Ultra Stinger Mod Help

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maddog

Enlightened
Joined
Feb 18, 2004
Messages
200
hi,

looking for some Ultra Stinger Mods.

did a search and it seems that the last time someone has posted anything on the Ultra Stinger seems to be 3-4 years ago. anyone done anything with these since then?

thanks,
brandt
 
hi,

looking for some Ultra Stinger Mods.

did a search and it seems that the last time someone has posted anything on the Ultra Stinger seems to be 3-4 years ago. anyone done anything with these since then?

thanks,
brandt
Some people use WA1160 for short run which is good improvement in brightness but you need to bend bulb pins in order to fit.
Long periodic run may cause switch melting.


Try 5671 or that 4.8 volt wa bulb.

5761 won't fit and 4.8 volt will burn out using US stock battery.
 
Go with the stock lamp and invest in some high capacity NiMh battery packs. Google Ultra Stinger batteries and or generic Ultra Stinger packs, you should come up with some hits for after market packs. For a beautiful beam you might look for an older Super Stinger body, and the Streamlight Ultra head that fits it and the stock Stinger. The Ultra head will have a fully LOP reflector finish. (typing in the dark, I changed font?)

Bill
 
Last edited:
I have one modded with a WA1160. Very bright.

However, you must replace the plastic window with glass, which is not easy. The plastic will melt after a few minutes.

Big thing is that the switch is just not up to the task. I am on my third switch and am going back to the stock lamp. Still makes a great light.

Mark
 
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I have one modded with a WA1160. Very bright.

However, you must replace the plastic window with glass, which is not easy. The plastic will melt after a few minutes.

Big thing is that the switch is just not up to the task. I am on my third switch and am going back to the stock lamp. Still makes a great light.

Mark

Interesting. I wonder if the switch can be modded for lower resistance?

Bill
 
I have one modded with a WA1160. Very bright.

However, you must replace the plastic window with glass, which is not easy. The plastic will melt after a few minutes.

Big thing is that the switch is just not up to the task. I am on my third switch and am going back to the stock lamp. Still makes a great light.

Mark

What gave out. The switch fail, or heat from bulb melt switch? Wonder if one of those mica shields that ginseng sold several years ago would work.

Bill

Bill
 
cool .... thanks everyone for the information.

here's a few more questions. =o)

is there any Glass replacement lens? was wondering because there is a thread on this but it's like 4 years old. i figure someone must has made a drop in one by now???

is it OK to leave a charged light on the charger constantly? and if not, can i just leave it in the charging cradle un-plugged? or would that drain the battery?


thanks again for all your help.

brandt
 
If you are going to leave the battery pack in the charger use NiCd cells, which can tolerate some over charging. Unpluged, I guess is ok, as there should be no drain on pack. If left plugged in and power goes out, the pack will probably get drained.

Bill
 
is it OK to leave a charged light on the charger constantly? and if not, can i just leave it in the charging cradle un-plugged? or would that drain the battery?


thanks again for all your help.

brandt

For same reason that you can not read any voltage with multimeter at charging contacts, it is OK to leave flashlight in cradle unplugged. An internal diod inside switch will let the current flow from charger to batteries (when plugged) but will stop current flow from batteries to out when unplugged.
This is to prevent any accidental short circuit when charging contacts physicaly touches to metal objects such as tools.
Many other rechargeable flashlights such as Stinger, Strion and M*gcharger have similar feature.
Leaving a fully chrged up flashlight on charger for short period of time is Ok but not adviced for days or weeks.
Overcharging harm for higher capacity of batteries is less because standard charger charges standard battery @ C/10 while this rete is C/20 for double capacity battery.
 
What gave out. The switch fail, or heat from bulb melt switch? Wonder if one of those mica shields that ginseng sold several years ago would work.

Bill

Bill

I think that the greatly increased current is both too much for the contacts and the additional heat is more than the internal plastic bits can handle.

The switch stops clicking and feels mushy. I don't really think there is anything you can do to prevent this. At $15 or more for a switch it gets expensive and your failed light can leave you in the dark at an inconvenient time.

Mark
 
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