Hey Brian, take a T8 torx and grind the shaft down until it will fit in the hole, you will want to start with as small of a driver as you can (shaft) as it took me about an hour to grind my last one down with my dremel.. be careful not to slip and grind off the teeth! lol If you need further assistance shoot me a pm..
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Sold/Expired The Ultimate Tailcap Switch, the FETtie, for Z41 and variants.
- Thread starter badtziscool
- Start date
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Hey Brian, take a T8 torx and grind the shaft down until it will fit in the hole, you will want to start with as small of a driver as you can (shaft) as it took me about an hour to grind my last one down with my dremel.. be careful not to slip and grind off the teeth! lol If you need further assistance shoot me a pm..
Thanks! I was just looking for an update =-) Cant wait til they are available!!
VanIsleDSM
Enlightened
Hi mvyrmnd,
The FETtie is not a direct swap for the McClicky. The FETtie is a larger diameter. The FETtie will work in almost any host that has 7/8" 20TPI threads or 22mm x 1.25P threads in the tailcap.
The McClicky is smaller and uses an adapter to fit 7/8" 20TPI threads or 22mm x 1.25P threads (which are nearly the same size).
The FETtie is not a direct swap for the McClicky. The FETtie is a larger diameter. The FETtie will work in almost any host that has 7/8" 20TPI threads or 22mm x 1.25P threads in the tailcap.
The McClicky is smaller and uses an adapter to fit 7/8" 20TPI threads or 22mm x 1.25P threads (which are nearly the same size).
Thanks for the clarification.
From my practical experience, the FETie drops/screws into SF Z41 tailcaps and the Oveready Diamondback Aluminum tailcaps without issue. For some reason, the switch action is harder when installed in the DB, but the fit is pretty much factory-standard.
I can't say how pleased I am with these. The action is smooth, positive and the output bump on DD lights V the stock Z41 or McClicky switch is visible and measurable. Although folks are asking for a forward clicky, I find the reverse action ideal for multimode pills. Click and release to activate, then tap to switch modes at will without having to go dark.
Wilkey
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gt40
Enlightened
received it!
Bugger. I was kinda hoping it'd fit my Tri-EDC, which uses a McClicky...
Paul_in_Maryland
Flashlight Enthusiast
Impressive. Until now, when I thought Canada + high-tech, only one company came to mind: Matrox (the Quebec company that makes sophisticated graphics cards).
VanIsleDSM
Enlightened
The graphics company ATi is from Canada Paul, much more well known than Matrox.
RIM and the blackberry line are Canadain, though not doing so well lately.
Canada also builds most all the robotics for NASA. Including the main piece, the "Canadarm" -what a stupid name.
Google the "Avro Arrow" A Canadian jet fighter in the 50's that was to trump all others at the time, the very first "fly by wire" aircraft. It was shut down because NASA had to beat Russia to the moon, Russia was ahead at the time. Canadian engineers and scientists from the Avro Arrow project, along with Americans at NASA, and post war Germans sent America to the moon.
Edit: Wanted to add a couple more fun facts about the Arrow. The MkII that used two of the Canadian built Iroquois engines (the most powerful jet engine ever made at the time, with 20,000lbs of dry thrust, and 26,000lbs with afterburner) would have given the Arrow more thrust than an F-14 Tomcat, it would have been able to fly as high as a U-2 spy plane, at over mach 2, and carry more payload than a the famous B-52 or Lancaster Bomber (also made by Avro). The MKI arrow with much lower power Pratt & Whitney 12,500lb thrust engines broke Mach 2, the MKII would have easily attained Mach 2.5 with the Iroquois engines, and the high speed MKIII version would have been able to sustain Mach 3 @ 95,000 feet, This was all ~1958
RIM and the blackberry line are Canadain, though not doing so well lately.
Canada also builds most all the robotics for NASA. Including the main piece, the "Canadarm" -what a stupid name.
Google the "Avro Arrow" A Canadian jet fighter in the 50's that was to trump all others at the time, the very first "fly by wire" aircraft. It was shut down because NASA had to beat Russia to the moon, Russia was ahead at the time. Canadian engineers and scientists from the Avro Arrow project, along with Americans at NASA, and post war Germans sent America to the moon.
Edit: Wanted to add a couple more fun facts about the Arrow. The MkII that used two of the Canadian built Iroquois engines (the most powerful jet engine ever made at the time, with 20,000lbs of dry thrust, and 26,000lbs with afterburner) would have given the Arrow more thrust than an F-14 Tomcat, it would have been able to fly as high as a U-2 spy plane, at over mach 2, and carry more payload than a the famous B-52 or Lancaster Bomber (also made by Avro). The MKI arrow with much lower power Pratt & Whitney 12,500lb thrust engines broke Mach 2, the MKII would have easily attained Mach 2.5 with the Iroquois engines, and the high speed MKIII version would have been able to sustain Mach 3 @ 95,000 feet, This was all ~1958
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VanIsleDSM
Enlightened
Happy to say that last night I clicked on the very first FETtie in a forward fashion!
It will be another 2 weeks or so until I've completed a production run of them, but everything is looking good.
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- Oct 13, 2006
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VanIsleDSM.
I've notified mods/admins about me somehow taking ownership of this thread. Hopefully they'll be able fix the issue.
On another note, I can't wait for the fwd clicky version of your switch.
I've notified mods/admins about me somehow taking ownership of this thread. Hopefully they'll be able fix the issue.
On another note, I can't wait for the fwd clicky version of your switch.
Mattaus
Flashlight Enthusiast
I am looking at possibly purchasing the forward version of this switch and had a question regarding dimensions. I notice in post #22 that you mention that "The length of the switch, not including the spring, is 8mm." Does this include the clicking mechanism, or is this just the threaded brass body? I'm assuming the diameter of the switch is 22mm max given the threads. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Basically I need to know the total axial length of the switch (switch boot included though I can figure that out for myself) for a light I am making and am looking for something shorter than a McClicky. The FETtie looks shorter but would like confirmation before I drop $50+ on one
Any information would be highly appreciated.
Thanks,
- Matt
Basically I need to know the total axial length of the switch (switch boot included though I can figure that out for myself) for a light I am making and am looking for something shorter than a McClicky. The FETtie looks shorter but would like confirmation before I drop $50+ on one
Any information would be highly appreciated.
Thanks,
- Matt
i am also waiting for your forward version. i am in with 1 if they become available...
Mike Docherty
Newly Enlightened
Bump for update on the forward clicky!
Hey Jesse,
Tried to PM you but your box is full again. Here's what I wrote:
"Hey Jesse,
I think I'm going to need that replacement FETie you said you'd send and I'm probably going to have to buy another replacement unit. I've had a second failure. The circuit board with the spring on it popped right out of my tailcap as I unscrewed it to replace the battery. I will send you a photo next week as I'm traveling. There was no tearing or fracturing. It just came off. Didn't you say you had some parts that had some kind of weakness?"
Wilkey
Tried to PM you but your box is full again. Here's what I wrote:
"Hey Jesse,
I think I'm going to need that replacement FETie you said you'd send and I'm probably going to have to buy another replacement unit. I've had a second failure. The circuit board with the spring on it popped right out of my tailcap as I unscrewed it to replace the battery. I will send you a photo next week as I'm traveling. There was no tearing or fracturing. It just came off. Didn't you say you had some parts that had some kind of weakness?"
Wilkey
Jesse,
I've had another FETie fail. This one is physically intact but has just stopped working. Clicks fine. New watch battery installed. No workie. I have three FETies down, Jesse. Two that physically fell apart and one that just up and stopped working. I need your help getting this sorted out. It is my primary EDC (with one of your 5.6A copper drop-ins in it) that is now up on blocks.
Wilkey
I've had another FETie fail. This one is physically intact but has just stopped working. Clicks fine. New watch battery installed. No workie. I have three FETies down, Jesse. Two that physically fell apart and one that just up and stopped working. I need your help getting this sorted out. It is my primary EDC (with one of your 5.6A copper drop-ins in it) that is now up on blocks.
Wilkey
