Surefire G2 Tailcap -- Supposed to be this Easy to Trigger On?????

[youreacrab]

There is so much play in the threads of my G2 tailcap that it is just as likely to go momentary-on from pressure applied to the tailcap (side or vertical pressure) than from pressure applied directly from the actual switch.

Even if i press the switch directly, the entire tailcap will move too.

It should be that it only goes momentary on when i press the actual rubber directly.

Any way to fix this so that the tailcap moves less within its threads yet still maintains its abilities as a twisty?

 

[dudemar]

This is the one drawback of most twisty tailcaps- Surefires not excluded. The best thing to do is put it in lock-out mode until you have to use it.:shrug: On my 6P I turn the "witness marks" (the semicircles on the edge of the body and tailcap) one full turn from "on" mode to lock-out, so if the $#!7 hits the fan it's fairly easy to twist one-handed.

I actually prefer this over the A2's 2-3 full twists.:sick2: My one gripe for the A2.:naughty:

 

[Justin Case]

My old G2 from when they were first introduced (~2000?) has a non-lockout tailcap and it fits more tightly than the current lockout tailcap on a brand-new G2. Even when I swap tailcaps, the old tailcap fits more tightly on the brand-new G2.

That said, just back out the tailcap a little farther so that side pressure doesn't activate the light.

I've observed side pressure activation in other SureFires besides the G2: 6P, 6Z, E2e, 3P, 8NX (pressure applied at the bezel end). It occurs for old non-LOTCs as well as current LOTCs. One difference is that the SureFire tailcaps for the lights I checked all feel pretty tight -- little or no play.

Side pressure activation occurs with the Aleph flat top tailcap/McE2S tailcap switch combination on an L4 body and E1L body. That tailcap also has a lot more play than the stock SureFire E-series tailcap. It doesn't occur with the TLS multifunction tailcap from OpticsHQ, since that tailcap is electronically switched. I also don't see side pressure activation with the Gladius, which is magnetically switched.

For some, the slight tailcap play is a feature, not a defect. You can take advantage of this behavior to use the light as a field expedient long gun weaponlight. You twist the tailcap to turn on the light. Then back off the tailcap until the light just shuts off. Side pressure should re-activate the light, which is what you want. Then hold the light against the long gun's forearm. Squeezing the light should turn it on. I wouldn't depend on this expedient method since recoil can start moving the tailcap and you may lose the ability to turn on the light with side pressure. That's why this is a field expedient.

 

[Sgt. LED]

10 seconds and the investment in an extra O-ring will really do wonders for your light.

Try 2 on the tail at the same time!

 

[youreacrab]

10 seconds and the investment in an extra O-ring will really do wonders for your light.

Try 2 on the tail at the same time!

in the gap between the flashlight and body or in the o-ring slot (don't know if it will fit there)?

 

[Sgt. LED]

There should be 2 o-ring slots.
1 is occupied by an o-ring from SF, hunt around for one that when placed into the 2nd groove matches the height of the stock one.

They are not the same size groove so a stock SF tail o-ring will not work. Take a trip to Lowes or Home Despot.

 

[Kestrel]

There should be 2 o-ring slots.
1 is occupied by an o-ring from SF, hunt around for one that when placed into the 2nd groove matches the height of the stock one.

They are not the same size groove so a stock SF tail o-ring will not work. Take a trip to Lowes or Home Despot.

I've done this with three G2's and it does work very well, as St. LED suggests. However, I have been able to use the stock SF O-rings, both on an older G2 and a few newer G2L's. My G2 right here has two same-sized grooves. It is darned difficult to find correct aftermarket o-rings though, most are too thick.

YMMV

 

[ampdude]

I purchased some from lighthound awhile back and played around with it. With the G2 and C3 it seems to work best if you put the Surefire one in the other groove and the one from Lighthound in the groove the Surefire one was in. I imagine it would work this way for all C/D/Z/P/G series lights.

Seems to have the right amount of play then, not too loose, not too tight.

 

[Sgt. LED]

I guess I got lucky putting all mine together the way I have.

I have a big bag full of spare o-rings I have saved up and collected over the years before I was even into flashlights and then I ordered a grab bag of various o-rings off a CPF'er on the Marketplace. Those were all great sizes for lights but he doesn't have them anymore.
It was a dozen for 2 bucks or something like that.

 

[Kestrel]

I was able to find some since I work in a research facility that has been around for ~65 years, it's amazing what is kicking around in some of the drawers. Never underestimate junk drawers.:thumbsup: What I did learn is that none of the commercial O-ring kits had skinny-enough O-rings, at least the ones I looked at.

I do like the stiffer feel of a double-O-ringed G2, I think it brings it more in line with the feel from the single-O-ringed aluminum SF's.

 

[youreacrab]

thanks all, and does the added o-ring fix the horizontal and vertical play or does it just make it harder to twist?

 

[Sgt. LED]

Both