Surefire 6p OGs keep or trade up
- Thread starter xfrog
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sween1911
Flashlight Enthusiast
How early model? Shock-isolated bezels with lexan lenses? Depending on your budget, I'd recommend converting to the new scout light bodies for using the new tailcaps and compatible wiring and switches and mounts.
They are about 10 years old. I have always trained to use a clamp and roll on off with my thumb. I don't want to re learn 10+ years and I'm not a fan of wires and pads. It is instinctive and easy since my thumb is at the tail cap anyway.
I see upgrading older lights like that as fun rather than useful. For weapon lights I'd want something made for the purpose. Boring makes them more fragile, too.
Although if you just want a 6P replacement the new ones aren't identical. Maybe drop in an LED but keep the 123 batteries?
Although if you just want a 6P replacement the new ones aren't identical. Maybe drop in an LED but keep the 123 batteries?
sween1911
Flashlight Enthusiast
Cool, I like the old-school simplicity as well. My stick has a regular 6P, stock momentary tailcap and a Nailbender LED unit in front of two CR123's. There's so many new Modlites and wodlights and bodlights I've lost track and I didn't want to lead you to a solution that's still behind the times, but if you're solid on your current mechanics, I'd say go for boring them out.
Just give some backstory... we were out for hours on a search in the woods and my old 6p was burning great but weak. Made the whole 5 hours. A few others had their 1k and 800s go out in 30 min and other at about an hour. Was 28 degrees out. They could see much further tho. In my mind a 2 beam would be ideal.
ChrisGarrett
Flashlight Enthusiast
Just get a 3-mode drop in and some bare 16650s and have your upgrade for $50 each.
Chris
This
knucklegary
Flashlight Enthusiast
^^ + This.. a 16650 size cell will not require boring and ending up with thin body issues
Yes, with a bore to 18650 the enery in that cell is considerably more,
But just measure the outside diameter at the o-ring notch and then calculate the remaining wall thickness when bored.
You will not like the ruggedness
The 16650 cell + led insert does not need any modification,
So another vote for that.
WHEN the Li-Ion cell survives the shooting,
then You might consider modding for the larger 18650 cell.
... or get an 18650 ready made body, like the ones from fivemega
But just measure the outside diameter at the o-ring notch and then calculate the remaining wall thickness when bored.
You will not like the ruggedness
The 16650 cell + led insert does not need any modification,
So another vote for that.
WHEN the Li-Ion cell survives the shooting,
then You might consider modding for the larger 18650 cell.
... or get an 18650 ready made body, like the ones from fivemega
I keep forgetting about 16650s. Weird since I have them.
