true warm led's

[mwhens]

I'am building a flashlight with p7 leds.
These are cool white ones. They are perfect for my flashlight project, but I don't want them for my interieur lighting.

I bought some cheap warm white led bulbs from ebay to see how nice the light looks.
But it's disapointing.
The bulbs with 20, 40, 60 and 80 warm bulbs are not really warm white.
More a yellow-green color.
The highpower led bulb (3x1Watt) are a little better with less green, but they are not really warm collored.
I have a halogen desk light, really nice warm collor, not green at all. But I like to use highpower leds for my future interieur.

I just bought a new home, and needs allot of work. I want to use allot of highpower WARM white leds for indirect lighting.

Before I go spend a fortune on different leds and drivers to find good WARM white leds, does someone know a good warm collored led thats not yellow-greenish. But more of a quality warm collor.

Maybe someone has experience with seoul power leds?
Or of a different brand, or may be even smd led strips.

I want to PWM control all lighting with an arduino (microcontroller).
Does someone know if PWM control has any negative effects as interieur lighting?
We can't see it flicker, but maybe we feel some effect of it?

Thanks for all advice!

 

[dirtech]

I punched a ssc p4 at 3000 k from mouser that has a wonderful warm tint. Ordering one was costly with shipping. It reminds me very much of my surefire incandescent drop in and is one of my favorite drop ins.

No idea on your other ?'s.

 

[LEDninja]

:welcome:

Where are you? 115VAC or 230VAC country?

Stop buying from ebay. Buy proper light bulbs! You get what you pay for.
Those multiLED bulbs from eBay last 6 months to a year before they dim to the point you have to replace them. Properly built power LED types last 25000 to 35000 hours - 4 years 24/7, 16 years 6 hours daily. Look for the CSA/UL/ ETA logo to make sure they meet minimum safety standards.

For true warm white:
Philips 12w Teardown (~$40)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?308557-Philips-12w-Teardown
EcoSmart 40 watt LED (<$20)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?284926-EcoSmart-40-watt-LED
Zetalux 2 standard and pro (~$20-$35)
There is a picture of the Philips 8W remote phosphor bulb at the bottom of the '2nd post'. That is the warmest LED bulb I got.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?307285-Zetalux-2-standard-and-pro

Pics of HD EcoSmart 65W (Cree Cr6) light engine (~$50)
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...cs-of-HD-EcoSmart-65W-(Cree-Cr6)-light-engine
Search 'Ecosmart LED downlight' at home depot.com. There is a video showing installation and tint comparison.

BEWARE BUILDING YOUR OWN.
When you mod a flashlight the worst that happens is a burnt out LED or no light.
When you built your own house lights you can burn down your house if you do not know what you are doing. See
Cheap drivers cost more in the long run.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?311668-Cheap-drivers-cost-more-in-the-long-run.
It does not pay to go cheap.

 

[DM51]

Moving this to Fixed Lighting...

 

[egghead2004]

Yeah, be careful if you build your own. But if you know how then check these out in the picture. The color is so much more vibrant than CFLs.
These are Bridgelux 241, 4 watt @ 700mA. They say they are 3000 Kelvin, but look a little whiter.
I just bought some Bridgelux 261s, they seem more warm.
Bridgelux can be seen at Newark.com. Just do a search on bridgelux LEDs

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?296623-Kitchen-Lighting-Bridgelux-vs.-SSC-P4-Z4-1W&p=3561645#post3561645

 

[deadrx7conv]

If you're building your own lights, many successful projects by various members posted here. Read through the threads.
Ebay lights are typically hit or miss(ok ok, always miss :grin2:) when it comes to quality.

Look for high-CRI LED's as I'm betting that is what you'd want indoors. LEDs with a CRI >85 are a good start. You'll have to look at the datasheet form from the LED manufacturer.. Citizen, Cree, Seoul, Phillips, Osram, Edison, Nichia, Sharp, Bridgelux, Avago, Luminus....

 

[blasterman]

Bridgelux, Cree, and Rebel all have flavors of warm white that are perfect for interiour lighting. Bridgelux go up to insane power levels, although their warm-white isn't quite as warm as tungsten. The green cast you are encountering is from cheap Chinese LED's. None of the top end LED's I listed have this issue and will produce superb light for your living room. some really old Cree's tend to turn blue off axis, but those are mostly out of the system.

Mean Well 48P driver is PWM compatible I believe.

 

[LEDninja]

The SSC-P7 may not be a good LED for home lighting.
First a bit of history.
Lumileds came out with the first power LEDs the LuxI and LuxIII. They are rated for 50,000 hours. To get more brightness Lumileds put 4 of the dies in one package. There is now a problem - the dies are not identical and more current goes through one die than the other 3 causing premature burnout. The LuxIV was only rated for 500 hours a lot less than 50,000 hours.
Not a problem in a flashlight as a flashlight is rarely used more than 500 hours. Even if it dies after 500 hours people would not mind replacing it after 250 battery changes.
In a house bulb the LED would not last much longer than an incandescent bulb. The SSC-P7 is built similar to the LuxIV and may also have an unacceptable life for home lighting.

In a torch the LED is often driven as hard as it can for maximum brightness. Lifetime of the LED is not a priority.
In home lighting life of the bulb is a priority. Note the 3*1W bulb you have. Each LED is run at 1W or ~350mA for long life. CPF members regularly drive the same types of LED to 1400 mA or 4-5W in their flashlight mods.
The need to under-drive instead of overdriving means you will need more LEDs than you may originally think.

The SSC-P7 have a big advantage over the other LEDs in a basic flashlight mod - it has soldering tabs. Most other power LEDs are surface mount reflow soldering types. To get around this you can buy them pre-mounted on stars. Solder to the stars, attach the star to a heatsink.
LEDs make heat and heat kills LEDs. So you need heat-sinking. Not just the little piece of copper connecting the LED to your 3D Maglite but a piece of metal with the same surface area as your Maglite.

Now to some LEDs.
I am not familiar with the Bridgelux which is very popular in the fixed lighting forum. You already have 2 recommendations for that.
Cree MC-E: Also a 4 die LED but you can wire the dies in series to make sure they all get the same current. 350mA at 14V.
Cree XM-L. A single big die with performance similar/slightly better than the SSC-P7. 1.4A at 3.5V.

Now to tints.
Most manufacturers call anything warmer than 5000°K warm. A 60W light bulb is 2700°K, That results in a lot of different tints called warm. It is best to look for a colour temperature or bin rather than warm white or soft white.
Here is the SSC pure white chart.

There is a warm white one here (its listed under SSC P4) You can also look up Bridgelux, Cree, Luxeon etc.:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...nd-Vf-Charts-and-Links-for-Popular-White-LEDs
This is the ANSI standard chart:

 

[mwhens]

Thanks for all your comments,
I could not reply sooner, I'am verry bussy with my new home.

I understand those ebay bulbs are a waste.

A big priority for me is the use of PWM.
All light in the house will be PWM controld by Arduino, that makes a 5v PWM signal.

Ready to use bulbs with 230v 60hz are not a good option for me. It's not a good way to PWM the 230v current with a solid state relais/mosfet as far as I know.
Thats why I use on my flashlight a led driver with pwm signal input.

Because I need to replace all 230v wiring in my new home, I can add some extra wires so everywhere will 12 or 24v be available.

I'am looking for an easy to use system that uses 12 or 24v, and a single 5v PWM signal wire.
So all lighting will work on three wires. The leds need to be "strong", easy to mount on heatsinks, or led and premounted heatsink.
And a good quality led driver with PWM input that work with 12 or 24v.
And if posible, a single led driver that can run two or more leds in series.
Safety is also verry important, heatsinks should be more than big enough, and drivers need to be housed properly.

So what are good options for me to try out before I buy 50 of them...

"dirtech" mention the ssc p4 led bought from mouser. I searched on mouser (new to this site) and found 280 ssc led products!
And the products are not named like p4, but confusing product codes. I found this 3000k ssc led http://nl.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Seoul-Semiconductor/N42180-06-T1-HL/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsgllGlynFdfoIfWmDAlYuJHhQEaBKchwg%3d
I'am not sure this is a P4 led. It is 3000K, but only produces 72 lumen and uses 3.28W. This is not a efficient light as far as I know.
100 lumen/watt are verry efficient leds right?
I can find allot of leds on mouser, but verry hard to find the best one for me.
I also found this ssc 3000K led http://nl.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...GAEpiMZZMsgllGlynFdflACPGYcm20YMZQW%2bMH41c4=
this one produces 145 lumen for 3.3W, better, but still not so bright and efficient.
Here another 3000K ssc led http://nl.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...=sGAEpiMZZMsgllGlynFdfgQfot8xfP4eb66my5v551I=
This produces 215 lumen for 3.3W, a little better.
This has an premounted star, good to work with, but cost 4watt, only produces 145 lumen http://nl.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...=sGAEpiMZZMsgllGlynFdfgQfot8xfP4e3L2LIFnvIyc=
And strange, I can't find bright ssc leds on mouser, no P7 found, whats wrong here?
Can someone tell me what the best/most populair ssc led's are for home lighting?

"LEDninja" mention all-in-one solutions in a bulb, they can't be PWM controled as far as I know.
You also mention to use good led drivers for safety. I'am searching for those.
I came acros http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-51/Mean-Well-LPC-dsh-60-dsh-1050-constant/Detail
this does work on 230v 60hz, but I don't think it has a PWM input.
Maybe this one as a PWM input? http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-41/Mean-Well-ELN-dsh-60-dsh-48D-dimmable/Detail
That one also use 24v, but runs ~8-14 LEDs? Not less than 8?

"egghead2004" mentions bridgelux leds. I found this one... http://www.newark.com/bridgelux/bxra-w0260-00000/led-high-brightness-warm-white/dp/60R6544
Seems nice. 3700K, 295 lumen, 350 or 600mA, 12,6V is really high, some kind of array?
I also found these stars... http://www.newark.com/bridgelux/bxra-w0402-00000/led-high-brightness-warm-white/dp/60R6546
460 lumen, 3700K, 700 or 1500mA, 9V.
bridgelux led may be the high quality nice collored leds I'am looking for.
But what are good led drivers for these? Can they work on 12, 24 or 48v?
At newark they point out this led driver as accessorie, http://www.newark.com/roal-electronics/rldd015l-600/7-2w-dimmable-led-driver/dp/69R7349
But this drivers runs on 90-135v? only 7.2W, so no more than 2 leds on one driver, and they cost 39,60!
They also point out a heatsink, cost 25,15! http://www.newark.com/advanced-thermal-solutions/atseu-077c-c4-r0/heat-sink/dp/15P1117

I may going to use these stock intel heatsinks for cooling my powerleds, I already use one with a p7 led (not for interieur lighting, but for reflector tests).

"blasterman" you mention the Mean well ELN-60-48P driver, seems like a nice driver that uses 24 or 48v.
http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-26/Mean-Well-ELN-dsh-60-dsh-48P-dimmable/Detail
And has a PWM input for Arduino's and other microcontrollers.
Current can be set between 0 and 1.3A.
So you can run all kinds of leds on these, and the driver looks like a high quality one.
Safety first, my new home is mostly wood, this driver may be the on I'am looking for.
I could use these with P4, cree and bridgelux leds?

"LEDNINJA" thanks again for your information!

Thank you all!

 

[blasterman]

The Mean Well 48p is insanely popular in reefing forums where we couple it will all kinds of LED's, and it's a fully certified and regulated driver as far as I know. I've driven everything from Bridgelux C1202 monsters to 350mA 1watt LEDs with them, although I typically use the 'D' versions. It's probably the least expensive and most popular driver for doing this with the most 'hands on' documentation, although like I said reefing forums are where it's most popular.