V10r DIY repair, is it dead?

[Kingnog]

I have a Sunwayman V10r (and V11r), both have served me well for many years.

The V10r would intermittently work. Meaning, click the tail switch and the light comes on, next time click the tail switch and nothing happens. Sometimes I would "tap" it against my hand and it would come on and stay on.

Well, now no matter what I do it doesn't turn on, not even a flicker!

I did the following:
1. Put V10r head on V11r body, doesn't come on, whereas it used to work before
2. Disassembled everything, soaked in isopropanol and let dry overnight, regreased/repacked control ring, doesn't come on
3. New battery (of course), doesn't come on
4. Bang against hand and lightly tapped on hard surface (kitchen counter), doesn't come on.

The wiring seems to be soldered on very well, nothing loose.

Any ideas what could have gone wrong?

 

[Noctiluco]

I have several sunwayman with magnetic ring and so far only one has failed me, which is not V10 or V11, but a V20C. It worked fine at low intensity but would flicker and eventually turn off at high intensity. my attempts to repair it were unsuccessful.

 

[jon_slider]

sorry your V10r died

I have heard of a few Sunwayman Rotaries that have stopped turning on. I have not heard of any cause, nor solution, and I do not think replacement drivers are available.

the only solution I might consider, if your V10r is Titanium (or you prefer the form factor like I do), would be to sacrifice the V11r as a driver donor.

I am a big fan of rotaries
left V11r, right V10r with trit fins from V10r Ti

 

[glockboy]

Maybe the tail switch die.

 

[Lynx_Arc]

Maybe the tail switch die.

+1 This. Always check for failing tailcaps. When I have lights that won't work right I always rig up a way to connect power directly to the driver board bypassing even the body of the light if possible to rule that out too. I've had junk lights that acted up and after sanding and grinding the aluminum tubes and copper contacts on boards I got them to work almost reliably.

 

[Noctiluco]

It shouldn't be the switch because Kingnog has already tested that.

A few days ago I wrote an email to Sunwayphoto.com (Sunwayman no longer exists) but they responded saying that they did not have replacement drivers for V20C.

I tried to change the last capacitor arranged in series before the led; I replaced the standard one (whose value I did not know) for one of 10 uf, but it continued to function incorrectly, without reaching the maximum level; I replaced it again with another 22 uf, and the intensity reached the maximum, but after two seconds the flickering began and ended up turning off.

I got some idea from a Budget Light Forum thread but actually, I was blindly trying to fix it.

Currently my V20C is dead.

https://budgetlightforum.com/node/63943

 

[Kingnog]

Maybe the tail switch die.

+1 This. Always check for failing tailcaps. When I have lights that won't work right I always rig up a way to connect power directly to the driver board bypassing even the body of the light if possible to rule that out too. I've had junk lights that acted up and after sanding and grinding the aluminum tubes and copper contacts on boards I got them to work almost reliably.

Yeah it's not the tail switch, I tried it on a V11r body and it doesn't turn on anymore (it used to work).

 

[jon_slider]

it doesn't turn on anymore (it used to work).

grasping at straws
1. if it is failing on primaries, try LiIon..

2. do a continuity test on the LED.. if no glow, reflow new LED

 

[glockboy]

Try using the Multimeter continuity test to test the switch if it connect.
Or using the paper clip to test the neg of the battery to the flashlight body, if the light on, the switch die.

 

[jon_slider]

Try using the Multimeter continuity test to test the switch

he tested with a new switch that is known to be working (that is on the body of a V11r), and the V10r head still did not work. That is how we know the V10r switch is not the problem.