V3 Regulated Triple Discussion Thread

[ejot]

AS for 1fc = 10.8 lux at any distance? That makes sense, but the question was how LUMEN ratings matched up to FC ratings.

Yes I know, that's what I was answering when I said you can't determine luminous flux (LUMENS) from a single illuminance measurement (FC, or LUX).

I'd love to see the relative difference between 1x18650 vs 2xIMR in your sphere, based on Dan's description I would expect a jump more like 33% in total flux. You can find meters that do 200k lux pretty cheap. :naughty:

 

[easilyled]

I'm very pleased with the V3 3-level-cool-white drop-in that arrived today.

It went straight into my Oveready stealth custom-black-HA C3 with black-steel crenelated bezel and zero resistance tailcap.

I am using 2 AW 18500 li-ions and the output is very impressive.

Does anyone know whether using 2 AW IMR 18500s would make any difference to the output?

 

[run4jc]

Does anyone know whether using 2 AW IMR 18500s would make any difference to the output?

Hopefully someone who has more knowledge than I have will answer - but I can speak to the measurable, but more importantly, NOTICEABLE difference going from 1 AW 18650 2600mAh to 2 AW 16340 550mAh IMRs. I measured 23% increase on my meter, but outside in real use this morning the difference was dramatic - especially on lo and medium.

So to add to Daniel's question, would 1 IMR18650 provide more output than 1 'plain' 18650? Oveready has 1600mAh AW IMR18650 batteries in stock...
:devil:

 

[ejot]

Hopefully someone who has more knowledge than I have will answer - but I can speak to the measurable, but more importantly, NOTICEABLE difference going from 1 AW 18650 2600mAh to 2 AW 16340 550mAh IMRs. I measured 23% increase on my meter, but outside in real use this morning the difference was dramatic - especially on lo and medium.

So to add to Daniel's question, would 1 IMR18650 provide more output than 1 'plain' 18650? Oveready has 1600mAh AW IMR18650 batteries in stock...
:devil:

It needs 2xLiIon voltage for full regulation, so I *think* any one-cell configuration (eg, 1x18650, 1xIMR18650) will have the "noticeably less" output than any proper two-cell configuration (eg, 2xIMR16340).
Just my guess though ....

 

[run4jc]

Makes perfect sense to me - it's very noticeable how much brighter my triple is on all three levels using 2 IMR16340s versus that one 18650....

 

[easilyled]

Makes perfect sense to me - it's very noticeable how much brighter my triple is on all three levels using 2 IMR16340s versus that one 18650....

The only drawback is that the runtime would be pretty short at that very much brighter level because of the low capacities of the IMR16340s. Also, because they're unprotected, I'd imagine it would be easy to run them until they're depleted to the point of no return.

 

[run4jc]

The only drawback is that the runtime would be pretty short at that very much brighter level because of the low capacities of the IMR16340s. Also, because they're unprotected, I'd imagine it would be easy to run them until they're depleted to the point of no return.

Totally agree. The nice thing for me is that I use the light primarily for an early morning dog walk that takes me about 20-25 minutes. I run it mostly on medium, but jump around to high when I want mega bright or just want to giggle uncontrollably at how bright the darn thing is!!

This morning I measured the 2 IMRs after the aforementioned walk and one read 3.89 and the other 3.9, so I think I'll be fine as long as I charge them after each walk. I have several sets and I'll rotate them, too.

:thumbsup:

 

[Kestrel]

The thing is that 2x18500's have so much of an advantage over 1xIMR18650 or 2xIMR16340, ~double the capacity of the former and ~triple the capacity of the latter, for a light of only slightly greater length.

IMO the SF C3's (and to a letter extent, the 9P's) are a perfect match for this module.

My night walks are generally about an hour, so I'm at the ragged end of the runtime for 2x18500.

 

[nfetterly]

Okay - "home alone" with the dogs and took out the Macro lens and the Canon MKII camera for photo shoots of some lights - most of all the Moddoo / ElectronGuru "stuff". LOVE the triples.

After I post this I'm going to walk the dogs. What light will I take is the question?

I'm SOLD on the neutral tints. I found out the very cool tints in ABSOLUTE darkness (inside industrial facility with no power) give you very little depth perception - I was using a 6500K SST-50 (since sold) whereas my superintandant was using a mag charger. It was actually a bit scary. WOW - what a difference.

I'll post the photos them come back through and fill in comments.

I have to note - the bad thing about clickies is they can tun on fairly easily - you notice it a few minutes later I can tell you that.
The open holster by the chairback is for my camera.

First Version triple 3 level (think this is the warm one) - sniper grey cerakote.

Second version triple 3 level , 6P HAIII

As you will notice these both have the surefire clicky tails - and these won't be complete until Moddo finishes the Ti Tails with the slots for the BIG trits (& the three holes)...

Well this one could have been rotated a few degrees. Neutral Triple XPG Regulated (single level). My earlier triple got booted out of the cerakoted body and the A19 extender was added. McClicky in this one.

Neutral triple XPG three level. 9P HAIII & McClicky

M2-50 (neutral) & zero rez tail

Triples. I think I have one of each "version" with the exception of the direct drive XP-G.

Then with the M2-50 in the background

There is pulp (as in "pulp & paper") on some of the lights in the photo. I've EDC'd all of the lights at work with the exception of the XP-G triple 3 level (9P). My preference is really to carry the M2-50 in my back pocket for a "spot" and then I have a L1 based MC-E with a low & high for "flood" - the perfect combination.

However - the triples really create the "wall of light" - but not "soft" like a flood. So - a 3 level triple combined with the small laser on my keychain for pointing things out is also really "perfect"

The original 6P XP-E triples are very very nice for their size. When the Ti tails come in they will really be "the bomb"

 

[Bullzeyebill]

I'm SOLD on the neutral tints. I found out the very cool tints in ABSOLUTE darkness (inside industrial facility with no power) give you very little depth perception - I was using a 6500K SST-50 (since sold) whereas my superintandant was using a mag charger. It was actually a bit scary. WOW - what a difference.

Hard to beat a mag charger or streamlight Ultrastinger for throw and depth perception/contrast. That is one of my quandaries re cool LEDs vs incan, no matter what the output of either. It just seems that the closer to the CRI of incans the better the LED is for recognition at distance, or the more powerful the LED is + a nice tight beam there seems to be some parity between incans and LEDs. When I lived in the country I would compare both incan and LED, and the tighter the beam (lux) and the higher the lumens were the LED would do just fine and bring out the colors as well as the incans, but it took more lumens to match the incans. Just an observation on my part, and to note that 95% of my light are LED.

Bill

 

[Kestrel]

Wow, I haven't seen a lineup like that posted before - a CPF first. :thumbsup:

 

[nfetterly]

Wow, I haven't seen a lineup like that posted before - a CPF first. :thumbsup:

Thanks! I just wish I could have taken the picture outside - and if I had crenulated bezels on all of them it would have been easier to line them up. In general I think the photos came out pretty well.

 

[badtziscool]

What's the bin and tint for the XPG used in the warm version. When I first fired it up I thought it was the PERFECT tint. If I can have every led that color, I would be a happy man.

EDIT: I found a part of my answer. The tint is 4C. But is the XPG still an R5?

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/3432352&postcount=26

 

[ElectronGuru]

The tint is 4C. But is the XPG still an R5?

Good question. R5 is a brightness rating. The phosphors used to convert brightness into color (needed to create neutral), reduce output and rating:

Triple Cools are R5/1C or R5/1T (non selectable)

Triple Neutrals are R4/4C​

Were an R5/4C available, there would be little advantage to buying cool, and so little reason to produce them.

 

[Kestrel]

Has anyone measured the tailcap current for each of the three modes (H/M/L) for the multimode V3 w/ 2x LiIons yet?

 

[ElectronGuru]

Thought this might be useful to share:


Q) Is the Zero Rez upgrade beneficial for V3 Triple operation


A) A good way to think of electricity and wires is like water and pipes. Volts is the size of the pipe, amps is the pressure the water is under, and watts is how much water is actually getting moved to the other end.

So the LED(s) need a certain amount of watts/water. If you lower the volts by running from a single cell (smaller pipe), the only way to deliver the same amount of energy (watts/water) is by boosting the pressure/amps (water goes faster). But if you don't upgrade the pipes, they can't handle the extra pressure. So to with springs and switches. Lower the voltages and they either slow down the current or burst in the process.

The Zero Rez upgrade is designed for low voltage, high amperage setups, particularly single battery direct drive setups, like the V2 Triple or many SST configurations. The V3 Triple is high voltage (larger pipe) and regulated. It is does not need the high pressure capability of the ZR. The McClicky will provide as much power as the V3 needs to run full output.

 

[kellyglanzer]

Thought this might be useful to share:


Q) Is the Zero Rez upgrade beneficial for V3 Triple operation


A) A good way to think of electricity and wires is like water and pipes. Volts is the size of the pipe, amps is the pressure the water is under, and watts is how much water is actually getting moved to the other end.

So the LED(s) need a certain amount of watts/water. If you lower the volts by running from a single cell (smaller pipe), the only way to deliver the same amount of energy (watts/water) is by boosting the pressure/amps (water goes faster). But if you don't upgrade the pipes, they can't handle the extra pressure. So to with springs and switches. Lower the voltages and they either slow down the current or burst in the process.

The Zero Rez upgrade is designed for low voltage, high amperage setups, particularly single battery direct drive setups, like the V2 Triple or many SST configurations. The V3 Triple is high voltage (larger pipe) and regulated. It is does not need the high pressure capability of the ZR. The McClicky will provide as much power as the V3 needs to run full output.

That was very helpful for me. thank-you

 

[run4jc]

That was very helpful for me. thank-you

+1...good stuff....and makes perfect sense! :twothumbs

 

[9volt]

+1, thanks.

 

[Troop#26]

Thought this might be useful to share:


Q) Is the Zero Rez upgrade beneficial for V3 Triple operation


A) A good way to think of electricity and wires is like water and pipes. Volts is the size of the pipe, amps is the pressure the water is under, and watts is how much water is actually getting moved to the other end.

So the LED(s) need a certain amount of watts/water. If you lower the volts by running from a single cell (smaller pipe), the only way to deliver the same amount of energy (watts/water) is by boosting the pressure/amps (water goes faster). But if you don't upgrade the pipes, they can't handle the extra pressure. So to with springs and switches. Lower the voltages and they either slow down the current or burst in the process.

The Zero Rez upgrade is designed for low voltage, high amperage setups, particularly single battery direct drive setups, like the V2 Triple or many SST configurations. The V3 Triple is high voltage (larger pipe) and regulated. It is does not need the high pressure capability of the ZR. The McClicky will provide as much power as the V3 needs to run full output.

Fantastic information as usual. My question then becomes the following Dan:

Is there any advantage to running the ZR Mod with a V3 Tripple and a 18650 cell in a 2 cell host like the 6P?

Im guessing not as the unit does not switch into Direct Drive below say 4.5 volts.

This would be an interesting thing to consider in the future as you would cover 6P or similar design users with DD units for pocket rockets at 4.2 volts and below and 9P or similar design users with regulated output for those who want to use 2X18500.

I digress, with one 18650 to the V3 you are not delivering the same voltage or current hence the dimmer output (less watts). Im guessing there is something in the regulation circuit that will only allow it to draw "X" amps even at 4.2 volts (obviously lower under load, voltage stated just for argument sakes) and that is why we get the dimmer output as opposed to at 8.4 argumentative volts. That is to say it will draw 4A at 8.4 volts or 4A at 4.2 volts?

Sorry for the long-wided-ness, just trying to understand all this stuff!

Regards,

Stephen