Surefire G2 not quite right

[flight777]

I just bought a Surefire G2 but am not happy with it for my purposes. On the plus side, this is a high quality light and a bargain for what you get. I like the build quality, materials, and beam smoothness which blows away any Maglite I've owned. I think it's even in the ballpark of how many lumens I need, but I find the primary beam is just too narrow and the spillbeam isn't as bright as I would like. My primary use is for all things outdoors at night. It seems that I'm moving the light around too much to see things - almost as if I was using a laser pointer. Can someone recommend a light with a wider primary beam and a relatively brighter spillbeam? I think this would be about right.

Thanks!

 

[BIGLOU]

I know this is the Incan Forum but have you tried the P60L drop in from the G2L or a KX4 head maybe you will get different results. If you do not plan to use your light for extended periods of time look into getting a Malkoff M61.

 

[flight777]

I'm looking for an incan light right now, but thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Rusty Joe]

I'm looking for an incan light right now, but thanks for the suggestion.

At Sportsman's Warehouse in 06 when I got mine, I bought with it the 120 lumen dropin. It's very floody--too floody for my purposes, infact. But it is a lot of light ready to go.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduc...& Tactical Lights-_-PriceCompListing-_-481591

 

[ampdude]

I just bought a Surefire G2 but am not happy with it for my purposes. On the plus side, this is a high quality light for and a bargain for what you get. I like the build quality, materials, and beam smoothness which blows away any Maglite I've owned. I think it's even in the ballpark of how many lumens I need, but I find the primary beam is just too narrow and the spillbeam isn't as bright as I would like. My primary use is for all things outdoors at night. It seems that I'm moving the light around too much to see things - almost as if I was using a laser pointer. Can someone recommend a light with a wider primary beam and a relatively brighter spillbeam? I think this would be about right.

Thanks!

Have you tried a G3? The beam of the P90 is a bit wider than the P60.

The P61 lamp assembly in the G2 will give you a wider primary beam and brighter spill, but battery time will decreased by two thirds to just twenty minutes of runtime. It's meant more as a tactical lamp assembly.

 

[curtispdx]

How about putting a diffuser on it?

 

[flight777]

I looked at diffusers but that kindof takes things to the other extreme with all flood and no throw.

As to the other suggestion - for some reason I doubt the G3 is going to be all that different.

I'm open to other brand/model recommendations though. Thanks.

 

[carrot]

Malkoff M61L will do it. It's expensive, but a solid investment.

 

[cm_mtb]

Since you want to stick with an incan, the E2E might work for you. It's more expensive than the G2, but it has a wider beam.

 

[Justin Case]

You could consider a FiveMega D26 bi-pin adapter/reflector and an FM1794 bulb, driven by 2xIMR16340. You might also change out the plastic G2 bezel for a metal SureFire 6P bezel with Boro window.

 

[ampdude]

I looked at diffusers but that kindof takes things to the other extreme with all flood and no throw.

As to the other suggestion - for some reason I doubt the G3 is going to be all that different.

I'm open to other brand/model recommendations though. Thanks.

I think you might be surprised, the beam characteristics of the P90 and P60 are generally quite different. The P90 usually has a wider flood type light that goes along the line of the filament while the P60 is typically more of a round spot, though all lamp assemblies vary to some degree. And you can use rechargeables with the P90, like two IMR16340's or two P17500's cutting down on the operating cost and increasing overall brightness.

You might also change out the plastic G2 bezel for a metal SureFire 6P bezel with Boro window.

I'd rather keep the stock 6P pyrex lens than stick a borofloat in there. Or get a mineral glass lens for the G2 bezel to keep everything nitrolon.

 

[Brigadier]

+1 on the P90 IMR16340 combo.

Also, if you want to go to something different, a Mag mod in 2C format is a good choice. I have a 2C bored for IMR26500 and run a WA1111 with FM's bi-focal reflector - a great hotspot with tons of throw, yet a very nice wide, bright spill. The best of both worlds.

 

[curtispdx]

I looked at diffusers but that kindof takes things to the other extreme with all flood and no throw.

As to the other suggestion - for some reason I doubt the G3 is going to be all that different.

I'm open to other brand/model recommendations though. Thanks.

I find that I use flood MUCH more than throw and a diffuser like the FM34 allows me to switch from flood to throw with a flick of my thumb. I like it but know it's not for everybody. ;)

 

[Notsure Fire]

I find that I use flood MUCH more than throw and a diffuser like the FM34 allows me to switch from flood to throw with a flick of my thumb. I like it but know it's not for everybody. ;)

Still everybody's needs are different. For example, having a proportional amount of flood and spot for bikers is a must. Caving might need more flood, etc.

 

[JNewell]

Malkoff M61L will do it. It's expensive, but a solid investment.

Or, if it is still available, the M60LF, which was last on sale for $39, IIRC.

 

[Justin Case]

I'd rather keep the stock 6P pyrex lens than stick a borofloat in there. Or get a mineral glass lens for the G2 bezel to keep everything nitrolon.

There's essentially no difference between Pyrex (as long as we aren't talking about the World Kitchens "Pyrex", which is not a borosilicate glass) and Borofloat windows. SF in fact uses Boro now for the stock window.

 

[divine]

If I were you, I'd get a brighter, Lumensfactory lamp or a P90 and some rechargeables.

It should be fairly cheap, maybe $30-40 or so and you will be rechargeable and brighter.

 

[Wolfen]

I use to spray my reflectors with a small bit of Krylon BBQ & Stove Aluminum hi temp paint after masking the bulb, would smooth out the hot spot.

 

[ampdude]

There's essentially no difference between Pyrex (as long as we aren't talking about the World Kitchens "Pyrex", which is not a borosilicate glass) and Borofloat windows. SF in fact uses Boro now for the stock window.

I thought you were advocating replacing the stock pyrex window with an aftermarket borofloat which would be pretty much pointless, my mistake! I'm only able to tell glass apart from lexan, how are you able to differentiate the difference between if the SF lens is borofloat or pyrex? Is there a special test for doing this?

 

[Justin Case]

AFAIK, you don't differentiate between the two because they are essentially the same. SF's catalog literature started calling their windows Borofloat circa 2009, so presumably bezels used that brand of material at some indeterminate point after that as SF ran out of Pyrex supplies.

I suppose if you had trace analysis capability, you could look for surface tin on the Borofloat borosilicate float glass. Or maybe an interferometer can tell the difference between float glass and non-float glass from differences in warp.