washers can be added to raise the height. I can send you brass screws that should work, but you'll be much quicker getting them locally for under $1.
The circuit does have reverse polarity protection. My bigger concern stems from the fact that the two cells are wired in parallel. So if someone reverses one cell, then they will form a closed circuit. This is not good. If the cells are protected then it's probably not a problem. However, sooner or later some fool will buy unprotected cells and I don't want to be responsible for blowing a hole in the back of their head.
I'm sorry you've had a rotten experience with the shipping and the product. I'll happily give you a refund for the product if you send it back to me. Sadly you will have lost the shipping expense. Or perhaps you can sell it on to someone locally. I'll gladly set you up with the Americans on my order list.
No worries, Ash. The blame is 100% on US Customs. You did all that you could do on your end. Thanks for sending it out quickly.
The bottom two LED's light up briefly when one or two 17670's are inserted and then nothing happens when I press the button and hold.
The magnets I have are too thick. I'd definitely like some magnets if you have some to spare. I appreciate it.
Woah. OK. Putting down the soldering iron and backing slowly away.
I'll go the magnet route.
BTW, the button on mine is very smooth and awesome. Even with the colder temps lately.
I really want to get this Spike Light working. Apologies for my shorter temper, I blame US customs and the nasty flu I'm recovering from that's been reeking havok in the USA. Almost everyone I know has had it so far.
-Ed
Last edited:
Here's pics of my Spike Light V3 mounted on a Black Diamond Tracer helmet.
Notice the extra bit of velcro I added, it makes the velcro closure very difficult to accidentally pull off. Like getting snagged on a branch or something.
Can't wait to see some light shine from my Spike Light V3.
Notice the extra bit of velcro I added, it makes the velcro closure very difficult to accidentally pull off. Like getting snagged on a branch or something.
Can't wait to see some light shine from my Spike Light V3.
ahorton
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2008
- Messages
- 715
I'm worried about the fact that the 17670s give a flash and then nothing.
Can I assume that they are normal lithium-based cells with a maximum voltage of 4.2V?
The brief flash suggests to me that they are tripping their protection circuits. This should not be happening unless they have a very low trip current (unlikely).
If you have a multimeter, check the voltage of your cell, then put it in the headlamp and check the voltage again (you can use the empty slot to check the voltage).
If it starts outside the 3.0 - 4.2V range, then we want to know why.
If it drops to 0V when in the headlamp, then we want to know why.
Can I assume that they are normal lithium-based cells with a maximum voltage of 4.2V?
The brief flash suggests to me that they are tripping their protection circuits. This should not be happening unless they have a very low trip current (unlikely).
If you have a multimeter, check the voltage of your cell, then put it in the headlamp and check the voltage again (you can use the empty slot to check the voltage).
If it starts outside the 3.0 - 4.2V range, then we want to know why.
If it drops to 0V when in the headlamp, then we want to know why.
ahorton
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2008
- Messages
- 715
On a different note:
Do the curved brackets fit the helmet well enough?
Do the curved brackets fit the helmet well enough?
The 17670 is an AW 1600mAH one and measures 4.159V by itself, 4.158V when in the Headlamp.
Am I not turning it on correctly? I tried several combinations of long presses and shorter presses.
Last edited:
Pretty much, but they're being held securely by clips on the helmet. The clips are a bit small, though.
ahorton
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2008
- Messages
- 715
Well the voltages are both good so we need to look deeper for an explanation. This may take a little while, but I say we keep the discussion in the public thread so that others can learn from it.
There could be something going on with the cells that I don't understand. The two protection circuits may be confusing each other. Try to connect one of your other flat-top cells. I've sent magnets to you but they won't arrive for a while. So just push the -ve end against the spring and use a paperclip or a small scrap of wire (etc) to connect the +ve end to the brass contact in the headlight.
See what that does. Does it just flash briefly or does it stay on?
How long is 'briefly'? Is it an immeasurably short flash? Or is it longer (say one or two seconds)?
To turn it on or off, you would normally just hold it down all the way until it turns on/off. You don't release the button until it's done what you want. I doubt this is the problem since it should not turn itself off in the first place. When you first connect the cells, the two flood LEDs should come on and stay on. I'm trying to work out why they are turning off.
