I have recovered the following data from Google's cache manually.
Please post any errors and corrections in a new post below.
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The format is:
Date, time, old postcount#, poster;
post data
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I will try to fix the CPF links in the next 2 weeks or until I give up in frustration. Can not do that and verify with CPF down.
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11-11-2010 08:05 AM #4 Big G.
Any chance you could outline how you did it, i would like to do something like that for my reef tank.
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11-11-2010 08:28 AM #5 Illum
something tells me you started with Aluminum u-channels
easy to heatsink, easy to mount, probably easy to waterproof, and you can use it to beat people until the morale improves....
Only drawback is the expense, optimal sized channels [1 to 1-1/2"] are about $6-7/ft in small quantities
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11-12-2010 02:11 AM #6 Barbarin
Originally Posted by Big G.
Any chance you could outline how you did it, i would like to do something like that for my reef tank.
It is a nice idea, and one day we used something similar for a cavediving video.
Well, you are going to need serious IP67 stripes, and main problem is going to be the conectors and 12 V power supply. Diving on spring water has not two much problem with wet connections, but on salt water they will get spoiled in just few minutes.
¿How much would you like to spend? ¿And how much light do you want and what for?
Regards,
javier
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11-12-2010 02:14 AM #7 Barbarin
Illum
something tells me you started with Aluminum u-channels
easy to heatsink said:
are about $6-7/ft in small quantities
Not that close. I made an effort to develope and tool a special aluminiun profile, and I extruded 500 kg (ouuuuch!) . It was designed to allow the maximun output and to stand 20 Watt/meter.
In addition I made special PC parts to attach the profiles to any surface allowing optimal cooling and PC covers to protect the lines even more.
So, no that "homemade". Anyway, I think you are paying too high the alloy profile, I suggest you to look for other supplier.
Javier
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11-12-2010 02:46 AM #8 Vesper
Great pics! I'd love to flip a switch and do that to my back yard (the wallwashing especially)...
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11-13-2010 06:53 AM #9 Ken_McE
Esto es maravilloso. ¿Puedes ver los detalles de la construcción y la forma en que el poder es así?
This is marvelous. Can you show details of the construction and how you power it?
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11-13-2010 09:26 AM #10 Barbarin
Thank you Ken,
It is powered with a 24 V DC power source, and you need at least a 35 Watt unit for the highest power ones. I also designed a power supply that can be fitted on the side of the light bar, allowing also 90-240 V input.
It is basically an alloy profile designed to have a very high structural rigidity, while keeping low weight and having a large area to get the best cooling..
It can be assembled with many kinds of LED flexible stripes, up to 20 Watt/meter.
Ill post pictures soon, let me know what would you like to know.
Regards
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11-13-2010 12:10 PM #11 Illum
Barbarin said:
Not that close. I made an effort to develope and tool a special aluminiun profile, and I extruded 500 kg (ouuuuch!) . It was designed to allow the maximun output and to stand 20 Watt/meter.
:wow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :kewlpics:
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11-14-2010 11:36 AM #12 netprince
So if I understand you correctly, you had these bars custom built for this project? Interesting, can you take a close up of the bars to show the shape?
What kind of LED's did you use? I'm not familiar with light bars...
What kind of AC-DC regulator are you using?
Would you be interested in selling extra bars?
Very nice end result. I would like to build something like this...
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11-15-2010 06:36 AM #13 Barbarin
Pic, as promised. You can see the PC protection lense, the high density double chip LED stripe and the attachment part. And of course, the profile.
Details of the PC part to fix the lamp to walls or ceiling.
Last edited by Barbarin; 11-15-2010 at 07:09 AM.
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11-15-2010 07:31 AM #14 Barbarin
netprince said:
So if I understand you correctly, you had these bars custom built for this project? Interesting, can you take a close up of the bars to show the shape?
yes, I wanted to make something serious, and there was notanything on the market to fit my requirements. Please take a look a the pictures posted.
What kind of LED's did you use? I'm not familiar with light bars...
3528 PLCC, 4200 ºK with 80 lm/watt efficiency. They are wired in 6x series, with a resistor to limit current.
What kind of AC-DC regulator are you using?
I'm using a custom made power supply, but any 24 V DC will work if is capable of supplying eonough power.
Would you be interested in selling extra bars?
Yes, I would like to sell them, but you must keep in mind that they are 2350 mm long. Too much for regular shipping. Of course we can cut them.
Very nice end result. I would like to build something like this...
Thank you very much!
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11-15-2010 07:49 PM #15 blasterman
Big G. said:
would like to do something like that for my reef tank.
You'd need a lot of these in rows to do it, and it gets expensive with that low power density.
I get 1.25" C-channel locally for $1.30 a foot , and 3x1 for $2.50, so it's not that expensive if you look around.
Barbarian's heatinsinks though are much more efficient where as C-channel has some issues if it's pointed down because heat builds up in the middle. He's got the way better material. These would make cool drop rails. At 24volts you could wire them bare and string them down from the ceiling with black aircraft wire. At 1,600 lumens each they would be plenty bright as well.
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11-16-2010 02:04 AM #16 Barbarin
blasterman said:
you'd need a lot of these in rows to do it, and it gets expensive with that low power density.
I get 1.25" C-channel locally for $1.30 a foot , and 3x1 for $2.50, so it's not that expensive if you look around.
Barbarian's heatinsinks though are much more efficient where as C-channel has some issues if it's pointed down because heat builds up in the middle. He's got the way better material. These would make cool drop rails. At 24volts you could wire them bare and string them down from the ceiling with black aircraft wire. At 1,600 lumens each they would be plenty bright as well.
Hello,
Our highest output stripes are producing 1115 lm/meter @ 13,92 Watt (Integrating sphere tested) for 4500 ºK, so the full lenght bar with 2350 mm stripe is more than 2600 lm.
One of the problems with C-Channels is that your are wasting a lot of light on internal reflections, and not taking advantage of the full 125ºC beam angle.
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11-16-2010 01:55 PM #17 Illum
Barbarin said:
One of the problems with C-Channels is that your are wasting a lot of light on internal reflections, and not taking advantage of the full 125ºC beam angle.
That is if your mounting them without optics, depending on the thickness of shims XRE optics can occupy the C channel to near flush
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11-16-2010 02:09 PM #18 blasterman
and not taking advantage of the full 125ºC beam angle.
Not much energy exists outside a 90-100 degree cone with lambertian emitters - at least worth bothering about in the case of higher powered emitters. Not as familiar with yours, so the radiation pattern might be different.
What does exist outside that cone is often not uniform in color anyways. Even if it's an issue, this is what optics are for.
While C-channel is not nearly as good a heat-sink as your material, it's shape does make a good baffle. The vast majority of people I've built lights for, and made commercial inquiries about don't want to see visible light sources. If thermal control is more important than having a baffle, then C-channel can simply be flipped up and the emitters mounted on the underside and it becomes an almost perfect heat sink in relation to it's square area.
When working with higher powered LEDs bare emitters simply aren't an option. However, when using a larger amount of lower powered LEDs such as you are doing then it's much easier to do this. Plus, the light looks rather cool as a nearly linear light source. I'd love to see yours hanging from black wire from a high ceiling because they would look like they are hovering.
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11-17-2010 02:21 AM #19 Barbarin
blasterman said:
Not much energy exists outside a 90-100 degree cone with lambertian emitters - at least worth bothering about in the case of higher powered emitters. Not as familiar with yours, so the radiation pattern might be different.
What does exist outside that cone is often not uniform in color anyways. Even if it's an issue, this is what optics are for.
While C-channel is not nearly as good a heat-sink as your material, it's shape does make a good baffle. The vast majority of people I've built lights for, and made commercial inquiries about don't want to see visible light sources. If thermal control is more important than having a baffle, then C-channel can simply be flipped up and the emitters mounted on the underside and it becomes an almost perfect heat sink in relation to it's square area.
When working with higher powered LEDs bare emitters simply aren't an option. However, when using a larger amount of lower powered LEDs such as you are doing then it's much easier to do this. Plus, the light looks rather cool as a nearly linear light source. I'd love to see yours hanging from black wire from a high ceiling because they would look like they are hovering.
Maybe there is not too much light from 90º to 125º, but IS light. If you are working on a efficiency aimed device, each photon counts.
I have been using also C-channels, and I really like them sure. In the following picture you will see a lot of them hanging from wire ropes. One of the wire ropes was made to be the + and the other the -, while the power supplies where hidden on the ceiling.
(Missing picture - LEDninja)
Regards,
Javier
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11-23-2010 12:57 PM #20 Barbarin
UPDATE.
Today I have been testing new stripes with improved PLCCs. As you can see the efficiency is very high, 92,75 lm/watt.
Lux reading at 1, 2, 3 m. 490 lx, 240 lx, 130 lx
