Spike Light - V3

[lampeDépêche]

This may take a little while, but I say we keep the discussion in the public thread so that others can learn from it.

May I just say, that's one of the noblest sentiments that I've ever heard a manufacturer express?

If that was the only thing I had ever heard you say, I would still know, straight off, that you are committed not only to customer service, but to genuine transparency and above-board dealings. My hat is off to you.

 

[eh4]

No doubt.

 

[Edwood]

I used a spacer with an AW 18650-3100. I read 3.850V with it in place in the empty slot, and it still does not work. The 2 flood lights light up briefly, but nothing else happens.


Just put in two 17670's and now it's working. Not sure why, as I've tried two batteries before.

But then after removing the batteries and reinserting it won't work again. Something is definitely not right.

-Ed

 

[Edwood]

How long is 'briefly'? Is it an immeasurably short flash? Or is it longer (say one or two seconds)?

Oh yeah, forgot to answer this one, it flashe longer, like about 1 second long.

 

[ahorton]

Agreed, something is not right. I'll start getting a replacement ready, but we might as well find the fault.

It sounds to me like the switch is being held closed.

Take the button out. There's a tiny stainless steel screw in the back that you'll need to remove. A 0.9mm allen key is the proper tool, but a tiny screwdriver or similar will work fine. Be careful as you remove it, since the button is spring-loaded and will shoot across the room.

With the magnet removed, try putting the lithium cell back in. The flood LEDs should come on and stay on. If they don't stay on, then the problem is internal.

If the problem is internal then there's no easy fix. If it's just the button, then I can send you a few replacements for just the button.

 

[Edwood]

Agreed, something is not right. I'll start getting a replacement ready, but we might as well find the fault.

It sounds to me like the switch is being held closed.

Take the button out. There's a tiny stainless steel screw in the back that you'll need to remove. A 0.9mm allen key is the proper tool, but a tiny screwdriver or similar will work fine. Be careful as you remove it, since the button is spring-loaded and will shoot across the room.

With the magnet removed, try putting the lithium cell back in. The flood LEDs should come on and stay on. If they don't stay on, then the problem is internal.

If the problem is internal then there's no easy fix. If it's just the button, then I can send you a few replacements for just the button.

OK, just removed the button. No change. Although the Aspheric X-RE lit up briefly with the Floods as well one time. Weird.

Also, when putting in a Cell for the first time, it has a split second flicker before the floods are on, then shutting off about a second later.

I tried putting a strong neodymium magnet near the switch bottom area with the button out, but no effect at all.

The little magnet in the button is strong enough for it to stick to ferrous metals just fine.

 

[ahorton]

That's upsetting. Looks like it's more than just a simple fix. So I'll send a new V3 asap.

My guess is that if you took the lens off (you'd need a 1/16 allen/hex key) and put a multimeter across the reed switch, then you'd find the switch to be permanently closed. Feel free to do that if you feel like it, but I'm going to replace the whole thing anyway.

I have no idea what could have broken the switch in transport. It's inside the body and nothing can touch it.

 

[Edwood]

That's upsetting. Looks like it's more than just a simple fix. So I'll send a new V3 asap.

My guess is that if you took the lens off (you'd need a 1/16 allen/hex key) and put a multimeter across the reed switch, then you'd find the switch to be permanently closed. Feel free to do that if you feel like it, but I'm going to replace the whole thing anyway.

I have no idea what could have broken the switch in transport. It's inside the body and nothing can touch it.

I don't know if I have an allen key that small, I'll certainly open it up and try measuring the reed switch if I can.

Maybe temp or pressure changes caused damage? Or just defective switch? Who knows. The package was in good condition when I got it, and customs didn't open the package.

Thanks in advance for sending a replacement. I got it to work for 5 minutes for some reason last night. Not sure how, couldn't duplicate it again. But it was a glorious 5 minutes, LOL. The Switch actuation is really nice and smooth. I like it a lot.

 

[ahorton]

I'd like to think that it's fairly immune to reasonable pressure and temperature. The whole point of using a reed switch is that nothing can get to it to damage it. It may be defective, but it was working fine when it left here. I don't like the idea that a switch can just fail by itself!

One last crazy thought: Are you standing on a powerful magnet? Were you away from that magnet when it worked for 5 minutes?

 

[Edwood]

LOL, no it happened in the same place where it wasn't working, at my desk. If there was a powerful magnet there, I think my HDD's in my computer next to me wouldn't be working well.

I tried a small neodymium magnet after I removed the button just to see if it would do anything.

Yeah, your guess is as good as mine as to why it doesn't work. I can't find a 1/16" allen key, if you have a spare, throw it in the outgoing parcel if you can.

 

[uk_caver]

I have had one case of a reed switch misbehaving and locking on semi-permanently after experimenting with some (not ridiculously strong) magnets to work out suitable orientations and distances, while switching very low currents, even after working fine with what seemed like similar kinds of magnetic fields.

Operation seemed intermittent, with no obvious pattern to when it worked and when it didn't - if someone had told me there was some hidden person playing with a big magnet I would have found it hard to disprove them even though there definitely wasn't.

 

[Edwood]

I'm going to shoot a video to show exactly what's going on. At the least it can help others troubleshoot if someone has the same problem (hopefully not).

 

[Edwood]

Youtube video.



Video is unlisted.

 

[ahorton]

That looks exactly like the switch is being held closed. So no amount of button pressing will help.

 

[Lips]

Ash

Wondering if anyway to track at least to customs with the standard shipping option? Is it signature required shipping? No joy yet!

thanks

 

[ahorton]

In theory there does exist a cheaper tracking option, but I think it's a waste of money because:
1. It cannot be insured.
2. A signature is not required on delivery.
3. Tracking is not guaranteed once it leaves Australia (I found this out the hard way).

I haven't offered it because people might get the wrong idea and think that 'tracking' means more than finding out the date it left Australia!

 

[Gregozedobe]

....I would still know, straight off, that you are committed not only to customer service

As a past customer of Ash's I can say with absolute certainty he stands stoutly behind his lights and will do whatever it takes to fix any problems. Definitely a top person to deal with :twothumbs

 

[Edwood]

As a past customer of Ash's I can say with absolute certainty he stands stoutly behind his lights and will do whatever it takes to fix any problems. Definitely a top person to deal with :twothumbs

Yes, absolutely, as recently seen in how he's handling my DOA Spike Light V3. Thanks so much, Ash!

 

[Lips]

Touchdown today! Few minutes to figure out UI, nice.


On the extra modes in the Competition + UI.

I don't seem to be able to get the battery meter or the all on 100% mode, or I don't understand how it works.

On extra modes I step through these: Fast Strobe (2 x xpg), Medium Strobe (2 x xpg), Slow Strobe (2 x xpg), Two flashes with 3 second interval (1 x right xpg), SOS (xpe).


Need a little help on figuring this out. Was looking specifically for the all 100% on mode.

thanks

 

[ahorton]

Touchdown today! Few minutes to figure out UI, nice.

Good to hear!

On extra modes I step through these: Fast Strobe (2 x xpg), Medium Strobe (2 x xpg), Slow Strobe (2 x xpg), Two flashes with 3 second interval (1 x right xpg), SOS (xpe).

That's the battery indicator. You have a charge level of 2/5. This is quite low, so the 'Everything 100%' mode has been disabled. Soon it will also start disable the brightest flood modes and the spot.

It's not perfectly accurate. Each flash does not represent exactly 20% cell-energy left. Lithium cells do not have a flat discharge curve and each brand of cell is different. It also measures the voltage under load, so it will depend how you've been using it before you go to the indicator.

Think of it like this: Four or five flashes is basically full. One or Two flashes is running out.

By disabling the 'Everything 100%' mode, you can get hours or even days more runtime on the lower modes, whereas the 'Everything 100%' mode might have triggered the cells' protection circuits within minutes. Once the cells' protections are triggered, the whole thing will shut down without warning and you'll be in total darkness.

This would be bad. If you're using the brightest modes, you're probably not sitting safely in an armchair! It's more likely that you're cycling down a hill, running around trees, canoeing down a river, or surfing in the waves, etc. I've done all of these with my headlights and the thought of suddenly being in total darkness does not appeal to me!