Suitable Li-Ion batteries for Fenix P2D?

[deusexaethera]

My younger brother (16) saw my Arc6 and instantly wanted one. I'd like to be able to get him one, but dropping $250 on a flashlight he'll probably use twice a year -- and probably lose when he goes to college -- doesn't sound like such a great idea. However, something like a Fenix P2D is just as bright and much more affordable.

To keep him from wasting what little money he has on batteries for the thing, I'd like to get some 3V rechargeables to give him along with the light. What I came up with is this:



Does this look good? Will the Fenix P2D shut off when the batteries get too low? I found these batteries listed in the "Li-Ion (protected)" section of Lighthound, but the description says they're unprotected. I guess technically I don't care as long as the light shuts off when they get low. Anyone know for sure if it will?

 

[mdocod]

If you are planning on an RCR123 powered light, the P1D and P2D are NOT the way to go. Look elsewhere, there are plenty of comparable lights out there in a similar price bracket that actually work correctly on a regular protected 3.7V LiCo RCR123 cell.

some examples:

LumaPower incendio
Olight T10
Nightcore EX10
EagleTac P10C or T10C

I don't have time to keep up on all this anymore, so I can't think of any others at the moment, but someone will surely chime in with more options. Again I must stress that if you are buying a 1xCR123 light with the intention of using RCR123s in it, the P1D and P2D are not the way to go.

 

[deusexaethera]

Any particular reason why Fenix is a bad choice? I know they can't run on 3.7v batteries, but there are 3v batteries too, so why not?

EDIT: Hmm, well I guess if they're going to go and make those "better" flashlights the exact same price...

...it would be nice if they were available in natural finish, though.

 

[mdocod]

If you are really set on it, then you should go with these cells IMO:

http://store.peakbattery.com/lfp123a-32-volt-600-mahr-lithium.html

that place seems to sell pretty good stuff from what I am hearing. Their 3.0V RCR123 is probably going to be the best you can find, but the reality is that it's still going to have less stored energy than a 3.7V RCR123, with that in mind, why even go through the mess of having a proprietary cell and charger if you aren't really gaining anything, just get a 1xAA powered light and some eneloops and call it a day, since as far as energy density by volume is concerned, a typical 3.0V RCR123 is not going to be as good as a run of the mill AA NIMH cells anyways.

As far as 3.0V cells are concerned, most on the market are pretty lousy, you are stuck choosing between a LiFePO4 cell with really low capacity, or a voltage bucked LiCo cell that wastes a lot of energy as heat, so really isn't much better than the LiFePO4 in runtime but has more things that can go wrong. If I were in a situation where I was determined to make a 3V only compatible light work on rechargeable cells, I would be ordering those cells I linked to above there to give them a try. You'll need a charger designed for 3.2V LiFePO4 cells that terminates around 3.6-3.8V.

-Eric

 

[deusexaethera]

Okay, both the Lumapower IncenDio and the Nitecore EX10 are rated at 130lm max. The P2D is rated at 180lm max. That might not make much difference for reading a book, but for lighting up trees across the street from my house (my standard test for whether a light meets my spec for being "really f***ing bright), it could be make-or-break.

I don't want to get my brother a light that isn't as good as mine, because I don't want him to think I'm saving the good stuff only for myself. Can anyone confirm whether the Lumapower IncenDio and/or the Nitecore EX10 are actually just as bright as the Fenix P1D/P2D? I know those pass my across-the-street test.

 

[deusexaethera]

Also, because I already own a couple of Fenixes, it would nonetheless be useful to me to know if they can shut off before they destroy the batteries I linked to in my first post.

EDIT: Wow, that Nitecore EX10 is really nice. I think that's actually better-designed than the Arc6, in terms of features if not aesthetics. I think I'll get him that one.

 

[LightWalker]

I have the Fenix P2D and Nitecore EX10 and can tell you they are about the same brightness on max.
Fenix measures output from the L.E.D. Nitecore measures output from out the front of the lens so Nitecores 130 lumens is about the same as Fenix 180 lumens.

The EX10 works well on 3.7v Li-ion batteries and is a very nice light.

 

[deusexaethera]

I have the Fenix P2D and Nitecore EX10 and can tell you they are about the same brightness on max.
Fenix measures output from the L.E.D. Nitecore measures output from out the front of the lens so Nitecores 130 lumens is about the same as Fenix 180 lumens.

The EX10 works well on 3.7v Li-ion batteries and is a very nice light.

Very good, thanks.

 

[StarHalo]

I don't know that I would trust Li-Ion cell handling and maintenance to a teenager who may "lose" the light..

 

[LightWalker]

Yo can find beamshots of both lights here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=211251

 

[cave dave]

The Nitecore D10 is a better choice than an Ex10 for your brother in my opinion. Same feature set but it uses AA batteries. Get him some eneloops and a charger to go with it.

It can also run on LiIon 14500's which have more capacity than LiIon Cr123's. However; I would not recommend he use LiIon unless he understands how to use and charge them safely. A good LiIon charger like the Pila is over $40. Quality Cells are around $10 each.

 

[mdocod]

I'd have to agree on the AA concept for family/friends/gifts etc.

 

[deusexaethera]

He's a smart kid, I'm not worried. In some ways he's smarter than me, hard as that is to believe. (He recreated a 3D model of a Mario Kart by hand on his laptop, and drew his own textures to overlay on the wireframe. :ooo:)

Besides, one of the initial stipulations was that whatever I get him should be as close to my Arc6 as possible, without costing an arm and a leg. Protected RCR123's should be all the safeguarding he'll need.

 

[cave dave]

The Nitecore D10 and Ex10 is the closest thing to an Arc6 you can get in a production light. In fact I prefer the Nitecore PD lights, they are more efficient, lots cheaper and have a better interface, IMO. Get the R2 version not the Q5, my R2 is noticeably brighter.

The rCR123 offers very little real advantage compared to a top quality AA Nimh, and the AA is so much easier to deal with. In fact if he is only going to use it once or twice a year why bother with rechargeable at all? A 12 pack of primary Li might last him a very long time.

The D10 / Ex10 comparison review is here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=202436

Interpretation of results:
D10 max Rcr: 58 lightbox units (LBU) dropping to 55 LBU avg for 1hr 19min
EX10 max 2650 Nimh: 67 LBU dropping in 15min to 57LBU for 53min total.

The Ex10 starts out brighter but ends up the same in 15 min while the D10 runs 26min longer (49% longer runtime)

 

[tabetha]

I have a FENIX P3D Q5, and run it on
2 X 3.7V lion batts.
I did contact fenix and they emailed me saying it was ok , and has been for two years, even though I only really use it on high setting.
Must say I prefer the AA battery lights better, as always have a ready chaged supply of these to go.
tabetha

 

[mdocod]

I have a FENIX P3D Q5, and run it on
2 X 3.7V lion batts.
I did contact fenix and they emailed me saying it was ok , and has been for two years, even though I only really use it on high setting.
Must say I prefer the AA battery lights better, as always have a ready chaged supply of these to go.
tabetha

The P3D uses a buck circuit that can actually handle well over 9V input, the P1D and P2D are different animals...

 

[deusexaethera]

Well, the die is cast. I ordered the EX10 and a Nano charger and a couple of AW protected Li-Ion batteries. Should make for a nice birthday present.