Streamlight 3AA converter mod?

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Icarus

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Nov 1, 2003
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Belgium
I want to mod a Streamlight 3AA, not only change the emitter but also put a converter in it.
Has anyone done this before? After disassembling the head it seems there is not much room available.
 
I am thinking that I'll put a converter board in my 3AA, if I decide to mod it further (currently direct drive on a R2L HD). Using a Kroll tailcap switch, I don't see why you couldn't use the space that the stock switch occupies.
I may put a DB1000, Luxeon III, and some of those 3V AAs in mine(!).
 
Owen,

First I don't want to give up the stock switch, in my opinion it's much better than the Kroll. Second, the Kroll switch doesn't fit very well. I measured both, diameter SL=15,9mm, Kroll=15,7mm. It also, without measuring, looks like they use a different thread.
 
Hunterson,

That's exactly what I was thinking about! Putting in a BB750 + Lux III and shorten the body for using 2 AA NiMh batteries. Unfortunately the pictures don’t show the switch. It looks like the board is removed; however, the switch is soldered on this board, so what about the switch?!
 
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icarus said:
Second, the Kroll switch doesn't fit very well.

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The Kroll fits perfectly on mine, and the stock tail interchanges with that of a MiniMag. I had a MM tail on there (for the lanyard hole-didn't care for the stock one) before going to the Kroll.
Personally, I don't care for the stock switch with it's "reverse" momentary on, at all. Guess that's a matter of personal taste. I just use it for a lockout when the light is in a toolbag, to make sure the tailcap doesn't get turned on accidentally.
 
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Strange, I have two SL and several MM but I can't use the tail of the SL on the MM and visa versa.
 
That is strange /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
I examined the pictures again on the Japanese site and on the seventh photo the board with the battery contact and the switch is back in place. The converter sits at the back of the board. The room necessary to house the converter is obtained by cutting a rectangular hole in the plastic container.
 
When I did mine in direct drive the stock switch fried. I use a kroll that fits perfect. High domes don't focus using the stock reflector. The 30mm optics fit perfect and looks great!
 
Does anyone know how to safely remove the glue on the threads after removing the head from the body?
 
It seems that NiMh batteries don’t fit! The diameter of the body (inside) = 14,2mm and the diameter of my Memorex NiMh batteries = 14,3 mm. It's the same story for both of my SF's!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Owen said:
I am thinking that I'll put a converter board in my 3AA, if I decide to mod it further (currently direct drive on a R2L HD). Using a Kroll tailcap switch, I don't see why you couldn't use the space that the stock switch occupies.
I may put a DB1000, Luxeon III, and some of those 3V AAs in mine(!).

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3V AA batteries???
 
[ QUOTE ]
G Pilot said:
When I did mine in direct drive the stock switch fried. I use a kroll that fits perfect. High domes don't focus using the stock reflector. The 30mm optics fit perfect and looks great!

[/ QUOTE ]

30mm optics fit perfect… so, total height of the 30mm optics = total height stock reflector?
I have read somewhere that the Frean optics for HD can be used too?
 
Email sent, I hope you don't have dial up? I have been using NIMH and NICAD in mine, fits just fine.
 
[ QUOTE ]
G Pilot said:
Email sent, I hope you don't have dial up? I have been using NIMH and NICAD in mine, fits just fine.

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Thanks for the mail. Nice pictures! Are you using a converter or is it DD?
Your NiMh does fit? Which brand/capacity are you using?
How do you get the stock reflector out?
 
I did some measurements:
inside diameter body SL = 14,2 mm; Duracell AA alkaline = 14mm; Philips Multilife 1100 mAh NiMh = 13,9 mm; Memorex 2300 mAh NiMh = 14,3 mm.
 
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