Interesting topic. I see a proliferation or LED linear T8 tube and non-replaceable fixtures available, some at low
prices. I presume you mean ac line powered. Here's a rundown of what I know.
(1) Linear LED tubes in regular balasted fixtures have hit-and-miss compatibility, by first-hand experience.
Reliable operation with direct-wire (self-balasted) T8 tubes with correct fixture. "Hybrid" tubes are available but
seems to be a small efficacy hit and slightly higher cost than non-balasted.
(2) Increasing number of strips/fixtures are designed with LEDs which cannot be replaced. Personally I am avoiding this
trend as even if the operating lifetime is to be believed, the whole fixture is tossed at the end. Keep in mind that
common measure of end-of-life for LEDs, unless something outright fails, is decrease in brightness to 70%.
Another issue is if you want to change the brightness/tint later, can't do without replacing the whole
fixture. With replaceable tubes, at least there are options.
(3) With LED T8 tubes, if you go that way, expect 100-120 lumens/watt typically. Old fluorescents
were not all that bad compared to incandescent; typically 75 lumens/watt.
(4) Can't say what CRI is for most regular retail T8 LED or fixture lights as they typically don't give it
up-front in specs or on the tubes; but I think 95+ is dreaming a bit unless you buy specialty,
which will cost more.
(5) 2700-3000K and 5000K for LEDs appear common, less so 4000K. Also, can't comment on
blue peak.
On my workbench and electronics bench I use individual 5000K bulbs with reflector, or small
spots, which can be pointed to concentrate light. Some combo of fixed with pointable might work
for some. These days 100W equivalent LED is only 12-14W.
(6) How much light do you need (lumens) or is that TBD? Some LED tubes have lower output than
legacy T8 fluorescent e.g. 2100 lumens (17-19W) v. 2400 (32W), though better efficacy.
Dave
