The most powerful Maglite mods list

[jimjones3630]

James, 2" deep reflector has no space between itself and head body and sounds like what you mentioned " D reflector that filled the void of the D bell, with a little layer of thermal paste would be better" I use an aluminum based heat cream or ceramique cream on head threads. With 90w and greater watt bulbs it does get very soft, not dripping but is only a thin layer.

Have thought of adding powered or very fine aluminum shavings to the cream. Maybe then soak or work into ceramic batting insulation??

Can you draw your idea out and paste it here? Heat sink improvements for computors smooth out the surface to improve heat transfer? Read in another thread here's a link.
http://www.svc.com/lapkit.html

:laughing::rock:



I have often wondered if instead of putting insulation around the reflector, put thermal paste intead, and sealing it buy putting a disk on the bottom of the reflector.

If the disk was threaded it could fit on the cammed 9 removed) type reflectors, and the outer edges of the disk touching the bell of the light.

then thermal paste could be squeesed in the void.

down sides would be pottentialy very messy, the grease may thermaly expand? ( doesnt in the thermo wells I use at work thinking about it now, if some air is left in.

Plus's would be wicking heat away from the lamp and reflector.

I think that ceramic insulation under the socket, and under the kiu heat sink, and between the switch and top of the cells is still a good Idea.

Still I suppose a pourpose built D reflector that filled the void of the D bell, with a little layer of thermal paste would be better.

 

[jimjones3630]

Took ceiling bounce pics today of the Chinese Mystry bulb, Osram 62138, and Philips 5761.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/180177&page=2

 

[DM51]

I think this light has great potential - the new owner is looking for suggestions...

 

[jimjones3630]

7 emolis, vbat 29, vbulb 27.5ish, 64657 briefly lit up, switch started smoking, that was impressive while couldn't get it to click off.

What are you doing to beef up mag switch? What I was doing stopped working although this is most volts run. Looking inside, the contact ring between upper and lower contacts turned black. Previously soldered the rings laying a smooth surface, but this one didn't get soldered.

 

[Raoul_Duke]

Cool, that means when I get home today I can put the finnishing touches ( namley add the 64567) to the ready and waiting host

Its a 6d mag with one 34 mm & one 74mm extentions, and 7 emoli and light this bad boy up. :devil:

I have the 10A switches that mac used for his torch, and the 64655 20 cell elephant that he made, and the 21 cell 64655 luxluthor made, ( thanks to Lux :thumbsup: )

I had planned to wait and use the JM-SST to control the peak voltage voltage but if the 64657 can take the overdrive, ( I had hope it would as it has 200 -300 hours, depending on where you look, compared to the slighly brighter, but shorter life 50 hours, 64655)

Had planned to do this for ages, but only just got the lamps last week, ( thanks to Jim :thumbsup: )

Its going to be big and heavy, but bright. Just the way I like them.

Do you think the reflectors will hold up. Should I go with the standard head and 2" FM med stipple, or just pop it in the FM3V-2, and hope for the best :sick2: ?

 

[LuxLuthor]

Do you think the reflectors will hold up. Should I go with the standard head and 2" FM med stipple, or just pop it in the FM3V-2, and hope for the best :sick2: ?

PM sent on what I did with the Hyperblaster's reflector setup.

 

[petrev]

7 emolis, vbat 29, vbulb 27.5ish, 64657 briefly lit up, switch started smoking, that was impressive while couldn't get it to click off.

What are you doing to beef up mag switch? What I was doing stopped working although this is most volts run. Looking inside, the contact ring between upper and lower contacts turned black. Previously soldered the rings laying a smooth surface, but this one didn't get soldered.

Hi Jim

My simple FET switch works well so far - waiting for the JM-SST to come along for more fun . . .

Cheers Pete

 

[jimjones3630]

Regarding reflectors, think 99.999% pure AL with an overcoat of SiO2 may have more heat tolerance. watching this thread waiting for the guy to mention who is doing the reflector coating
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/180982

make you own thermal epoxy thread
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/181336

Cool, that means when I get home today I can put the finnishing touches ( namley add the 64567) to the ready and waiting host

Its a 6d mag with one 34 mm & one 74mm extentions, and 7 emoli and light this bad boy up. :devil:

I have the 10a switches that mac used for his torch, and the 64655 20 cell elephant that he made, and the 21 cell 64655 luxluthor made, ( thanks to Lux :thumbsup: )

I had planned to wait and use the JM-SST to control the peak voltage voltage but if the 64657 can take the overdrive, ( I had hope it would as it has 200 -300 hours, depending on where you look, compared to the slighly brighter, but shorter life 50 hours, 64655)

Had planned to do this for ages, but only just got the lamps last week, ( thanks to Jim :thumbsup: )

Its going to be big and heavy, but bright. Just the way I like them.

Do you think the reflectors will hold up. Should I go with the standard head and 2" FM med stipple, or just pop it in the FM3V-2, and hope for the best :sick2: ?

 

[jimjones3630]

Pete, that FET looks good, tried surface mount soldering and can't get the tech down so I'm waiting for the JM-SST as well.
jim

Hi Jim

My simple FET switch works well so far - waiting for the JM-SST to come along for more fun . . .

Cheers Pete

 

[jimjones3630]

Lux, why don't you post here what you did for that reflector setup?

PM sent on what I did with the Hyperblaster's reflector setup.

 

[petrev]

Pete, that FET looks good, tried surface mount soldering and can't get the tech down so I'm waiting for the JM-SST as well.
jim

Hi Jim

Posted a How To Guide showing the simple Low-Tech method.

It's not really proper surface mount soldering as these are the biggest parts I could find (almost).

JimmyM and others do the impossible small stuff - I can't - this is really rather big.

Can't wait for the JM-SST and SSR to come onstream as they are the real deal.

Cheers
Pete

 

[jimjones3630]

I'd like to try one of the JM-SST and SSR as well, probable able to build one of your sooner.

jim

Hi Jim

Posted a How To Guide showing the simple Low-Tech method.

It's not really proper surface mount soldering as these are the biggest parts I could find (almost).

JimmyM and others do the impossible small stuff - I can't - this is really rather big.

Can't wait for the JM-SST and SSR to come onstream as they are the real deal.

Cheers
Pete

 

[JimmyM]

This won't soft-start the bulb though. It is a super low resistance switch. Damn sturdy by the look of it. But since it switches on really fast AND has low resistance, it will give the bulb a larger current spike than standard modded mag switch. It's a great idea for high current bulbs that aren't going to instaflash. Like the 64623 on 13 cells. Or the 64458 on 16-17 cells.

Hi Jim

Posted a How To Guide showing the simple Low-Tech method.

It's not really proper surface mount soldering as these are the biggest parts I could find (almost).

JimmyM and others do the impossible small stuff - I can't - this is really rather big.

Can't wait for the JM-SST and SSR to come onstream as they are the real deal.

Cheers
Pete

 

[jimjones3630]

Picked up older 6Cm@g without C in the serial number, A123 batteries wrapped in kapton tape slide in. 5th cell stick out requiring use of extender, makes for long light but so light weight. 90w 458 looks better pushed closer to 20v so swapped 623 100w bulb which is pictured on the right side and in same pic on left a microfire k3500 HID. Testing the Microfire on a passaround and will post a review in that thread. Thought some here might like to see 623 comparison.

 

[petrev]

Picked up older 6Cm@g without C in the serial number, A123 batteries wrapped in kapton tape slide in. 5th cell stick out requiring use of extender . . .

Hi Jim

Clarification:
What "C" extender are you using ?

Haven't found any with sufficient Inner-Girth so far ! ! !

Cheers
Pete

 

[adamlau]

Mac has some really nice lights.

 

[petrev]

Mac has some really nice lights.

Hi Adam

He does indeed . . .

Clarification above - needing C extension with sufficient Inner-Girth for A123 (+eMoli if poss ?)

Haven't found them yet . . .

Cheers
Pete

 

[jimjones3630]

Hi Pete,

I use the "C" extenders commonly regarded as unable to fit. Even the maker denies they will fit. In fact, they usually don't fit when I get them.

Peaked your interest? I like to share my modding "secrets" then the naysayers, not you Pete, shake their heads. So it is kind of fun for me. It is like the aspherical lens for incans, "oh no that can't work."

AW's c cell extender will stretch. In fact, some have large enough ID an A123 wrapped in kapton tape will slip straight in. When not, I spray on alot of silicone, push some more then wait for it the stretch.

I've done the same with Emoli's and C extender in m@g4C to get 3 Emolis to fit. Makes a nice compact 100w mod.

Cheers,
jim

Hi Jim

Clarification:
What "C" extender are you using ?

Haven't found any with sufficient Inner-Girth so far ! ! !

Cheers
Pete

 

[petrev]

Thanks Jim

My AW extenders may just fit A123s with the Kapton tape but are way too small for my eMoli even with no tape !

Ah well - Luck of the draw . . .

Cheers
Pete

 

[jimjones3630]

Pete,

Why don't you try to stretch them? The worst thing that can happen is the extender gets stuck and need to grip it in a vice leaving some marks. Aluminum brushes out easy.

jim

Thanks Jim

My AW extenders may just fit A123s with the Kapton tape but are way too small for my eMoli even with no tape !

Ah well - Luck of the draw . . .

Cheers
Pete