Triple Seoul P7

[DAVEVO]

Hi there.

I wasn't sure which section to post this in but my request is about the title subject.

I know very little about LED. HID lighting is my thing.

I was reading this thread about the Triple Seoul P7.

http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=228206

I would like to install this set up as Auxiliary lighting to my headlights in the light that is circled in green. I understand that it would require 13-14v to run.

This would only be activated on high beams, so I thought it could work if I wired it up via a relay straight from the car battery while the engine was running giving me 14.5v.

Those lights that I have shown are fog lights which I never use anyway and would make a nice upgrade with the LED's.

I guess it's all about modding and doing something different so that's why I'm here.

If there is any reason I can't do this with the voltage ect or anything else I should know, some advice would be very welcome.

Thanks for reading.

Dave.

 

[Kestrel]

Please resize your pic - the maximum size for CPF is 800x800 pixels.

Moving to /Automotive/ ...

 

[DAVEVO]

Guess I will have to do a crash course on all things LED?

Try and work it out for myself.

 

[KentS]

As for driver I suppose something like this would do it if you want your p7s in series. If you use I-bin forward voltage is between 3.25 and 3.5V so you will not have to worry about enough drop-out voltage.
http://www.led-tech.de/en/LED-Contr...wer-Supply--2800mA,-30V--LT-1290_118_119.html

What I would worry most about is heatsinking. You need to lead the heat out from that lamp-assemply so that it can be cooled away e.g. by moving air around the car or by some fins in the enigne room. Heatpipes from an old computer-CPU might be the way to go. I have been playing with the idea of extra LED light on my car but I would go for something like the host I used for my old bike lights
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=222622
and mount them under the bumper for maximum cooling.

 

[shhh]

Ever thought about the heat from the headlight housing?
Running a large aluminium slug ran thru the back of the housing.
Then run some hose or something to send some cold air to the slug.

This is something I Am working on for my moms mustang.
If. I remember right the driver from the link max out at 20v.
My goal was to put the biggest chunk of metal I can in there for a sink.
Then vaccum form a sheet of acrylic over it and glass it to the housing.

 

[DAVEVO]

Ever thought about the heat from the headlight housing?
Running a large aluminium slug ran thru the back of the housing.
Then run some hose or something to send some cold air to the slug.

This is something I Am working on for my moms mustang.
If. I remember right the driver from the link max out at 20v.
My goal was to put the biggest chunk of metal I can in there for a sink.
Then vaccum form a sheet of acrylic over it and glass it to the housing.

The lights would not be on for more than 30secs at a time give or take a bit..

You say the driver in the link max out at 20v, do you mean in my link?

Sorry for the noob questions I know very little about LED.

Am I right in thinking then that the "driver" controls the current to the 3 LED's in my original post?

It would also need 13-14v min to work properly.. Is there any reason I couldn't use the 14.5v from my battery straight to the driver where the 418650 batteries are normally used?

I can work out everything else to do it's the tech side of it that I am new to.

Thanks.

 

[jason 77]

The lights would not be on for more than 30secs at a time give or take a bit..

You still need some sort of heat sink in there if you want the LEDs to last, although if they will indeed only be on for a max of 30 sec or less at a time you might be able to get away with a smaller heatsink that has some thermal connection to outside the housing. Just don't forget that if you are on a backroad somewhere and decide you need your brights for more illumination.

Is there any reason I couldn't use the 14.5v from my battery straight to the driver where the 418650 batteries are normally used?

Yes there is a reason you shouldn't hook the LEDs up directly to the 14.5v coming from your alternator, that voltage is not a nice clean steady DC voltage like those batteries provide. The 14.5v is going to vary quite a bit because of all the other things connected to your cars electrical system. You really need to give those LEDs a constant current and protect them from voltage spikes in order for them to last.

 

[shhh]

Mybad Der Wichtel's drivers was what i was thinking about.

Your link was to his three p7 mag build. I was on my droid phone
and thought u were talking about his stuff" as in driver" lol

I dont know how much different it will be with 12 volts as to the 13v-14v min.
Throw a sharp 12volt regulator on it before the driver to only let it see 12v.
I dont know how much diff it would be as i am waiting for them to come in the mail.

 

[DAVEVO]

Yes there is a reason you shouldn't hook the LEDs up directly to the 14.5v coming from your alternator, that voltage is not a nice clean steady DC voltage like those batteries provide. The 14.5v is going to vary quite a bit because of all the other things connected to your cars electrical system. You really need to give those LEDs a constant current and protect them from voltage spikes in order for them to last.

Thanks jason.

So I need clean voltage then between my cars 14.5v and the driver?

Some kind of power module to make it safe.

Dirty in.. clean and safe out.

Sorry for the noob questions.

:thumbsup: