Traverse knurling titanium? Yup!

Mirage_Man

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After seeing TB's recent knurled ti parts and talking with him I decided to give it try too. Wouldn't you know it the stars aligned for me as well :). I used the cheapo bump knurling tool that came with my import BXA quick change tool post set. The wheels are obviously not the greatest so I imagine with a higher quality tool and sharp wheels the patter will be even sharper.

Thanks TB for never giving up on this :thumbsup:.

DSC_7383_sm.jpg


DSC_7382_sm.jpg


Click these thumbs for massive hi-rez versions of the above.

 
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Please take the following with the greatest respect.
Although it is impossible to see exactly from the picture, it looks like you have no depth, a nice diamond pattern, but not a true knurl. A true knurl must cut into or displace metal depending on the type of tool being used.

Your picture above clearly shows that both knurls are tracking correctly.
The next stage would have been to tighten up the cross slide and traverse a second or third time untill the cut or displaced metal clearly shows the diamond shape peaks and valleys.

Not is all lost. Your tracking is perfect and this is one of the most difficult things to get right. Keep at it ........
 
Brian, I like the result ... just enough texture to improve the grip without the sharp diamonds from a full depth knurl. And the beautiful turned finish on the barrel still shows through. :thumbsup:
 
Please take the following with the greatest respect.
Although it is impossible to see exactly from the picture, it looks like you have no depth, a nice diamond pattern, but not a true knurl. A true knurl must cut into or displace metal depending on the type of tool being used.

Your picture above clearly shows that both knurls are tracking correctly.
The next stage would have been to tighten up the cross slide and traverse a second or third time untill the cut or displaced metal clearly shows the diamond shape peaks and valleys.

Not is all lost. Your tracking is perfect and this is one of the most difficult things to get right. Keep at it ........

Actually his Knurls were perfect he just decided not to go to 100% impression. Alot of people do this so that they aren't as aggressive. Nice work
 
Please take the following with the greatest respect.
Although it is impossible to see exactly from the picture, it looks like you have no depth, a nice diamond pattern, but not a true knurl. A true knurl must cut into or displace metal depending on the type of tool being used.

Your picture above clearly shows that both knurls are tracking correctly.
The next stage would have been to tighten up the cross slide and traverse a second or third time untill the cut or displaced metal clearly shows the diamond shape peaks and valleys.

Not is all lost. Your tracking is perfect and this is one of the most difficult things to get right. Keep at it ........

No offense at all taken. I know that a true knurl would have displaced the material and created peaks. In fact I was able to do that but I backed off the cross slide so as to produce more of a pattern effect that I believe is much more pleasing to the eye in ti (hey I'm a poet and didn't know it :D). Anyway, double tracking has always been the problem when I've attempted traverse knurling in the past. I would always end up in a fit of disgust due to double tracking. However as you stated I got it perfect this time :). I think after reading a few articles online about knurling that the key is starting with the right diameter in relation to the wheels. Something about a multiple of the pitch is key.
 
I think after reading a few articles online about knurling that the key is starting with the right diameter in relation to the wheels. Something about a multiple of the pitch is key.

Double tracking has always been a huge problem. If a light knurl is required then attention must be paid to the 'right diameter'.
If a full knurl is required, the diameter is not so critical as the extreme high pressure applied should ( ? ) help the knurls align.

Without doubt one of the hardest lathe operations to get right on a consistent basis, particularly in Ti.
 
Brian,

Nice work, although I agree with Anglepoise--they really aren't knurls, just diamond patterns. :)

You need a very strong lathe, i.e., lots of horsepower, really rigid set-up and really good knurlers to cut Ti, but it can be done--I've seen some pieces done in a CNC shop and they really were fully formed knurls. I believe that the shop used a scissor-style knurling tool.

I've only been able to get reasonably fully formed knurls with CP Ti, which is softer than Grade 5, aka 6AL/4V, and they were done with a cut knurler:

CPTI-123Head-1.jpg
 
Brian,

Nice work, although I agree with Anglepoise--they really aren't knurls, just diamond patterns. :)

Like I said I know what I posted pics of is not a true knurl. I did manage to get a very good raised knurl that I turned off the right side of the piece. It wasn't to a peak but I suspect that if I really cranked on the cross slide it would have albeit it probably would have looked like *** without high pressure flood coolant to flush it out.
 
Nice work. I thought for sure you were going to respond that day with cussing! :laughing:

Now try feeding another 20 thou! We all want to see. :nana:

Even if it's not considered a true knurl, it still looks great even if it's not so much functional. I've always loved this type of flat knurling on the Arc LS & HDS lights which I still carry.
 
I've seen some pieces done in a CNC shop and they really were fully formed knurls.
Some NC shops use a V tool, much like a 60° threading tool, and run helix in one direction. Carriage is reversed and the helix is run toward the tailstock. When the feed & rpm are just right, it's the easiest way to make perfect knurls.
 
Some NC shops use a V tool, much like a 60° threading tool, and run helix in one direction. Carriage is reversed and the helix is run toward the tailstock. When the feed & rpm are just right, it's the easiest way to make perfect knurls.

I liked that technique a lot, so I thought I'd give it a try on my manual lathe. Unfortunately, the greatest pitch that I could cut was 8mm, which doesn't come close to cutting 45-degree diamonds. Oh, to have a CNC lathe. :D
 

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