Surefire LED lights??? Best choice???

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batterystation

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May 6, 2003
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428
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West Plains MO
I was told that the M2 w/KL3 was the one to have but now have so many opinions and choices that I am totally confused. Ideas please from you Surefire experts.
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I'm not a Surefire expert, but I would think that if you're mostly interested in using it with the KL3 then you could save a bunch of money and go for the C2. It's the same body, the biggest difference being the shock resistance enhanced bezel on the M2, but if you're going to seldom use that bezel... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon3.gif
 
I don't have either but I'll draw from what I have learned here.

The M2/KL3 is a terrible combination to have. You have the bulkiness of the M2, a questionably useful "tactical" grip (since the KL3 isn't sooper-bright), and you lose the shock-damped assembly of the M2.

If you get the E2e/KL1, you get the exact same brightness & runtime, with a much smaller package and much cheaper.

The only reason to get the M2 is to get the shock-dampened bezel, which you then take off to put on the KL3. Plus you pay more money for two lamp assemblies which you don't use.
 
I don't find any of the Surefire LED lights terribly attractive right now, compared with an Arc LS-x.
 
I heard from Al by email earlier too. Thanks!!! You guys are too much. It would be worth the sponsorship dollars just to be a member of this forum. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
The E2E/KL1 will be the next one I get.
 
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I agree with Shrap. The M2/KL3 gives you NO extra brightnes and NO extra runtime... It would also cost more to put together.

The E2e/KL1 will give you everything the first combo would have and be a much more "pocketable" piece.
 
I also agree - the E2e + KL1 gives you what you want at the lowest price. Approximately 4.4 hours of rock steady intensity per set of batteries, and the high Surefire quality and durability you've come to expect.
Go here if you're interested in my take on this light.
 
Not worth it - I've got a KL2 but basically never use it.
Getting an M3 is a really great idea. Also get yourself a KT4 TurboHead for it and enjoy it until the KT6 is released.

Al
 
[ QUOTE ]
Bullzeyebill said:
Will KL4 be able to run on 9 volts (E2, E2e with 123 extender)? Bill

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I am hoping that this will not be the case but I don't know one way or the other. It seems to me that the KL5 will have to work on 2 or 3 cells to be compatible with likely hosts. This will require a buck/ boost circuit which to my knowledge is less efficient than either a strictly buck or boost circuit. The KL4 on the other hand will only fit on the E series which to date is limited to one or two cells. A 5 W can't be run at full power on one cell so that narrows it down to 2 cells only. If that is the case, a buck circuit can be employed which will be very efficient, IMH(but limited)O. The KL1 also had to play both sides of the Vf due to possible 1 and 2 cell hosts. The KL4 is uniquely suited to be strictly a boost circuit. On the same line of reasoning, the KL6 being slated for the M3 and possibly the M6, for those who don't mind the combo, can be strictly a buck circuit which I have been led to understand can be very efficient. Of course I have no idea of what circuits are being used and SF hasn't bothered to ask me for my $.02.

As to what SF LED light to get, I would suggest the KL1/E1e for now. You have a great 1W luxeon in a nice small package. This package deserves to stay together and I think you will want to get an E2e with and for the KL4 once they come available. In the near future, you will have a 1 Watt 1 cell and (Edit) 5 watt 2 cell both with good run times and scaled by power. If you need longer run time with less light output, you can always throw the KL1 on the E2e.

- Don
 
[ QUOTE ]
McGizmo said:
In the near future, you will have a 1 Watt 1 cell and 2 watt 2 cell both with good run times and scaled by power.
- Don

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Uh-oh - I hope this is a typo /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Klaus
 
Oops,
Yep, I meant 5W although the 2W's are just around the corner.........

- Don
 
I was going to edit Don's post. His tpyo was more serious because he actually mistakenly wrote 20W (twenty).
And that technoloy requires fuel-cells.

Al
 
Aren't people already driving some 5Wers near 10Ws anyways? Maybe a peltier or liquid nitro would get it to 20W...
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As for the best choice SF LED, I'd go with the KL1, only because I can run it off of:

1) a McLux body w/ 1x or 2x CR123s or 2x 1/5A NiMHs
2) an E1x body w/ 1x CR123s or 2x 1/5A NiMHs
3) an E2x body w/ 2x CR123s or 1x WEyes Li-Ion 168B
4) a UBH body w/ 1x or 2x CR123s, or 2x or 3x AAs, or WEyes Li-Ion 168B
 
I too think the KL1 is the best choice becuase of size.

However, the KL2 with 3x123 is the longest running SureFire light I own that meets my minimum lighting requirements.



Actually the A2 with 3 leds runs longest, but is only 3 lumens . The KL2 puts out about 18 lumens and is my MINIMUM requirement
 
I'm with Paulr, I don't find any of the surefire led lights attractive at all. The only one I've owned is the KL1 which I sold because I didn't care for the purplish color. I like my ARC LSH-S, ARC LSH-P, and McLux better than the KL1 with either E1E or E2E model. Blaster VI and Spaceneedle II have the best output.
 
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