This post was returned to the thread on 2/8/06.
In this installment, we'll consider some of the other components of SuperMag mods.
1. The principal components of a SuperMag mod, continued
d. The batteries: Mags come in C and D-cell bodies and each lends itself to specific types of battery configurations although what will fit in a C will fit in a D but not vice versa. While the standard alkaline cell battery is fine for stock lights, these cells are incapable of powering the superbulbs. Instead of 350-900mA current demands, superbulbs typically start at 1.6A and go as high as 4A. At the high end, the demand is far too extreme for alkaline or even lithium CR123 cells. What happens if you try to run a superbulb on these cells? Two things which are both bad. First, the bulb will accept the voltage of the cell stack it's hooked up to but it will naturally try to draw the current that its filament design demands. When the current demand is too high, the voltage will drop and the current will hit the limit determined by the cell's internal structure and resistance. In tests I've run, SF123 cells under 3.85A load have dropped from 4V down to 0.3V! The end result is a light that is very dim or at least performing well below it's potential. The second bad thing that happens is cell heating. Because cells have internal resistance, in some ways it is useful to think of them as resistors. Because of this internal resistance, they will dissipate part of the energy passing through them as heat. It is not unusual for cells to get slightly warm during use or even quite warm during fast charging. But sustained high temperatures will diminish cell capacity and power. In the worst case, the heating is sufficient to cause leakage of electrolyte or gases through the safety vents. In this case, the cell is permanently damaged. I've measured cell surface temperatures of over 145F, in the danger zone.
So how do we provide the power that these superbulbs need? There are two approaches. The first is to use parallel strings. That is, instead of using a single string of cells, we wire two or more strings electrically parallel. This has the effect of decreasing the load on each string by better than the inverse of the number strings in parallel. Also, the capacity is increased by better than the number of strings. All good things but at the expense of size and cost. Still, if powerful but infrequently used lights are desired, a double string of lithium primary (non-rechargeable) cells may be the preferred solution.
More commonly, we resort to cell chemistries that are capable of comfortably supplying the superbulbs with the volts and amps they demand. Nickel cadmium (nicad) and nickel metal hydride (nimh) secondary (rechargeable) cells are the most common and most cost effective options. Presently, nimh cells are preferred for their higher power densities over nicad of up to 40%. Serendipitously, a triple stack and sometimes quad stack of AA cells will fit perfectly well inside a D-body. Although less commonly done, AAAs are also stackable in C bodies.
Let's clarify the terminology. "Strings" will designate cells in a circuit. "Stacks" will designate a geometrical arrangement of cells irrespective of circuit arrangement. So, a double string of 4xCR123, 1800mAh cells will supply 16V no-load and 3600mAh of capacity. A triple stack (triangular arrangement) of 9xAA, 2000mAh will provide 12V no-load and 2000mAh of capacity.
Recently, rechargeable R123 lithium and lithium ion cells (Pila is one such manufacturer) have started to see action in torches. While these cells provide high voltage density, they are costly and may not be suitable for the most demanding of superbulbs. Also, there has been little to no published data on how these cells perform with superbulbs. One would be remiss, however, to deny that with the right bulb/battery/body combination, these cells make for stunning "sleeper" lights.
Lead acid and lithium polymer are other chemistries capable of handling the extreme current demands of superbulbs. But since these cells are typically not available in cylindrical form factors, they are not a good match for the Mag tube torch bodies.
Another thing to be aware of when using cells is that generally, the higher the capacity, the lower the current capability. This is manifested as lower voltage under high amp loads. For example, while 2500mAh AAs may be suitable for low-drain consumer electronics, 3A superbulbs typically perform best with AAs of 2100mAh capacity or less. Note that using higher capacity cells may in fact turn out to be a negative as under higher than comfortable loads for the given cells, voltage will drop more and capacity will be diminished potentially resulting in equivalent or even degraded performance.
e. The power system: The simplicity of Mag modding is a large factor in its popularity. But still, how does one pack an arbitrary number of AA or CR123 cells in a body designed for C or D cells? For single stack setups, a spacer tube is the best approach. Whether using foam rubber pipe insulation, rubber hose or PVC pipe augmented with layers of tape, this approach is simple, cheap and undeniably effective. If the desired stack is shorter than the stock setup, inserting a small compression spring (such as found at hardware stores) can make up the missing length and provide contact. If the stack is marginally longer than stock such that the tailspring interferes or threatens to crush cell, then removing the tailspring, grinding out the anodizing from the inside of the tailcap and installing a compression spring is the easy way to solve this issue.
But what if we want to use multiple stacks of cells, for example, three stacks of three AAs comprising a string/circuit of 9 cells. There are two routes. The first approach is to either have a pack custom made (batterystation, cheapbatterypacks, battlepacks) or solder/build a pack yourself. The advantages are a) lowest possible contact resistance between cells and overall b) easy charging if you have a flexible charger (MAHA 777+, Hitec CG-340 or Great Planes Triton). Conversely, the disadvantages are a) you can't freely use some of these cells in other applications and b) You need a flexible charging system. However, for dedicated applications or if you like "rolling your own", this method can't be beat.
The second approach to using a variable number of AA cells in a D body is to employ an adapter of some sort. In the past, 3AA, 4AA, 6AA and 8AA battery holders have been modified to work in Mag tubes. It's doable, but it's not always easy and almost always requires some rewiring and soldering which has been a deterrent to the casual modder. More recently, Elektrolumens has provided a ready-made 3xAA to D adapter called the "3-D." This adapter, now in its second revision allows one to substitute up to 3AAs (in series only) in the space of a D cell. Thus, if one were so inclined, with the use of metal rod dummy cells, one could fit anywhere from 1AA up to 9AA in a Mag 3D body. This is one piece of equipment that broadens the appeal and accessibility of Mag modding to the masses. The advantages of using an adapter system are a) that the cells can always be removed and used elsewhere and b) the cells can be charged in cheap and simple multislot chargers such as the MAHA C401-FS. The disadvantages are in potential contact resistance and a few other use issues such as improper loading of the AAs.
f. The body: While the range of body lengths is enough to satisfy most any modding need (from 2C up to 6D), some might desire extra flexibility in cell usage. In this case, making or purchasing body extension rings in sizes from 1/2D to 2D and beyond is possible. Sometimes, extra length can be found inside the light itself in the tailcap. Some mods require a mere 1cm of length and this can typically be found by removing the stiff stock tailspring , grinding out the inside of the tailcap (to provide a circuit path) and installing a compression spring. No one need be the wiser regarding this stealthy mod.
Since this post has gotten pretty long, I'll forego talking about mods fine tuning in lieu of providing some recipes for the most popular mods.
b]Mag Mod Recipes[/b
Where there are multiple options, they are listed in order of preference.
A. Mag85BP
Body: Mag 3D
Bulb: Welch Allyn WA01185 9.6V, 3.15A, 817 spec bulb-lumens
Lens: UCL (Borofloat for extreme use)
Reflector: Fivemega OP Cammed drop-in, modified Carley RF1940 or Otokoyama PMR (out of production)
Batteries: 9 x 2100mAh AA nimh, 2200/2000mAh nimh in single string, triple stack or 2 x 4 x CR123 double string of 4 x CR123 in parallel
Battery holder: Elektrolumens 3-D V2 (currently out of stock/prodution)
Supplemental: For PR-base potted WA01185, none needed. To use bare bi-pin bulb, install the MC BP mod.
Notes: This is an overdrive mod and the brightest easy flashlight mod known. It delivers over 1,200 bulb-lumens translating to 800 out the front of the torch.
A. Mag18C
Body: Mag 4C
Bulb: Welch Allyn WA01318 (or WA01331) 9.6V, 1.93A, 534 spec bulb-lumens
Lens: UCL (Borofloat for extreme use)
Reflector: Fivemega OP Cammed drop-in, modified Carley RF1940 or Otokoyama PMR (out of production)
Batteries: 4.5 x CR123 (4 x CR123 + 1 x AA lithium)
Battery holder: PVC tube with tape ring spacers, foam or rubber hose
Supplemental: For PR-base potted WA01318, none needed. To use bare bi-pin bulb, install the MC BP mod.
Notes: This is an overdrive mod and suitable for backup storage use. It makes over 900 bulb lumens and nearly 600 out the front.
Well, Iet's get started with that. I'll be back later to post more mod recipes. Feel free to request specific ones you might be interested in.
Wilkey
In this installment, we'll consider some of the other components of SuperMag mods.
1. The principal components of a SuperMag mod, continued
d. The batteries: Mags come in C and D-cell bodies and each lends itself to specific types of battery configurations although what will fit in a C will fit in a D but not vice versa. While the standard alkaline cell battery is fine for stock lights, these cells are incapable of powering the superbulbs. Instead of 350-900mA current demands, superbulbs typically start at 1.6A and go as high as 4A. At the high end, the demand is far too extreme for alkaline or even lithium CR123 cells. What happens if you try to run a superbulb on these cells? Two things which are both bad. First, the bulb will accept the voltage of the cell stack it's hooked up to but it will naturally try to draw the current that its filament design demands. When the current demand is too high, the voltage will drop and the current will hit the limit determined by the cell's internal structure and resistance. In tests I've run, SF123 cells under 3.85A load have dropped from 4V down to 0.3V! The end result is a light that is very dim or at least performing well below it's potential. The second bad thing that happens is cell heating. Because cells have internal resistance, in some ways it is useful to think of them as resistors. Because of this internal resistance, they will dissipate part of the energy passing through them as heat. It is not unusual for cells to get slightly warm during use or even quite warm during fast charging. But sustained high temperatures will diminish cell capacity and power. In the worst case, the heating is sufficient to cause leakage of electrolyte or gases through the safety vents. In this case, the cell is permanently damaged. I've measured cell surface temperatures of over 145F, in the danger zone.
So how do we provide the power that these superbulbs need? There are two approaches. The first is to use parallel strings. That is, instead of using a single string of cells, we wire two or more strings electrically parallel. This has the effect of decreasing the load on each string by better than the inverse of the number strings in parallel. Also, the capacity is increased by better than the number of strings. All good things but at the expense of size and cost. Still, if powerful but infrequently used lights are desired, a double string of lithium primary (non-rechargeable) cells may be the preferred solution.
More commonly, we resort to cell chemistries that are capable of comfortably supplying the superbulbs with the volts and amps they demand. Nickel cadmium (nicad) and nickel metal hydride (nimh) secondary (rechargeable) cells are the most common and most cost effective options. Presently, nimh cells are preferred for their higher power densities over nicad of up to 40%. Serendipitously, a triple stack and sometimes quad stack of AA cells will fit perfectly well inside a D-body. Although less commonly done, AAAs are also stackable in C bodies.
Let's clarify the terminology. "Strings" will designate cells in a circuit. "Stacks" will designate a geometrical arrangement of cells irrespective of circuit arrangement. So, a double string of 4xCR123, 1800mAh cells will supply 16V no-load and 3600mAh of capacity. A triple stack (triangular arrangement) of 9xAA, 2000mAh will provide 12V no-load and 2000mAh of capacity.
Recently, rechargeable R123 lithium and lithium ion cells (Pila is one such manufacturer) have started to see action in torches. While these cells provide high voltage density, they are costly and may not be suitable for the most demanding of superbulbs. Also, there has been little to no published data on how these cells perform with superbulbs. One would be remiss, however, to deny that with the right bulb/battery/body combination, these cells make for stunning "sleeper" lights.
Lead acid and lithium polymer are other chemistries capable of handling the extreme current demands of superbulbs. But since these cells are typically not available in cylindrical form factors, they are not a good match for the Mag tube torch bodies.
Another thing to be aware of when using cells is that generally, the higher the capacity, the lower the current capability. This is manifested as lower voltage under high amp loads. For example, while 2500mAh AAs may be suitable for low-drain consumer electronics, 3A superbulbs typically perform best with AAs of 2100mAh capacity or less. Note that using higher capacity cells may in fact turn out to be a negative as under higher than comfortable loads for the given cells, voltage will drop more and capacity will be diminished potentially resulting in equivalent or even degraded performance.
e. The power system: The simplicity of Mag modding is a large factor in its popularity. But still, how does one pack an arbitrary number of AA or CR123 cells in a body designed for C or D cells? For single stack setups, a spacer tube is the best approach. Whether using foam rubber pipe insulation, rubber hose or PVC pipe augmented with layers of tape, this approach is simple, cheap and undeniably effective. If the desired stack is shorter than the stock setup, inserting a small compression spring (such as found at hardware stores) can make up the missing length and provide contact. If the stack is marginally longer than stock such that the tailspring interferes or threatens to crush cell, then removing the tailspring, grinding out the anodizing from the inside of the tailcap and installing a compression spring is the easy way to solve this issue.
But what if we want to use multiple stacks of cells, for example, three stacks of three AAs comprising a string/circuit of 9 cells. There are two routes. The first approach is to either have a pack custom made (batterystation, cheapbatterypacks, battlepacks) or solder/build a pack yourself. The advantages are a) lowest possible contact resistance between cells and overall b) easy charging if you have a flexible charger (MAHA 777+, Hitec CG-340 or Great Planes Triton). Conversely, the disadvantages are a) you can't freely use some of these cells in other applications and b) You need a flexible charging system. However, for dedicated applications or if you like "rolling your own", this method can't be beat.
The second approach to using a variable number of AA cells in a D body is to employ an adapter of some sort. In the past, 3AA, 4AA, 6AA and 8AA battery holders have been modified to work in Mag tubes. It's doable, but it's not always easy and almost always requires some rewiring and soldering which has been a deterrent to the casual modder. More recently, Elektrolumens has provided a ready-made 3xAA to D adapter called the "3-D." This adapter, now in its second revision allows one to substitute up to 3AAs (in series only) in the space of a D cell. Thus, if one were so inclined, with the use of metal rod dummy cells, one could fit anywhere from 1AA up to 9AA in a Mag 3D body. This is one piece of equipment that broadens the appeal and accessibility of Mag modding to the masses. The advantages of using an adapter system are a) that the cells can always be removed and used elsewhere and b) the cells can be charged in cheap and simple multislot chargers such as the MAHA C401-FS. The disadvantages are in potential contact resistance and a few other use issues such as improper loading of the AAs.
f. The body: While the range of body lengths is enough to satisfy most any modding need (from 2C up to 6D), some might desire extra flexibility in cell usage. In this case, making or purchasing body extension rings in sizes from 1/2D to 2D and beyond is possible. Sometimes, extra length can be found inside the light itself in the tailcap. Some mods require a mere 1cm of length and this can typically be found by removing the stiff stock tailspring , grinding out the inside of the tailcap (to provide a circuit path) and installing a compression spring. No one need be the wiser regarding this stealthy mod.
Since this post has gotten pretty long, I'll forego talking about mods fine tuning in lieu of providing some recipes for the most popular mods.
b]Mag Mod Recipes[/b
Where there are multiple options, they are listed in order of preference.
A. Mag85BP
Body: Mag 3D
Bulb: Welch Allyn WA01185 9.6V, 3.15A, 817 spec bulb-lumens
Lens: UCL (Borofloat for extreme use)
Reflector: Fivemega OP Cammed drop-in, modified Carley RF1940 or Otokoyama PMR (out of production)
Batteries: 9 x 2100mAh AA nimh, 2200/2000mAh nimh in single string, triple stack or 2 x 4 x CR123 double string of 4 x CR123 in parallel
Battery holder: Elektrolumens 3-D V2 (currently out of stock/prodution)
Supplemental: For PR-base potted WA01185, none needed. To use bare bi-pin bulb, install the MC BP mod.
Notes: This is an overdrive mod and the brightest easy flashlight mod known. It delivers over 1,200 bulb-lumens translating to 800 out the front of the torch.
A. Mag18C
Body: Mag 4C
Bulb: Welch Allyn WA01318 (or WA01331) 9.6V, 1.93A, 534 spec bulb-lumens
Lens: UCL (Borofloat for extreme use)
Reflector: Fivemega OP Cammed drop-in, modified Carley RF1940 or Otokoyama PMR (out of production)
Batteries: 4.5 x CR123 (4 x CR123 + 1 x AA lithium)
Battery holder: PVC tube with tape ring spacers, foam or rubber hose
Supplemental: For PR-base potted WA01318, none needed. To use bare bi-pin bulb, install the MC BP mod.
Notes: This is an overdrive mod and suitable for backup storage use. It makes over 900 bulb lumens and nearly 600 out the front.
Well, Iet's get started with that. I'll be back later to post more mod recipes. Feel free to request specific ones you might be interested in.
Wilkey
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