trouble with LiteFlux LF3XT or do i not get true the programming?

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albino

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jun 23, 2006
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dear forum,

i do have a LF3XT for the last 10 days, and it was delivered at the same day with the NiteCore Smart PD GD.

both had the same brightness, only different tints.

after a litle gaming true the options and the programming, the LF3XT is not half as bright as the nitecore :shrug:

- is someting wrong with the light ?
- is it my programing skills that are not sufficient :ohgeez:?

i dont want to send it back bevor i figured it out, if the light is ok or not!


how can i figure that out?

any suggestions :candle:
 
Sounds to me like you've bolloxed up the programming You need to get teh light to true max output.. I don't know what mode you have it in, but you can immediately get your LF3XT to full brightness by turning it on and then either holding the button down to get max (if it's in CUI), or by click holding (if it's in FUI). Check how full brightness compares to your nitecore then.
 
gadgetnerd said:
Sounds to me like you've bolloxed up the programming You need to get teh light to true max output.. I don't know what mode you have it in, but you can immediately get your LF3XT to full brightness by turning it on and then either holding the button down to get max (if it's in CUI), or by click holding (if it's in FUI). Check how full brightness compares to your nitecore then.
Click to expand...

That's not quite correct. Turn on the light, with a quck click and release. If you are in the CUI (the default mode of a new light), it should turn on in the user defined mode. Now to get to the CUI's Max mode: Click, then quickly release, and quickly Press and HOLD. The light will go to full MAX, then release and it will stay in Max, until you issue another command to switch it to another mode, or you turn off and then on the light, where it will go back to the default user defined light level.

If you have some how gotten into the FUI (you would have had to do 5 consecutive clicks followed by a PRESS HOLD), you will know tha if one of the default levels is a flashing beacon. Double click to switch modes, and if you don't see a flashing beacon you are probably still in the CUI. If you happen to be in the FUI, do a PRESS (don't release) and HOLD the button down continuously. As long as you hold it you should see maximum brightness. This is a maximum momentary, which means it only stays in max as long as you keep the button pressed. Release the button and it goes back to the mode you were in before.

One other thing. It is pretty easy to have accidentally toggled on your momentary, which could also be confusing you when trying to issue commands. You know you are in momentary if with the light off, a firm press and hold turns on the light but then releasing turns off the light. A single quick click and then a release will turn the light on continuously. Then do 4 clicks in fairly rapid succession and you can toggle off the momentary.

If you are still having problems PM me. I am sure I can help you. We may have to connect by phone and I can walk you through it.
 
Last edited:
gadgetnerd said:
you can immediately get your LF3XT to full brightness by turning it on and then either holding the button down to get max (if it's in CUI), or by click holding (if it's in FUI). Check how full brightness compares to your nitecore then.
Click to expand...

did not solve the problem

thanks anyway!

Flying Turtle said:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=210267

Lastly, after 10 days of playing maybe the battery needs to be changed before you make a valid comparison. Good luck. It's a great light.

Geoff
Click to expand...

thanks, i tryed several things, but nothing helped

battery changed - problem not solved (i do have more than 10 new varta professionals 123's arround)

BabyDoc said:
If you are still having problems PM me. I am sure I can help you. We may have to connect by phone and I can walk you through it.
Click to expand...

thanks babyDoc,

i sent a pm, and with skype we could do a video-call

that would be the best !

thanks.
 
You can figure out where you are by detirmining if you are in CUI -- After you turn on light do a double quick click and light should go into .2% low. If you are in FUI the double click will advance you to next mode.

If C+PH in CUI or PH(press & hold) inFUI doesn't result in a brighter level , your battery is probably low.
 
albino said:
battery changed - problem not solved (i do have more than 10 new varta professionals 123's arround)
Click to expand...
If possible, try rechargeable RCR123A (fully-charged RCR123A with voltage approaching 4.20V is better), and compare the brightness under rechargeable RCR123A with the brightness under primary Varta 123 battery.
 
h2oflyer said:
If C+PH in CUI or PH(press & hold) inFUI doesn't result in a brighter level , your battery is probably low.
Click to expand...

i'm in CUI now

juplin said:
If possible, try rechargeable RCR123A (fully-charged RCR123A with voltage approaching 4.20V is better), and compare the brightness under rechargeable RCR123A with the brightness under primary Varta 123 battery.
Click to expand...

i do not have rcr123a's
 
Get into the FUI by doing a 5C+PH. Then do 5C and you will get a voltage readout of the battery. That should settle the battery issue.
It is possible that all the primaries you have are bad. I've seen that with some cheaper batteries.
(Read the instruction manual and it will tell you how to interpret the battery report.)
 
Last edited:
BabyDoc said:
Get into the FUI by doing a 5C+PH. Then do 5C and you will get a voltage readout of the battery. That should settle the battery issue.
It is possible that all the primaries you have are bad. I've seen that with some cheaper batteries.
(Read the instruction manual and it will tell you how to interpret the battery report.)
Click to expand...

is't that 5c+ph in cui = voltage report and into fui the brightnessreport

5c in fui = 3 flash - 1 flash
5c in cui = 3 flash - 2 flash


juplin said:
Then, try another test by using 1.5V primary battery Panasonic R1NT (UM-5NT) which should be available at same outlets selling 1.5V AA or AAA primary batteries.
In order to load 1.5V primary battery Panasonic R1NT (UM-5NT) into LF3XT, please refer to the last photo of the following post:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2609596&postcount=96
Your LF3XT powered by 1.5V battery will be lighted, if this LF3XT is normal.
Click to expand...

here is night, and i do not have the possibility to get a r1nt , a aaa-bat. dos not fit :poke:
 
Last edited:
I think there may still be a little confusion. In either CUI or FUI do only 5C to get a battery report. Doing 5C+ ph changes the light from CUI to FUI or FUI to CUI.

Geoff
 
sorry, i changed it in the previous post,

i did past-copy and did not cancel the +ph:ohgeez:
 
This will probably sound stupid, but...

Have you tried doing a factory reset?
 
juplin said:
Then, try another test by using 1.5V primary battery Panasonic R1NT (UM-5NT) which should be available at same outlets selling 1.5V AA or AAA primary batteries.
In order to load 1.5V primary battery Panasonic R1NT (UM-5NT) into LF3XT, please refer to the last photo of the following post:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=2609596&postcount=96
Your LF3XT powered by 1.5V battery will be lighted, if this LF3XT is normal.
Click to expand...

Are you telling him to put AA batteries in a CR123 light???
 
no, he didnt (he suggested R1NT-battries), but i tryed it and they do not fit
 
albino said:
no, he didnt (he suggested R1NT-battries), but i tryed it and they do not fit
Click to expand...
What I suggested is to determine if the boost converter of the LF3XT in question is dead and turn this LF3XT into direct driving. The symptom that the brightness of this LF3XT powered by 3.0V primary CR123 battery is less than one half of original brightness, as is stated in the original post, might be caused by direct driving of 3.0V primary CR123 battery.
1.5 V R1NT-battery can not light up LF3XT under direct driving, but can light up LF3XT with normal boost converter.

To test with 1.5 V R1NT-battery, rubber (i.e. bicycle tube, or equivalent paper) must wrap around R1NT-battery and magnets (or equivalent metal conductor as extender) must be added to the bottom of this battery to simulate the dimensions of normal CR123A battery, by referring to the cited post and photo.
 
Last edited:
juplin said:
What I suggested is to determine if the booting circuit of the LF3XT in question is dead and turn this LF3XT into direct driving. The symptom that the brightness of this LF3XT powered by 3.0V primary CR123 battery is less than one half of original brightness, as is stated in the original post, might be caused by direct driving of 3.0V primary CR123 battery.
1.5 V R1NT-battery can not light up LF3XT under direct driving, but can light up LF3XT with normal booting circuit.

To test with 1.5 V R1NT-battery, rubber (i.e. bicycle tube, or equivalent paper) must wrap around R1NT-battery and magnets (or equivalent metal conductor as extender) must be added to the bottom of this battery to simulate the dimensions of normal CR123A battery, by referring to the cited post and photo.
Click to expand...

Hi Juplin. Are you suspecting he is having the same problem like what you post in the my3c.com?
 
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