Stock Mag Mod

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Bruce B

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Atascadero, CA
Does anyone know what's the brightest STOCK mag mod using only the parts that came with the mag and either a C or D cell mag.

I'm on a budget and at this time will not be buying any additional parts for this mod, aside from what I can get at the local B&M aka Home Depot or Orchard Supply.
 
One of my first "mods" was with a 2C Mag, three CR123 primaries, and a 6D bulb. Shorten the tail cap spring about 1/4", use some thin cardboard to make a battery tube, and you're done. My lightbox measurement show around 130 lumens out the front. You could try a 5D bulb, but you might drive it too hard on the primaries and flash the bulb.

I run the 5D bulb on a pair of 18650s in a 3C body (with a 14mm aluminum space to make up the length difference), which give a total of 8.4 volts off the charger, and puts out ~170 lumens.

Interestingly, my output in that setup went from 170 lumens to about 220, when I replaced the stock reflector with a Fivemega camless hybrid. I didn't realize how much light was getting loss down the cam hole.

I tried a 4D bulb on the 18650s and it flashed.
 
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Does anyone know what's the brightest STOCK mag mod using only the parts that came with the mag and either a C or D cell mag.
The trouble is finding hot bulbs with a PR base. Obviously you can stack quite a lot of Lithium cells (rechargeable or primary) in a 6D Mag, but the PR bulbs I know of are:
  • Mag (or similar) flashlight bulbs -- 0.7A, available up to 9V (for a 6-cell light; gives 6.3W). As suggested, 3 Lithium primaries will give 9V, so stock 6D brightness in a 2C body -- I'd bet the 5-cell bulb works too, and if so, it would be brighter yet. Alternatively, you could try 3 Li-ions with the 6-cell bulb, but I'd expect :poof: if they're fully charged. But running any Mag bulbs at rated conditions is the worst option on the table here. Their only merit is availability, and that only because you've arbitrarily constrained yourself to local purchases.
  • Pelican Big-D bulbs: The famed ROP, these are higher wattage, and come in a two-pack (one 24W, and one 11W), but run at only 6V. They run good off 2 Li-ions, or 6-7 NiMH, and are almost certainly the brightest you can do to fit your requirements if you can find them. The high particularly is hot enough to melt the various plastic components inside your light though, so it's only good for intermittent use. You can always buy a better reflector and switch later to upgrade it for continuous duty.
  • "Automotive" and similar bulbs: Used in flashlights that take cordless drill batteries, in the 12/14.4/18/24 V area. If you filled a 6C Mag with 6 IMR26500s, or other C-sized Li-ions, you'd have 22.2V nominal, 25.2V hot, enough to run a 24V bulb handily. Fill a 6D with 7, and you get 25.9 nominal, 29.4 hot. Will a 24V bulb take 29.4V, or maybe an 18V take 25.2V? :thinking: Only one way to find out... Also, bulbs actually intended for automotive applications may be ok on 4 Li-ions, as they have to handle over 14V when charging, and might be available with higher current. I've typically seen these with 0.7A current draw (like the Mags, but much higher voltage), so a 24V bulb at spec would be 16.8W, between the high and low ROP. But I think you're more likely to find these locally than Pelican bulbs, and you just may find some that are even higher wattage.
  • Potted bi-pins: Most of the interesting bulbs have a bi-pin base, like the mini-mag bulbs, but bigger. You can sometimes get some of these specially mounted in a PR base -- but not locally, so I guess they're out for you.

About putting a 4-cell bulb in a 2-cell light: Unless you put some batteries in there, it's not gonna :poof:, nor will it light up. So, what batteries are you thinking of? 4 cells at 1.5V each is 6V, so on two KOH (3V) or two NiMH (2.4V), I believe you'd get a nice medium-orange glow out of it. Perfect for reading at night, and your batteries will last longer. If you use 2 Lithium primaries (CR123 or similar) and a spacer to fill the light, 3V each makes 6V, so you'd drive it at stock conditions. If you used two Lithium-ions (3.7V nominal, 4.2V hot) for 7.4V/8.4V, it might work (but might just :poof:); definitely the most promising of these options. 3 Lithium primaries is almost certain :poof:, but if it doesn't, would be nice and bright. Nothing like an ROP, though...
 
If I run the "4D" mag bulb in the "2D" host what would happen?

Would the bulb be an instant :poof:?

Depends of what you power it with.

You probably don't want to exceed 7.5 volts. The 8.4 volts that two 18650s hot off the charger caused the 4D bult to go :poof: in my setup.

The higher the rated voltage of the lamp, the more forgiving it is to being overdriven.

YMMV depending on how much resistance your setup has.

In my Mag 3C setup I have the AW soft starter, and a pair of 18650s. Rather than wait for my 1185 bulb and IMR 18500 batteries, I'm running it with a Magcharger bulb. It's overdriven by the 18650s, but the soft start helps, and it hasn't blown yet. It's putting out around 350 lumens, according to my lightbox. Visually it's very similar to a ROP light.
 
I was going to power it with "D" cells once I buy the light... Is this possible or will I need to put this project off and save up some money first? LOL.
 
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What would the lumen output be like in this configuration?

The 3D Xenon lamp is rate at 82.5 lumens (on fresh batteries) so I would guess that overdriven by 4 cells you'll get ~100-110 lumens.
 
I am sure that I have read that the Xenon bulbs are brighter but less happy to be over-driven. I am not too sure how the 3D Xenon would go in a 4D, but a 2D Xenon in a 4D would be insta-:poof: for sure!

If you really want bright then you should look at a ROP Low mod, mine is thus:
Mag 2D
ROP Low Bulb (around $10)
2 x Li-ion D cells (you can use 6 x AA NiMH cells in a holder ($23 for this one: http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.c...d=778&osCsid=e87b5fbded677a610c5c381d285467e4) instead)
Glass lens (around $6)
Aluminium OP reflector (around $10)
This would be good for around 500 Lumen.
But you would have to order some parts online.
 
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The 3 cell krypton will have a longer life in a 4C than a 4D light.
 
Fill a 6D with 7, and you get 25.9 nominal, 29.4 hot. Will a 24V bulb take 29.4V?


Yes, the Osram 64657 flashes at 29.4, but 7 Emoil ( or equivilent wont flash it, as that as you say is hot ( 7 x 4.2v), and the cells tend to settle down to 4.1V with a bit of rest, (they should only be charged to 4.1 for increased life/ performance,) and my lamps never quite saw that much V from a hot charge, as the V drops just enough on start up, and resistance ( despite mods) saves the lamp....its Hot though. Maybee try the 150W lamp instead.
 
  • Pelican Big-D bulbs: The famed ROP, these are higher wattage, and come in a two-pack (one 24W, and one 11W), but run at only 6V. They run good off 2 Li-ions, or 6-7 NiMH, and are almost certainly the brightest you can do to fit your requirements if you can find them.
They aren't that hard to find:
http://www.lighthound.com/Pelican-Big-D-Rechargeable-Lamp-Set-FL-3854_p_1506.html
Listed as being 'in stock'.

This is probably the best option for going to a REALLY good, bright bulb without spending too much. The ROP Low could be used in a stock 6D or in a 2D with battery holder - very cheap and yet bloody good useful light output.

I did try a 2D bulb in my 4D - not bad output, but nothing like as good as my ROP Low, and the bulb life was measured in minutes without hitting double digits!
 

Yeah, but I meant finding them locally, since the OP has expressed a peculiar aversion to the usual source of all flashlight parts.

But if ordering them from any of a number of online sources would work (or if they can be sourced locally), I'd agree; I think a 6C or 6D ROP has to be about the best bang/buck option going. :thumbsup:
 
Yeah, but I meant finding them locally, since the OP has expressed a peculiar aversion to the usual source of all flashlight parts.

Being a broke college student and lacking money has something to do with why I am currently avoiding the usual sources for flashlight parts...
 
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Yeah, but I meant finding them locally, since the OP has expressed a peculiar aversion to the usual source of all flashlight parts.

But if ordering them from any of a number of online sources would work (or if they can be sourced locally), I'd agree; I think a 6C or 6D ROP has to be about the best bang/buck option going. :thumbsup:

I can actually get those bulbs locally, I just realized. One of the local gun stores is a authorized Pelican dealer, as well as dealing in Surefire and Mag.
 
Being a broke college student and lacking money has something to do with why I am currently avoiding the usual sources for flashlight parts...
Oh... student here too; although not really broke (right now), I certainly know what you mean. Thing is though, in my experience you can usually find odds and ends cheaper online than B&M, if you can control shipping costs by shopping around for a place that has everything you need, and/or places with free shipping. (Unless, of course, you're planning to burgle the local B&Ms; harder to break into an online store. ;p)

If you had specified some $ amount you were willing to spend, including shipping, some CPFers who know where the deals, free shipping, etc. are online might have been able to find the stuff. But that's moot, since you did find them locally, so looks like you're ready to start the ROPage! Take a 6C or 6D Mag, change out the bulb for the Pelican low, and you're good to go (for a while). The reflector may start having troubles within ten minutes of continuous operation if left unattended, but in actual use it will get better cooling from motion through air, etc.

As you get more cash to throw at it, there are several incremental upgrades you can do: first thing would be a metal reflector, then you can put in the high bulb for intermittent use, or keep the low bulb and run up to 30 minutes at a time. Next up, replace the plastic window with glass, and you're good for continuous-duty on low, or intermittent (but longer) high. The one last mod, if you really want full ROP-high, would be replacing the tower -- there's one around that should let you dump a whole set of batteries through the high bulb with no ill effects. But honestly, I'd consider the ROP-high finished with the reflector and window, and start saving for the next project then (and maybe sell the ROP to help cover it).

Have fun! :twothumbs
 
Oh... student here too; although not really broke (right now), I certainly know what you mean. Thing is though, in my experience you can usually find odds and ends cheaper online than B&M, if you can control shipping costs by shopping around for a place that has everything you need, and/or places with free shipping. (Unless, of course, you're planning to burgle the local B&Ms; harder to break into an online store. ;p)

If you had specified some $ amount you were willing to spend, including shipping, some CPFers who know where the deals, free shipping, etc. are online might have been able to find the stuff. But that's moot, since you did find them locally, so looks like you're ready to start the ROPage! Take a 6C or 6D Mag, change out the bulb for the Pelican low, and you're good to go (for a while). The reflector may start having troubles within ten minutes of continuous operation if left unattended, but in actual use it will get better cooling from motion through air, etc.

As you get more cash to throw at it, there are several incremental upgrades you can do: first thing would be a metal reflector, then you can put in the high bulb for intermittent use, or keep the low bulb and run up to 30 minutes at a time. Next up, replace the plastic window with glass, and you're good for continuous-duty on low, or intermittent (but longer) high. The one last mod, if you really want full ROP-high, would be replacing the tower -- there's one around that should let you dump a whole set of batteries through the high bulb with no ill effects. But honestly, I'd consider the ROP-high finished with the reflector and window, and start saving for the next project then (and maybe sell the ROP to help cover it).

Have fun! :twothumbs

I doubt I'd sell the ROP once I finish making it... Would be nice to have a "stock" mag to scare the s**t out of people with due to it being intensely bright. And what is this tower you speak of?

:thanks:
 
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