Using Plasti-dip / Plasti-cote

[xevious]

I finally got around to trying out some Plasti-dip on my L0D-Q4. I coated just the head section, starting from the knurling forward. I used tape to cover the lens. This stuff works great! It's deceptive at first... you think that it's going to be something that peels off rather easy. It's extremely flexible and tight on the light, like super shrink wrap. I'm hoping it is durable. I covered the head to guard against chips from head down drops onto hard gritty surfaces. I'll see if I can post picks later on.

Anyone else use this stuff?

 

[LED-holic]

Never heard of it. Wherer do you get this? Would love to see some pix.

Also I wonder how it will affect the cooling, since it could potentially thermally isolate the aluminum head and prevent proper heat dissipation.

 

[cave dave]

Save the outside but fry the LED? No thanks.

 

[alphazeta]

Do you carry your LOD with your keys? My experience with plasticdip is that it doesn't take cuts too well with sharp objects.
Perhaps multiple light coats will make it more durable but, personally I don't like how it looks when it wears and wouldn't bother with in on a light. I've used it mostly to coat metal handles on tools.

Also, the unused portion of it tends to solidify in it's container due to the air. If possible, it's best to pour the rest into a smaller glass container where you have as little space left for air as possible.
-AZ

 

[bfg9000]

Plasti-dip seems to work best (at least on tool handles) when mixed as 3 parts Plasti-dip with 1 part pumice grit. The result is very similar to the grippy handles on current Craftsman pliers.

 

[rala]

i've been using plastidip since the early nineties. mostly for color coding my tools and adding grip. has worked very well since the first time i tried it. although the results are passable I wouldn't recommend the spray can variation for anything going to be used regularly because it would peel no matter how much prepping i did to the surface to be covered.

 

[xevious]

I bought Plasti-dip at Home Depot. Not expensive, from what I remember (less than $10 a can). Definitely get the dip, not the spray, as you'll have more control over application. This stuff seems extremely tough. After several coats, I think it'll be able to resist being gouged and scraped off from gentle rubbing against sharp objects (like keys).

For an LED light with moderate to low output (e.g. L0D-Q4 puts out just 75 lumens), I think that the coating will have a negligible effect on cooling. I didn't coat the entire head--just from the start of knurling forward. I also coated the bottom end. The ends are where lights get chipped the most. I'll try to get up some photos this weekend.

 

[Gene]

I also have used Plasti-Dip for years, mainly on old knife handles for a more secure grip. You need to apply multiple coats, (I do 3 minimum), for it to last. Let each dip dry completely before going on to the next. It works pretty good but will defintely gouge and mark over time. It will also dry out somewhat over time and I've found that occasionally rubbing it with a green 3M scouring pad with dish soap and water will smooth it out some and help with the dryness.

 

[davidra]

The spray is marginal. It does peel off relatively easily. It's hard to get it sprayed so that there isn't an edge to peel back. And make sure you don't get it on threads.

 

[xevious]

Here's a few shots of my L0D-Q4 with Plasti-dip applied. I did the tail section first as a test. This was the second coating attempt (I yanked off the first). I still did it a little too thick, so the surface isn't perfectly smooth. I had better luck with the head, as I began to get used to the idea of doing several thin coats rather than one thick coating. Why do this? It seems to me that most lights experience chips/scratches on the edging. I figured this would help guard against the usual blemishes. I had one small nick on the head from a drop onto pavement--shouldn't happen going forward with the coating. Plus, if I ever want to take this stuff off, it removes cleanly (once you get the peeling going; it's super tough material).

I covered the lens with thick clear tape to keep it clear, then peeled it off afterwards. It was harder to remove than I thought--had to use an exacto-knife with firm pressure to trim the rubber. It's not easy, as the rubber is mighty tough. In hindsight, a perfect seal isn't necessary--probably a small disc of some material with a little adhesive applied to hold it in place is all that is needed, and easier to trim off. All-in-all, I like the result. The light can still tail stand too.

Coating on head from start of knurling forward. I don't use the light on high power for long periods, so I'm not worried about overheating. I think there's still plenty of heat dissipation.

Light tail stands without a problem. I cut the rubber from the groove and used an awl through the hole for the ring/lanyard.

 

[LED-holic]

Looks good. I use racquet tape on a few of my lights to provide additional grip and impact protection.

 

[xevious]

Plasti-dip seems to work best (at least on tool handles) when mixed as 3 parts Plasti-dip with 1 part pumice grit. The result is very similar to the grippy handles on current Craftsman pliers.

Where do you get the pumice grit? Also, when mixing a small amount with Plasti-dip, are you then applying it with a brush? So far I've just dunked my lights right into the Plasti-dip can.

 

[bfg9000]

It's available in places that sell sandblasting or tumbling media, or soapmaking supplies. I mix it right into the whole can because I prefer the highly textured finish over the shiny vinyl look on just about everything. And it hides flaws/scratches in the coating better too.

 

[kaichu dento]

Lately I've been thinking about putting some shrink-wrap tape on the tail end of both my L0D Q4 and D10 so that I can hold them in my teeth without biting right onto the metal.

Winter's coming too and I don't like having my lips on aluminum at -40 below!

Now having seen this thread I'm up in the air as to whether to go with the shrink-wrap or the plasti-dip.

 

[xevious]

Lately I've been thinking about putting some shrink-wrap tape on the tail end of both my L0D Q4 and D10 so that I can hold them in my teeth without biting right onto the metal.

Winter's coming too and I don't like having my lips on aluminum at -40 below!

Now having seen this thread I'm up in the air as to whether to go with the shrink-wrap or the plasti-dip.

Heat shrink tubing would be better for an EDC.

After a few weeks of carrying around my L0D-Q4 in the front pants pocket, I'm noticing that the rubber is starting to get worn off from pocket rubbing (not all the way through, but there are "matte" spots on the edging). I don't think it would matter how many layers you apply--it will inevitably wear off. If the light is carried in a holster or in a manner that would avoid frequent rubbing, the Plasti-dip works pretty well. I applied it to the bezel edging on my Olight T20 and it looks the same as it did 3 weeks ago (I use it almost nightly, stowed in my car armrest hard compartment--no padding)

I'll bet shrink tubing has greater rub resistance, making it more durable for pocket carry.

 

[Tekno_Cowboy]

I've got a couple lights I had the local spray-in beliner company coat for me, with the extra from a truck bed. It seems to hold up fairly well to abuse, and the shop was willing to do it for practically nothing.

 

[Dez]

Heat shrink tubing would be better for an EDC.

After a few weeks of carrying around my L0D-Q4 in the front pants pocket, I'm noticing that the rubber is starting to get worn off from pocket rubbing (not all the way through, but there are "matte" spots on the edging). I don't think it would matter how many layers you apply--it will inevitably wear off. If the light is carried in a holster or in a manner that would avoid frequent rubbing, the Plasti-dip works pretty well. I applied it to the bezel edging on my Olight T20 and it looks the same as it did 3 weeks ago (I use it almost nightly, stowed in my car armrest hard compartment--no padding)

I'll bet shrink tubing has greater rub resistance, making it more durable for pocket carry.

My D10 is covered with 19mm shrink tubing on the body and a thinner tubing for the clip.
Great for protection, makes it silent when I put it on a table and soft for biting.

Hehe, and it looks a bit "german" if you know what I mean.. :naughty:

 

[Locoboy5150]

Hehe, and it looks a bit "german" if you know what I mean...

"Now is the time on Sprockets when we dance!"

Sorry...I couldn't resist the SNL reference. I haven't seen the show since those days though.

 

[bltkmt]

I just bought a can of this stuff to play around with. So far I have dipped the about half of my 4Sevens mini AA...a great light for tooth holding. Looking for other uses for this intriguing product...

 

[bltkmt]

Has anyone tried the brush-on version yet? Far right in pic below. It seems it would be easier to apply to a light, but not sure.



http://www.plastidip.com/img/photos/plasti1.jpg


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