Sold/Expired SSC P7 Buck Converter

[Der Wichtel]

in a 2D you can shorten the spring. In the 4D you have to remove the spring.
Then there is about 3mm space left between tailcap and batterie.
With a piece of foam and copper wire you can fill the gap.

The buck converter costs 20€ plus 3€ shipping to the UK

 

[Disco888]

Can I take one then? How do I go about paying you?

Disco

 

[Der Wichtel]

just send you a pm with the information

 

[Disco888]

:twothumbs Cheers Der Witchel :paypal:

Thanks for your help

 

[ktafil]

Der I have read good things about your buck converter, and hope to order one soon.

Just a couple of questions----I am hoping to do a single P7 mod with your buck converter, I am new to this and so am wondering about batteries-- I have either a 2D or a 4D maglite to do the mod in----wot solutions/options are there for good results????? Which host would give the better mod?????

I have read lots and lots of threads on mag modding but am a bit confused as to what people are using to power the torches...

Disco

All depending on wich batteries / charger you have or intend to use.
And much depending on what runtime you want.
Most common now are still NIMH cells.
I used a 4D to make a ROP m@G. this one takes 6 sub-C cells and have 5000mAh wich will give you about 4.5 to 5 hrs of runtime with wichtels driver (about 1amp from the tailcap) and a seoul-P7
For my P7 i used a 6xAA to 2D converter (selfmade) with 6 2850mAh AA batteries in a 2D M@g. This gives me about 2.5 hrs runtime (did not actually perform the runtest yet but this is calculated!)
On li-ion i am not an expert, but you need special charging equipment to charge these.
Hope you can make a choice and good luck with your buit!
and......:welcome:!!!

 

[CBR-runner]

I use the 8 AA adapter form the sandwich shoppie. it works good but doesn't fit the energized NIMH rechargeable batteries. So i use standard 1.5v AA LI batteries.

I have not done a runtime yet but it is still bright as heck after a couple weeks of playing around.

 

[supasizefries]

Hello Wichtel, I purchased a newer version of your buck driver from someone from the forums. Is there anyway I can tell which one I have? I want to know if I have the one that is limited to 10.5V or the one with 4.1V. Any info would help.

Also, somewhere in your thread you mentioned that if I have an amp meter connected in series to the p7, I should turn the dial anti-clockwise until I get around 2.4 amps because it will go up to 2.8A when the amp meter is removed. Does this hold true for a DSWPJ bin P7? I want to make sure I'm not underdriving my P7. I did not adjust the pot at all when I installed it. Thanks. Really great driver btw! :D

 

[Der Wichtel]

there must be a sticker with VS2 or VS1.
If you have VS2 then it is limited to around 4.1V.

Yes it's the same with DSWPJ

 

[supasizefries]

Thank you for the information. :thumbsup:

 

[Disco888]

:twothumbs Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I know I'm probably asking daft questions that have been asked 100000's of times before but when searching there is just too much informatiion and finding the relevant bit seems an uphill struggle.

Thanks also for making me feel so welcome as well:thumbsup:

One question: how exactly do I wire up the buck converter?? Don't wanna make a mistake when I get it...

Cheers
Disco

 

[Disco888]

All depending on wich batteries / charger you have or intend to use.
And much depending on what runtime you want.
Most common now are still NIMH cells.
I used a 4D to make a ROP m@G. this one takes 6 sub-C cells and have 5000mAh wich will give you about 4.5 to 5 hrs of runtime with wichtels driver (about 1amp from the tailcap) and a seoul-P7
For my P7 i used a 6xAA to 2D converter (selfmade) with 6 2850mAh AA batteries in a 2D M@g. This gives me about 2.5 hrs runtime (did not actually perform the runtest yet but this is calculated!)
On li-ion i am not an expert, but you need special charging equipment to charge these.
Hope you can make a choice and good luck with your buit!
and......:welcome:!!!

Hi Ktafil,

What are sub- C cells? Had a look at the links----thinking of using the 4D for my first mod---and then like the idea of a 6AA to 2D converter dor my second build---

for the first build I'm thinking of 18650s as I have a few lying around, but also quite like the sub-c conversion

So many choices, so little time (and money)

Its an addiction I tell you and I have it

Thanks again
Disco:popcorn:

 

[supasizefries]

Wichtel shows the wiring HERE

 

[Der Wichtel]

here is the wiring:

http://daoriginal.da.funpic.de/data/Dcon/diagram.jpg

Edit:

seems like supasizefries was faster ^^

 

[Disco888]

Cheers for that:twothumbs

Disco

 

[Disco888]

Hi Der Wichtel just wondering when this is likely to get sent out---many thanks

Disoc

 

[Der Wichtel]

Hi,
it's already shipped

 

[Disco888]

Excellent.....Many thanks!!!!! Look forward to receiving it

Thanks,
Disco

 

[hudja]

Hi! I purchased your converter a while ago and I want to run one P7 from 12V battery, I will use various types starting from 1,5A. Do I need to adjust the converter for 12V input or it is already pre-adjusted? I will also probably run it from 6V battery. Could you please give me brief instructions for this adjustment procedure?

Shall I use the same wiring as on this photo? (my converter comes with red/red with black stripe/ black wires)

http://daoriginal.da.funpic.de/data/Dcon/diagram.jpg

Thanks!

 

[Der Wichtel]

hi,
yes you can use the same wiring diagram.

You can hook up a currentmeter in series with the led ( between driver and led). Then adjust the current to 2.4A. If you remove your currentmeter the current will rise up to about 2.8A to 3A.

It does not matter which input voltage you are using.

 

[Disco888]

To do this check in series, does that mean it needs to be done before LED and driver are attached by both wires??? Or have I got myself confused?
(it wouldn't be the first time!!)

Disco