scudinc
Enlightened
Can the optic be swapped for a reflector? That would make this an outright Q3 killer.
tiny 1 watt - Vortex KC1 - any good?
- Thread starter nonbox
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Paul_in_Maryland
Flashlight Enthusiast
Scroll down the Vortex home page (http://www.vortexvision.us/) and you'll find this:
KC1 IMPROVEMENTS MOVED TO 2006!
KC1
Improvements being made to use CR123A Battery, replacing the CR2 have been moved to first quarter of 2006.
We have taken all of your suggestions and are going to modify the very popular KC1 keychain light to use the more available CR123A battery (larger capacity), this will improve the run time to 2 hours 30 minutes.
We are working out a couple of small complications to better improve the KC1.
KC1 IMPROVEMENTS MOVED TO 2006!
KC1
Improvements being made to use CR123A Battery, replacing the CR2 have been moved to first quarter of 2006.
We have taken all of your suggestions and are going to modify the very popular KC1 keychain light to use the more available CR123A battery (larger capacity), this will improve the run time to 2 hours 30 minutes.
We are working out a couple of small complications to better improve the KC1.
Paul_in_Maryland
Flashlight Enthusiast
I don't know what Vortex is thinking. The competition won't exactly stand still while they perfect their little jewel.
You forgot the Orb RAW - small AND rechargeable. What part of the market the Jil doesn't take at the low end... the Raw can capture at the high. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I wish I'd made the cut for the U-bins. Ah well - at least there's always modded Orbs.
I wish I'd made the cut for the U-bins. Ah well - at least there's always modded Orbs.
meeshu
Enlightened
[ QUOTE ]
. . .
We are working out a couple of small complications to better improve the KC1.
[/ QUOTE ]
I hope Vortex mean that!
I bought four KC1's awhile ago, two KC1s did not work out of the box!
The problem with the two failed lights was due to insufficient contact being made between the body and two small 1 millimeter diameter metal plungers within the bezel (head). The insufficient contact was actually caused by the body interior (which made contact with the plungers) having been "ground down" by slightly raised screw heads contained within the bezel.
The raised screw heads prevented the body from making contact with the plungers, and they also cut into the body interior whenever the bezel was screwed down in an attempt to switch the light on. When I first opened the lights, I found metal shavings within the bezel which were the result of the screw heads cutting into the body!
These screws within the bezel were not sufficiently tightened down. However, on tightening them down a bit, they caused the plastic plunger support parts to crack open beside the screws!
With the screws either removed or tightened down, it was found that the lights still did not work as the body interior had been "ground down" by the screw heads and the body could no longer push the plungers down far enough to activate the light!
I don't know how long the other two working lights will continue to work. I suspect that the constant abrasion, and scouring that is caused by the two small plungers rubbing against the body when operating the light will eventually wear the body interior down. This will eventually lead to insufficient pressure being applied to the plungers due to lack of interior body material, and consequently the lights will fail to work!
Bad design, and bad quality control!
After I contacted the dealer who supplied the faulty lights, my understanding is that a substantial number of the last batch of KC1s had similar problems and had to be returned to the manufacturer.
Overall, I am not happy with these lights!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/Christo_pull_hair.gif
. . .
We are working out a couple of small complications to better improve the KC1.
[/ QUOTE ]
I hope Vortex mean that!
I bought four KC1's awhile ago, two KC1s did not work out of the box!
The problem with the two failed lights was due to insufficient contact being made between the body and two small 1 millimeter diameter metal plungers within the bezel (head). The insufficient contact was actually caused by the body interior (which made contact with the plungers) having been "ground down" by slightly raised screw heads contained within the bezel.
The raised screw heads prevented the body from making contact with the plungers, and they also cut into the body interior whenever the bezel was screwed down in an attempt to switch the light on. When I first opened the lights, I found metal shavings within the bezel which were the result of the screw heads cutting into the body!
These screws within the bezel were not sufficiently tightened down. However, on tightening them down a bit, they caused the plastic plunger support parts to crack open beside the screws!
With the screws either removed or tightened down, it was found that the lights still did not work as the body interior had been "ground down" by the screw heads and the body could no longer push the plungers down far enough to activate the light!
I don't know how long the other two working lights will continue to work. I suspect that the constant abrasion, and scouring that is caused by the two small plungers rubbing against the body when operating the light will eventually wear the body interior down. This will eventually lead to insufficient pressure being applied to the plungers due to lack of interior body material, and consequently the lights will fail to work!
Bad design, and bad quality control!
After I contacted the dealer who supplied the faulty lights, my understanding is that a substantial number of the last batch of KC1s had similar problems and had to be returned to the manufacturer.
Overall, I am not happy with these lights!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/Christo_pull_hair.gif
