Surefire U2 Ultra XP-G2 mod
- Thread starter Nitroz
- Start date
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So where do you buy the emitter/board from? This looks like a pretty simple mod with lots of room to work... I've never cared for my U2 simply because of the tint and lack of flood if it had a 3,000-4,000k XPG or XPG2 is probably love it!
Pm sent!
LumensMaximus
Enlightened
Who wants to mod my new U2? :shrug:
PM sent!
m4a1usr
Enlightened
This is a pretty good starter thread for those modr's who want to tackle this job. But do your homework first. There are more links you should read here on CPF and the U-tube video is a must! I got started tonight but could not get the head apart and I had everything just as in the video. Am going to build a custom fixture for the head and a notched plate for the lower section containing the hall effect sensor. Getting the control ring off just like as in the video was pretty simple. I just cant bring myself to clamp any harder on the head than I am now with vise grips.
As you see the SF lights are not easy to crack open. I don't use vice grips on the body of the light anymore after my first mod on my U2 ended up with a crushed wall. You have got to love loctite.
m4a1usr
Enlightened
As you see the SF lights are not easy to crack open. I don't use vice grips on the body of the light anymore after my first mod on my U2 ended up with a crushed wall. You have got to love loctite.
Well I finally got mine opened today. What a PIA! Not only were you correct about the locktite I ended up having to build a custom holder for the lower section. Surefire used REAL locktite in my light. Not the typical black crud more commonly used where you can use a heat gun to soften it up. Mine has honest to gawd RED 271 PERMANENT thread locker. The kind you need to use a torch to break down. You cant soften the red stuff. Lots and lots of heat will weaken its bond but does not soften it. Luckily I did not bubble the reflector. Now I gotta decide on which LED to use? I have a bunch of XPG/XPE in all sorts of ranges. And I have some copper sinkpads on hand to boot.
I had to deal with this nasty stuff. I have never had much of a problem with any Surefire lights but as you will see by the pictures SF was way over zealous with the red loctite on this one. But, in the end, I WON!
And here we have the cleaned up threads. Next up, XP-G2 install.
And here we have the cleaned up threads. Next up, XP-G2 install.
Thanks so much for the pictures and for breathing new life into a classic, history making flashlight.
LumensMaximus
Enlightened
Hey, those photos, I've seen them before, of course.. that's my U2 . Let me say up front that I love Surefire lights, and their quality IMO, is second to none. For the record, I'm mostly a lurker if you haven't noticed, not a big poster when it comes to reviews, technical stuff, beam shots and a lot of chimming in. When I finally bought a U2 though, I have to say I was excited, another top quality torch from one of my favorite companies, 6 levels of light, clicky tail, not too much bigger in size than my 6P, man it couldn't get much better. When I fired it up and seen that horrible purplish tint, all the wind went out of my sail. I placed it in my light drawer thinking this one will be visiting Ebay soon. Then I'd seen "U2" under the modding section for an XP-G2 by Nitroz. After an email to see if he'd mod mine, Russell took my light, was super fast, did an awesome job and before I knew it, my new U2 was on the way back. This puppy is much improved, my only question is for Surefire, as to why they don't do the same? They would most likely have a large supply and demand problem. I will never sell this one now and you're contemplating the same or have any regrets for your U2 purchase, send Nitroz an email. Thanks again Russell, I'll be sending you another soon:twothumbs :twothumbs
. Let me say up front that I love Surefire lights, and their quality IMO, is second to none. For the record, I'm mostly a lurker if you haven't noticed, not a big poster when it comes to reviews, technical stuff, beam shots and a lot of chimming in. When I finally bought a U2 though, I have to say I was excited, another top quality torch from one of my favorite companies, 6 levels of light, clicky tail, not too much bigger in size than my 6P, man it couldn't get much better. When I fired it up and seen that horrible purplish tint, all the wind went out of my sail. I placed it in my light drawer thinking this one will be visiting Ebay soon. Then I'd seen "U2" under the modding section for an XP-G2 by Nitroz. After an email to see if he'd mod mine, Russell took my light, was super fast, did an awesome job and before I knew it, my new U2 was on the way back. This puppy is much improved, my only question is for Surefire, as to why they don't do the same? They would most likely have a large supply and demand problem. I will never sell this one now and you're contemplating the same or have any regrets for your U2 purchase, send Nitroz an email. Thanks again Russell, I'll be sending you another soon:twothumbs :twothumbsm4a1usr
Enlightened
If it wasn't for this thread my U2 would have sat, amongst the herd of other SF lights purchased to mod, and waited its turn. Since my current U2 now has the XPG2 mod its time to look for another to do an XML2 mod. But I might have to wait for the XPL to become more available though. :devil:
Eric242
Flashlight Enthusiast
That´s what I thought too when I saw the size of the reflector opening compared to the XP-G2 LED.
Hey, those photos, I've seen them before, of course.. that's my U2
Thanks Robert!
The Surefire U2 is an excellent design that was not executed well when it came to the LED selection. Every one of the U2s that I have modded with a Seoul LED has the horrible, weak blue tint to them. I am shocked that SF would let something like this go out the door, even the old 5 watt U2 had better color to it.
And that is why we do what we do.
Tiresius
Enlightened
Curious as to whether I can mill the risers off and use an XM-L2 or MT-G2 in there. Is there a thin layer of fiberglass that is under the black coat that directs the polarities?
m4a1usr
Enlightened
You could pull out the heat sink and mill off the raised area but its easier to use as is and turn down a copper MCPCB soldered to a short piece of .375 brass rod. The inner measurement of the recessed area where the original LED sits is .310 . There is no insulator for the LED surface mount. The 2 leads that come thru the LED heat sink do have electrical insulator pads but they are small adhesive pads and held in place with cheap what ever media. When I made my XPG2 LED MCPCB for this conversion I made my LED pad .130 OAL thickness.
I knew this was a bit too thick and the reflector would be out of focus but I also knew as well I could create a small spacer to dial in the perfect hot spot later. Turns out a larger bezel O-ring (.025 dia) allowed for perfect spacing. An XML will not have as tight throw as with the XPG but it would certainly be interesting to find out what could be. And this is a perfect tool to be experimenting with
